sockeye Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 i have a 2002 alpenlite oakmont,it has the dometic duo-therm analog thermostat that controls heat and air would like to change to digital did a search but didn't find much any help would be appreciated thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I replaced the Duo-Therm analog thermostats in our coach with Honeywell model RTH221B 7-day programmable digital thermostats. I added a small toggle switch on the side for the fan speed control. Here's the wiring conversion I used: And the finished project: You can just see the mini-toggle switch handle peeking out on the lower right side . Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXiceman Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I have made this change on two trailers, and one I added the Lo speed switch and the second one I did NOT. Personally, the Lo speed function is useless on the A/C. Too much chance of a coil freeze up on low speed, Ken Amateur radio operator, 2023 Cougar 22MLS, 2022 F150 Lariat 4x4 Off Road, Sport trim <br />Travel with 1 miniature schnauzer, 1 standard schnauzer and one African Gray parrot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRum Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Here is a good post explaining the process: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f30/digital-thermostat-3055.html Seems like the biggest problem is dealing with the two speed AC... I agree with Ken to just ignore the low speed when doing the conversion... One suggestion I would highly recommend: before you remove your old thermostat - take a picture of the wiring connections with your cellphone... So you have a record of how it was wired ;-) I've always been a tinkerer and a fixer... So what better way to stay active in my retirement than to buy an RV... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sockeye Posted November 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 thanks for the reply's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docj Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I just replaced my Dometic thermostats with non-programmable Honeywell's. I had no use for the 7-day programming feature and this model was only ~$50 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL9BIM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 One thing worth noting about the newer Honeywell devices (at least these small ones) is that they no longer have a power input. They are designed to run exclusively off of their batteries. In most RV thermostat conversions done over the past several years the usual practice has been not to connect the 7.5V power lead since the thermostat required 24V. There was no problem with this, but the thermostat was being forced to use its backup batteries as its primary power source. Now, the new Honeywell units are so energy efficient that they don't need a 24V power input and have only 2 AA batteries as a power source. FWIW I connected both A/C fans for low speed operation. We rarely find it necessary to use the high speed and prefer having less noise. One of these days I'll buy a switch to control the fan speed, but it's not high on my priority list. Sandie & Joel 2000 40' Beaver Patriot Thunder Princeton--425 HP/1550 ft-lbs CAT C-12 2014 Honda CR-V AWD EX-L with ReadyBrute tow bar/brake systemWiFiRanger Ambassador Follow our adventures on Facebook at Weiss Travels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I just replaced my Dometic thermostats with non-programmable Honeywell's. I had no use for the 7-day programming feature and this model was only ~$50 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL9BIM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 One thing worth noting about the newer Honeywell devices (at least these small ones) is that they no longer have a power input. They are designed to run exclusively off of their batteries. In most RV thermostat conversions done over the past several years the usual practice has been not to connect the 7.5V power lead since the thermostat required 24V. There was no problem with this, but the thermostat was being forced to use its backup batteries as its primary power source. Now, the new Honeywell units are so energy efficient that they don't need a 24V power input and have only 2 AA batteries as a power source. FWIW I connected both A/C fans for low speed operation. We rarely find it necessary to use the high speed and prefer having less noise. One of these days I'll buy a switch to control the fan speed, but it's not high on my priority list. The Honeywell programmables I used are $20 each at Home Depot. We like it cooler at night for sleeping, and the programmables work well for us for that. The two AAA batteries in each stat have lasted over a year so far. I agree on the A/C fan speed. We rarely run them on high too. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 If you find one that is multi voltage it will use the 7.5 volts Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldretiredafguy Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Our Carriage (1964-2012) AC units (Coleman) have both electric heat strips and a Propane Suburban furnace. Would I need a T-Stat that works with a heat pump that also has the "Emergency" gas heat option? Thanks Mike Mike & Carol Phillips 2001 Carriage Conestoga 2002 Dodge CTD 3500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docj Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Our Carriage (1964-2012) AC units (Coleman) have both electric heat strips and a Propane Suburban furnace. Would I need a T-Stat that works with a heat pump that also has the "Emergency" gas heat option? What you propose should work. Most (all?) heat pump thermostats have "emergency" settings (usually used for resistive electric heating, not gas, backup). So using that setting for your backup heat strips should be fine. Sandie & Joel 2000 40' Beaver Patriot Thunder Princeton--425 HP/1550 ft-lbs CAT C-12 2014 Honda CR-V AWD EX-L with ReadyBrute tow bar/brake systemWiFiRanger Ambassador Follow our adventures on Facebook at Weiss Travels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I turn off the breaker for the heat pump so it won't blow cold air. The furnace still works Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theboondork Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 I replaced my Coleman mach analog thermostat with a Coleman mach digital thermostat, and it made a world of difference in the comfort of my fifth wheel when the heater or air conditioner was running. I consider it one of the best upgrades I've done to the trailer. Fulltiming in an Arctic Fox 27-5L My Website and Blog is theboondork.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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