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Replacing Firewall Pass Through


SuiteSuccess

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Suite,

I replaced mine the summer of 2014, along with the dash air valves, and engine pass thru wiring harness. Actually, I chickened out on the wiring harness after looking at it and not being able to figure out all the connections. Then after taking it to the dealer, found out it was the wrong harness. So much for the "last 4 of you're vin please" ending the possibility of mistakes. Anyway, the air manifold wasn't to bad, and I'm glad I got it done, not sure if I would have had the patience to do the rebuild, even if I would have known about it. I not sure about the cost right now, but I will check it out and let you know. I think it was around 350-500 bucks. If I can locate the invoice I'll edit this log with the correct amount. Didn't solve all my leaks, but helped a bunch.

Good luck, Dick T

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Suite,

After checking your picture closer, I think we might be talking about a different pass thru. The one I replaced had 3, 1/4" lines plus 3, 3/8" lines, plus room for some more. I was also off on the price, the invoice shows a list price of $147.54, but I got a discount so price was $95.90. My dash brake valves were $512.46>$333.10. At that time I also replaced the cab leveling valve, $95.83>$62.30. Wiring harness ended up being list price because of shop install @ $996.48, + about $850.00 labor. No more oil all over the starter though. Dick T

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Don't know when they changed but the "older" part has been replaced by 20990666 which has a different layout of the air lines. Could be confusing and tedious.

I have the new one I ordered off Amazon for $102.79 in the cab of the truck just waiting as the next project. The fittings have their function molded into the plastic on both the old and new but haven't checked whether they match.

If you do have the old style and do this before me please let us know how it goes.

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Carl I have been thinking about this and I wonder if the air line ends are cut square. I have also wondered if it would help to slip a small screw driver blade under the edge of the collets when you push the line in to help hold it out and maybe make the fit against the O ring a little tighter.

Just curious if this would help cure the problem and then I could use that solution in the future. Always trying to help.

 

Brad

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Thanks Brad. Gonna work on this this afternoon. Gonna replace the hoses, o rings, and clean out the connections with air to be sure no dirt or other build up. I was careful being sure hose was cut square. Also inspected the original o rings when I replaced and they were intact and didn't seem to have any chunks missing. Will report later on progress. Wish me luck.

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Brad,

 

Did as above and have only one line with minimal leak now. Not enough to warrant replacing whole pass through manifold. Pulled back mat and looked at manifold from cab side and would be a job to replace. Discovered another problem now. Have dampness under mat so gonna have to pull seats and dry out and see if I can find leak. BTW experimented a bit and the hose slips inside the o-ring rather than flush against it as you can see from this Parker cut away.

http://www.parker.com/literature/Brass%20Products/Brass%20Product%20-%20Images/BUL.3501%20PTC-QRG.pdf

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