Talk me out of it guys

[NoDirectionHome]

Ok here goes:

As Star Dreamer pointed out, you are potentially looking at a huge investment to bring your current truck up to a status that warrants the going forward with your plan. Only you can judge the true risk. Adding a used ARI Legacy would be pretty easy. Everyone is always "go for it" with other peoples money. You need to do your budgets honestly, then access what will you have and it's value when done, and what the alternative like buying a motorhome would cost.

Just telling you from the perspective of how I would do it, and offering an alternative point of view.

[Broncohauler]

Gary

Thank you for the link to your build that's just what I'm thinking about. Glad to see I'm not crazy with my floor plan idea and that it had worked.

If we move forward with this I maybe hitting you up for more info if that's ok?

 

Dolly weight is my biggest concern. I know my three axle can carry it. But have no idea how to decide on a wheel base keeping in mind the side door placement and I don't want to much tail swing. But also to big of a turning radius.

[usbusin]

Gary

 

If we move forward with this I maybe hitting you up for more info if that's ok?

 

 

No problem, I'll help you where I can.

 

GaryD

[Broncohauler]

Dave and Stekay

I totally agree that I really need to think about my trucks age and repair history. So here we go

The truck was bought new by Frazee Paint ( now Sherwin Williams

The truck spent it's whole life driving line haul from San Diego to Las Vegas fully loaded both ways. I drove a lot of those miles and know the couple other drivers that drove it very well.

I know it's full history from day one and the mechanics that worked on it.

 

1997 peterbilt 377A 3- axle

N14 cummins motor

10speed

Motor had a inframe at 1.2 million

1. 5 million miles on truck at The time of purchase

I have only driven the truck 8000 miles in the nine years that I've owned it hopefully that changes real soon.

 

At the time I bought the truck frazee paint did the following for me.

Rebuilt the transmission

Replaced the clutch

New turbo and after cooler

 

I put on new wheels

New tires

New brakes

Replaced cab airbags

Replaced suspension airbags

 

I know that there are still many small things that could go wrong and I'm prepared for that.

A newer truck would be nice but this truck is very simple and easy to work on so the age is a concern but then again not.

I'm more concerned about taking totally complete truck and tearing it apart to build it into something else.

Not sure what I would price it at if I was to sell it. but I know I could pick another truck up cheaper just wouldn't know it's history. And I think that's a bigger concern

[Dollytrolley]

Gary

Thank you for the link to your build that's just what I'm thinking about. Glad to see I'm not crazy with my floor plan idea and that it had worked.

If we move forward with this I maybe hitting you up for more info if that's ok?

 

Dolly weight is my biggest concern. I know my three axle can carry it. But have no idea how to decide on a wheel base keeping in mind the side door placement and I don't want to much tail swing. But also to big of a turning radius.

Bronc,

 

Indeed a "Project"..... is full of...... "choices"......and "choices" lead to......... "consequences".........and "consequences" are what we drive down the road .....of life......(wow, geezer eez)

 

Anyhow you know your truck like a OLD FRIEND and as such it has huge value to you.......

As I age to "become more closely-related-to-fossils"......I truly value simple and straight forward machinery and your truck is such a machine......do I need or want.......heated or cooled seats........NO...if I want a heated seat......I sit in it......if I want it cool...I don't sit in it......the point is that I used to sit in Zillion$$ machines for days and nights on end and watch all the "options" do things that were intended....not intended and once in a while tried to kill me so now that I have "options" as I geezer I often pass on most of the current "fad-options".......

 

Hang-in-there and .....dream......and scheme.......it's the spice of life.....

 

I'll PM you about your weight and balance concerns ..........

 

Drive on.........(Go pet your old......Friend / truck)

[NoDirectionHome]

Broncohauler, so you are really down to suspension radiator, hubs/spindles and differential gears as your only huge ticket items. I think I like your plan a lot better now. Get a bore scope and look at those gears. Hubs and spindle life is something I don't know, but fatigue life fully loaded is. I think you are pretty safe with your plan. I know about loving a truck, having been together a long time, and having a history together. Sentimental has a unique value.

[jkennell]

With what has been done, I'd be most concerned with cab structure with the mileage you talk about. Is the cab solid? Door hinges ok? Do the doors sag or the seals leak? Window seals? window glass crank system OK? All the things that are minor, but really annoying and PITA to fix. My '95 is solid mechanically, but the door and window seals are noisy...how annoying.

 

How about rubber cab mounts? Engine Mounts? I'd seriously consider replacing all that stuff.

 

Then I say GO FOR IT!

[Broncohauler]

Jeff, I replaced all the window seals last month.

When I bought the truck we removed the door panels for cleaning and also checked out and oiled the window crank on the driver side and inspected the air operated window on the passenger side. Door hinges appear to be fine latches are all good this is a California truck so there's no corrosion.

I had the truck painted into 2009 and all cab mounts and hood mounts were replaced at that time. 2 new windshields and seals,New headlights complete have also been installed, New front drop bumper installedand cab airbags twice. Not sure why they keep rotting out?

The air horns are removed and replaced with LED cab lights across the entire roof. Train horn hidden under the frame, new drop stainless steel visor the underside painted to match the truck, New driver and passenger seats. And a lot more that I can't even think about. we basically completely refurbished the entire truck top to bottom front to back.

I need to find out what's wrong with my photo bucket? When I click on the link to paste a picture it's not working but used to?

The truck is sound just scared to tear apart fully finished and painted truck and then cut the frame to stretch it.

[Bob86ZZ4]

I think there are enough used "Truck Conversions" (this is what yours will be if you build it, not a "Super C") for pennies on the dollar that would make more sense than building yours. There are lots of places to find them. I'd exhaust all avenues there before building that truck into a Truck Conversion. If you do decide to build yours after searching far and wide for one all ready to go, then I would do a ton of research on builders. There are lots of them around too. I am very opposed to your idea to not have a pass through from the cab to the living quarters. For one thing that alone will make it difficult to license as a motor home in some states (I think). The other is it's just too limiting. Several times we've brought friends/relatives on road trips in our Truck Conversion. You're idea would prevent that. Or at least it would make it very difficult and not nearly the fun of having everybody together and free to roam about and take turns sitting/lying down in various places.

Lastly, consider what's going to happen after you're done with it. Building your truck into a T/C will be VERY limiting on re-sale. Many (if not most) people in the market for a T/C will not consider one they have to row the gears. Most won't consider a floor plan like you describe. I sure don't want to offend you but I really feel strongly about this. I wholeheartedly support your plan to have a T/C pulling a short stacker. So I won't try to talk you out of that. I most often pull a 24' enclosed trailer and feel this is a great combo. Stacker would be more fun but too expensive for me.

[rickeieio]

Buy an Airstream and mount it on the frame. MH conversion complete. Easy to reverse later.

[Broncohauler]

Buy an Airstream and mount it on the frame. MH conversion complete. Easy to reverse later.

I very seriously consider doing that just to piss off the purist. But I really don't like the interior on airstreams.

[Broncohauler]

Bob86zz4,

I value your opinion very much and was hoping you would chime in. And yes Iknow it would be a T/C not a motorhome. I only put it that way so newbies would understand what I want to do.

I understand there are a lot out there. But I only want a Peterbilt. ( just a truck driver thing).

I've been checking a lot of places if you now of any I'm open.?

The other problem is what I see is just not clean enough while in my budget of under 100k.

As for builders I'm open for that to but want to stay as close to CA as I can to make it easier for me to be envolved in the whole build. If you know any please let me know.

 

As for the lay out. I want to retain the sleeper and put a couple air ride seats in for my grand kids and my dog. I'm ok with no pass thru because I really don't want people moving around its just not safe to me.

I agree about the pass thru and CA is a state that wants it our they call it a truck camper.

My reason for the layout, is I see a lot of class A guy's trying to nose in at the lake for a view but can't because of the hookups.

One of the hardest parts here is my truck as it's built now is I believe worth a lot more than I have in it. But if I build it I'll never come out a head because as you say it's a true truck and you do have to drive it.

 

All that said I'm not sure what to do and that's why I posted the ?? Here.

CA dmv is pulling my motor home plate, and I must go back to commercial making it very hard to have because of EPA laws.

My other option other than a T/C is to find or build a true toy hauler. Not a piece of wood on a lippert frame. But again affordable.

[OU812]

broncohauler ... I did a TC in 1999/ 2000 a 1998 Volvo 610, N14, 10 speed. 26 ft. all aluminum box, 248 wheel base, three axel, 8 K gen.. pull a 26 ft. all aluminum box 3 axel trailer. The plan is the most Important part of your project.. Build the TC the way YOU want it. It took me 11/2 year to finally have a plan we could live with. I tried to stay away from the RV parts house and use the hardware store as much a possible. After 180,000 miles, this spring I redone the insides, Had a pluming water leak and a tank leak yes.......all floor, sealing, walls, ect On the third day... I asked myself ...what the #####--------#### have you done". to late now. I changed the plan very little, but got to finished some things I didn't get to the first time. Took about 1 1/2 mouths, back on the road. We have plans to head south (AZ) this Jan./ Feb. If you have questions..... Well I can tell where I went wrong ,so maybe you won't have to learn like I did. Work on that floor plan, every inch counts, with what you want, best time you will spend. Pencil and paper and a big eraser. . Good luck OU812​

[Broncohauler]

Ou812 thank you ?

I really appreciate and respect everybody's opinion but especially yours and Bob86ZZ4 because you've already been through it.

I'll take any advice that you guys want to give me. And would love to know what you guys did and what you would do different.

Trust me I'd rather buy one already done but really have not found one in my price range which is cheap and is peterbilt thanks Charlie

[Dollytrolley]

Bronc.

 

High QUALITY is likely a bit spend'y on the front end (Pete) .......however..........High QUALITY (Pete) pays off big-time (Pete) over the...... Long-Haul ..........

 

Folks that deal with........"lesser-trucks' get "saving" on the front end............Pete-owners tend to get more smiles over the long haul......priceless....

 

Hard to explain to most folks about a truck that you have "invested".......+ 1 , 5 0 0, 0 0 0 miles into.........

 

K E E P the P E T E.....

 

Drive on.........(More smiles per.......miles)

[OU812]

Charli Well get you a big note book.. truck info.??...wheel base, wireing for lighrs, trailer plugin. fuel tanks location. paint frame. How is body/box going to connect to cab of truck, Cab is it air ride? Trailer hitch location to body/box....ect Body/box...??. size 26L X 8 1/2 W x 13H ???? walkin door location , windows, window covering in and out, lower storage boxes size, . gen. size and location, waste water tanks size, propain tanks size, tail lights location, How are you going to power the body/ box... land line power, gen power, solar panels..?? battery box size..2...4...6...8..?? What are you going to power up on 12v or 120v???? Electrical system alone will take a page or two. LED lights, oven, frig, heater, air conditioners ( I say two) plug ins, TV, computer deck couch, reclining chair.. Décor (O-boy) floor covering, walls, ceiling, counter top, cabinet design/color Next page water system.. hot water location/size and two or three way power, kitchen size/sink dabble or signal., frig size. If you do a lot of cooking.. counter space/pots and pans (cabinets)..... bathroom shower... 32 inch or 22 in??... stool, sink.....linen closet.. Next cabinets... never can have to many. uppers , kitchen lowers, bathroom uppers. closet...for hanger up close (always to small) bed size..... if you are tall maybe a 6 ft. bed won't work? There is a lot to put together, are you sure you want to build a TC???? How long do you want to boondock... or maybe you don't. But if you are a 4X4 type...... our not in a park...... Slide outs .. well are nice. (BUT) something else to go wrong. Hard to get around when they are in. We spend as much time out side as we can.....but some people like to hide in there motorhome. Now in the back of the note book... leave a few pages for building a trailer to pack the 12K or 16 K load + the trailer..... most trailers are plywood with tin put over them... if you are going to spend the money.... get something that will last and you can always get most of your money back. Just a few things to think about. Make notes and drawings to see if it will all work. THE PLAN I got to get a cold one OU812

[Bob86ZZ4]

I can appreciate your love of the Pete. But remember, this is going to be a motorhome. You're not going to be driving it all day every day. And, will a 18 year old 1.5m mile truck really be that much better than a 5ish year old 200k mile truck? I just find it hard to believe it would be. I also can appreciate your desire to row the gears. But, the vast majority of motorhome drivers would not ever consider buying a rig they have to row. So, if you're fine with knowing that the resale market would be almost nothing if you build your truck then go for it. I know you probably don't plan on selling it for a long time. But plans can, and often do, change. Sometimes we have no choice when life throws a curve ball at us. When I was shopping for my Truck Conversion I was open to a manual. Many of the cars I've owned over the years were manual and I don't mind shifting at all. My son is an owner/operator and he drives a '03 FLD with a straight 10. He told me not to consider a auto shift. The service manager at my nearby Kenworth dealer said the autoshift trans usually needs much less attention because drivers can't screw them up. From a durability standpoint he said get an autoshift. So, I searched for my rig with almost no concern for what trans it had. Very unusual for most shoppers. I ended up with my rig based on everything else. After 6 years and 50k miles I'm very happy with the autoshift. My son has driven my rig many many miles and he agrees it is nice not to have to shift. For a work truck and going from bobtail to 80+k lbs. he said he likes to row so he can pick the gear. For recreation driving a motorhome we both agree it's just fine not to have to row. And not having the stick coming out of the floor means there's a good place for the dog bed.

[Bob86ZZ4]

I like the plan to keep the sleeper. I was close to buying a TC that was built on a sleeper cab. They had put two jacknife sofas in the sleeper, facing each other. Folding them both down made a queen size bed. They had a removable table in the middle. It was a nice setup. Captains chairs would be nice too. Another one I looked at had the captains chairs and a fold down upper bunk. No matter what sleeper seating setup, you must have a walk through to the living quarters. Everybody will be much happier with the ability to move about. Don't worry about eliminating the air ride cab/sleeper. You're going to have a long frame and much more weight than a bobtail short wheelbase. It will ride just fine.

[Bob86ZZ4]

http://www.racingrvs.com/2006-RENEGADE-CORONADO-Brookville-OH-Indianapolis-South-Columbus-Cincinnati-Fayette/used_car/grx77DBxGrI%3d

 

That one looks pretty nice.

[Bob86ZZ4]

I'm guessing you've been watching Racingjunk: http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1253/Toterhomes-RVs-Motorhomes.html

[Broncohauler]

Thanks guys I have a lot to think about.

I do drive still (50-62 hours) a week. And before they gave me my new Volvo I- shift trust me my body and shoulder told me I'm done shifting gears.

But with the I-shift all the pain except my knees is gone.

I now really enjoy shifting again in my peterbilt.

If you know of a peterbilt or kenworth T/C under 100k I'm very interested.

 

I'm waiting for a bid from one of the companies I talked to and that will tell me a lot about going any further.

 

As for placement and decisions on cabinets chairs couches most of that's pretty much done. We really like our current trailer floor plan and are having the builder bid on copying that exact floorplan over.

Another option may be for him to build the box set all the plumbing and wiring and then take it to the trailer manufacturer which happens to be not more than an hour away. And have them finish it out since they already have all the cabinets chairs generator stove everything that would be needed on hand. Just a thought?

 

How are your frames built and mounted??

[Bob86ZZ4]

Oh oh, $100k is your budget? You're not going to be able to convert your truck for that. Does that mean your budget to buy a different truck is $120-130k since you'd be able to sell your Pete for $20-30k?

[Broncohauler]

The builder I'm talking to built a KW for my friend way under 100 k 8 years ago. So far he loves it but it's a 22 ft box he dose wish it was 24ft.

 

Not including the frame stretching it will be under hopefully way under but don't want to say anything until I see the bid.

I'm talking about a plan interior nothing high-end and most likely no slide in less I change the floor plan.

 

What due you guess for a ruff build number??

I'm open for a estimate on my truck bed. The current trailer in my area is selling around 30k because of the extra inside box length for long travel dune buggies. I have 20ft of open space with the couch fold it up and I dinette chairs moved.

Newer toy haulers have very small garages

 

I would never sell the complete truck for under 40k

It's older but fully redone. And I still show it we have 5 trophies so far for best paint and or aluminum polishing.

I know we always think are stuff is worth more but at 20k no way I would ever sell it.

[NoDirectionHome]

I wonder if any of these would work for you?

 

http://www.trucksleeper.com/ict-used-sleepers.htm

[shorts]

It might be worth your time to spend a couple of days in northern Indiana and tour or talk to some of the sleeper and TC manufacturers, or at least do a thorough utube and net search for their build processes. It's been several years but I did the research and tours ICT and ICT build million mile sleepers and float them in suspension systems. The TC builders mount solid to the truck frame, Showhauler uses a full steel cage frame, Renegade uses a steel frame and foam sandwich composite sidewall on their units and Haulmark I don't remember but I think it's an Aluminum framed sandwich construction. The TC builders used to build on used chassis and then re title them to the year the conversion was done.