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analog thermostat


sockeye

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I replaced the Duo-Therm analog thermostats in our coach with Honeywell model RTH221B 7-day programmable digital thermostats. I added a small toggle switch on the side for the fan speed control. Here's the wiring conversion I used:

 

q2QeXnjl.jpg

 

And the finished project:

 

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You can just see the mini-toggle switch handle peeking out on the lower right side

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Here is a good post explaining the process:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f30/digital-thermostat-3055.html

 

Seems like the biggest problem is dealing with the two speed AC... I agree with Ken to just ignore the low speed when doing the conversion...

 

One suggestion I would highly recommend: before you remove your old thermostat - take a picture of the wiring connections with your cellphone... So you have a record of how it was wired ;-)

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I just replaced my Dometic thermostats with non-programmable Honeywell's. I had no use for the 7-day programming feature and this model was only ~$50 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL9BIM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

 

One thing worth noting about the newer Honeywell devices (at least these small ones) is that they no longer have a power input. They are designed to run exclusively off of their batteries. In most RV thermostat conversions done over the past several years the usual practice has been not to connect the 7.5V power lead since the thermostat required 24V. There was no problem with this, but the thermostat was being forced to use its backup batteries as its primary power source. Now, the new Honeywell units are so energy efficient that they don't need a 24V power input and have only 2 AA batteries as a power source.

 

FWIW I connected both A/C fans for low speed operation. We rarely find it necessary to use the high speed and prefer having less noise. One of these days I'll buy a switch to control the fan speed, but it's not high on my priority list.

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I just replaced my Dometic thermostats with non-programmable Honeywell's. I had no use for the 7-day programming feature and this model was only ~$50 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL9BIM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

 

One thing worth noting about the newer Honeywell devices (at least these small ones) is that they no longer have a power input. They are designed to run exclusively off of their batteries. In most RV thermostat conversions done over the past several years the usual practice has been not to connect the 7.5V power lead since the thermostat required 24V. There was no problem with this, but the thermostat was being forced to use its backup batteries as its primary power source. Now, the new Honeywell units are so energy efficient that they don't need a 24V power input and have only 2 AA batteries as a power source.

 

FWIW I connected both A/C fans for low speed operation. We rarely find it necessary to use the high speed and prefer having less noise. One of these days I'll buy a switch to control the fan speed, but it's not high on my priority list.

 

The Honeywell programmables I used are $20 each at Home Depot. We like it cooler at night for sleeping, and the programmables work well for us for that. The two AAA batteries in each stat have lasted over a year so far. I agree on the A/C fan speed. We rarely run them on high too.

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Our Carriage (1964-2012) AC units (Coleman) have both electric heat strips and a Propane Suburban furnace. Would I need a T-Stat that works with a heat pump that also has the "Emergency" gas heat option?

 

 

What you propose should work. Most (all?) heat pump thermostats have "emergency" settings (usually used for resistive electric heating, not gas, backup). So using that setting for your backup heat strips should be fine.

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