pjstough Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 This is the system we have. I started with a xantrex ProWatt 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter, and at first just ran the power cord to it with the proper adapters. That got old fast so I ordered two of the inline transfer relays made for these inverters, and a remote off/on switch. I installed the two relays on the outlet circuits that we use the most. Now when we are not hooked up to power, I just shut the converter/charger off and turn on the inverter, and we have electricity. Here are links to the products I used. http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-806-1210-PROwatt-1000-Inverter/dp/B002I04A74/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1446214598&sr=8-1&keywords=xantrex+prowatt+1000 http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Inline-Transfer-Relay-PROwatt/dp/B004S5Y158/ref=pd_sim_422_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31IJsPftWqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1PCM1HYN90B7VZ9GKS9F http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-808-9001-PROwatt-Remote-Switch/dp/B002W87JNO/ref=pd_sim_422_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=411B0TzP4tL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR129%2C160_&refRID=1PCM1HYN90B7VZ9GKS9F 2005 Winnebago Voyage 38J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telcoman Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 I'm going to install a 1000w psw inverter. I want to switch the dc lines from the converter to the inverter when I want inverter function. I want to tie the inverter output, in parallel to the 110v load panel [shore power in] and leave it in place. It makes sense to me that the inverters output would have an isolation circuit when off. Am I thinking correctly? Look for an inverter that autoswiches over when power is lost. I have one and its great. That eliminates all this relay stuff others are suggesting. AS LONG AS YOU CAN MOUNT THE INVERTER CLOSE TO YOUR CONVERTER. It came with an external control so it can be reset without crawling under there. I had room to install it behind my convertor, so I simply pulled off the runs i wanted to feed from it, ran a single 30 amp run to the convertor using a separate breaker then fed all the runs i pulled off back through their original 15 amp breakers. My inverter had 4 outputs, one of which is ground fail so I split them all into 4, actually. I ensured high current draw appliances like the A/C & water heater were not included, and also the fridge as it would prevent it from auto-switchng to gas when the power is lost. When power is lost those outlets are automatically hot. The big thing to watch is the guage of wire from your batteries. With 1000 watts, I beleive you need to look at #4 depending on distance involved. You also need to put a resettable circuit breaker in the battery lead feed. I would put one in that trips at about 900 watts. That would be 75 amps. That part is important. You can buy them off Ebay. Do not cheap out, get a pure sine wave invertor. I only needed 400 watt and used this one http://www.anchorexpress.com/promariner-pro-trusine-400-power-inverter-79400 400 watt powrs my TV, bedside outlets, computer, small hair dryer, etc. That was all I needed. I can live without the microwave. Besides you run your battery down real quick if you start running heavy current draw items. Paul Beddows Summer-Abbotsford BC, Winter Jalisco Mexico Co-Founder of NATCOA Wagon Master for Caravanas de Mexico RV Caravans 2010 Majestic Class C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 These are very informative subjects and the thing that I'm most interested in is Johns discussion of bonding/ neutrality. I was playing [in my mind] with bonding ground and neutral and running a 12g hot wire from the inverter to my transfer sw . John, were you saying neutral from facility in not bonded to ground in the trailer? And that I'd create a ground loop doing so? But,to use my inverter sans an external power source, I would need a bonded neutral, wouldn't I? So, I'm beginning to see where what seems a simple thing becomes a little more complex and why Yarome and others seem to advocate an isolated circuit to my desired area. In my little mind I find it challenging trying to figure out how to do that somewhat attractively. I guess one could use a "suicide" connecter...but that's not attractive at all, bearing in mind I'm not as coordinated as I once was and I never was Very coordinated. 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Another objection a to dedicated circuit, I would like at least 3 different outlets, bedroom, living room entertainment, and computer area. I guess I could improvise somehow. Darn, it makes me want to just drag a darned extension cord around, as needed. I did mention I hated trying to run new wires under/behind, didin't I? 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Oh well...The extension cord wins...As you can see, I bought an inferior trailer after extensive and lengthy research...it just makes sense to not get too involved. You know, I got it cheap [my welsh/scottish stuff] and I like the layout...now I have to live with it. One of these days, I'll grow up. I'm a 46 model, so may take awhile... 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Oh well...The extension cord wins... Mornin, Larry. I wouldn't relegate yourself to the ol extension cord just yet. If running wire isn't your thing, and as a couple of other folk have already mentioned, you could always do a "work'a'round" and fix up a 30amp plug for your inverter. I'm guessing your battery bank is in the forward bay? Using your rigs exterior plug is certainly doable. That would make all of your outlets 'live'. The only critical there is ensuring that breakers to your converter (as least) are in the off position prior to plugging in. If it were me, I would flip off anything I didn't want to inadvertently fire up on my inverter. It may not be 'pretty', but it would get you where you want to go (multiple hot outlets) without any additional wiring. I would be sure to have a 'to do' list right next to the inverter to remind me which breakers need to be turned off prior to turning my inverter on, but it's a viable option and certainly a step above an extension cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duraduk Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I've been plugging the 30 amp. power cord into my inverter or my portable yamaha gen. for years. When I arrive at a boondocking spot I turn off the converter, confirm the refer is set to propane only (not auto), and turn off the breakers to the microwave, electric hot water heater and to the AC. No auto switches to fail. Inverter is mounted next to batteries and all the 120v plugs are powered. When I hook to a pedestal or the generator (almost never) I don't worry about it. KISS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I've been plugging the 30 amp. power cord into my inverter or my portable yamaha gen. for years. When I arrive at a boondocking spot I turn off the converter, confirm the refer is set to propane only (not auto), and turn off the breakers to the microwave, electric hot water heater and to the AC. No auto switches to fail. Inverter is mounted next to batteries and all the 120v plugs are powered. When I hook to a pedestal or the generator (almost never) I don't worry about it. KISS X2 More than a viable option. Just hit those breakers and you're golden and beats the heck outta chasing down an extension cord. I'm all for KISS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 darn, too too simple...just get a 15/30a adapter and good to go-ish. Thanks so much. Pretty sure I've got a 15/30 around someplace... 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Larry & Kathy, I just returned so to your questions: "John, were you saying neutral from facility in not bonded to ground in the trailer?" YES, the panel in the RV has Neutral and Equipment Ground Busses separate and isolated and insulated off each other. There should only be one Neutral to Equipment Ground Bond and that's already in place in the RV parks distribution system. However the RV frame is connected to the Equipment Ground, but NOT Neutral..... "But,to use my inverter sans an external power source, I would need a bonded neutral, wouldn't I?" YES when the alternate power source is an Inverter or your Generator that's a Separately Derived Source (same as a Utility source with a bonded Neutral) which indeed has a Neutral to Equipment Ground Bond and again there's no second bond in the RV distribution system. Don't think of it so much as a "ground loop" think of it as Neutral is a live current carrying conductor for normal return current while the Equipment Grounding Conductor is there to carry ONLY FAULT CURRENT which normally conducts no current. However if you start mixing and matching and re bonding then the Equipment ground is in parallel with the hot neutral current carrier and carrys return current. The Neutral is insulated while the Ground may be wired to the outer conductive metal frame of tools or appliances and if that's connected to Neutral downstream of the panel then if you touch the tools case you're touching a live current carrier and your heart could end up in parallel and 30 t0 50 milliamps of current through it may cause fibrillation and you wake up DEAD. John T Sounds like youre getting the hang of it and have received plenty of good advice on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lartross Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thank you for the clarification, John. That was very clear and understandable. I worked as an et for about 35 years of my career and didn't hear as good of an explanation at that.The last 22 yrs was for the usps and there were considerable differences in knowledge factors needed from the 12 years in the navy. And, I find age and interest have occluded my mental processes considerably. So, I find myself fumbling occasionally... 2003 Coachman Chaparal 276 RLS 2000 F250, 7.3l auto ext. cab 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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