randpb Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 How do you deal with stiff holding tank cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KodiakJack Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 I have attempted to squirt some WD4 and silicon up the cable when it was fully out to give it some lubrication. I have had mixed results but mostly 2 of the 3 cable controlled tank dump valves feel very spongy and sometimes do not close tight resulting in an unpleasant but sporadic surprise. Any fix will have to wait until I have the underside open. Meanwhile I got one of these and love it. http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445124493&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=knife+valve+with+rv+sewer+connection No more surprises. Later, J 2012 Landmark, San Antonio 2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4 Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 I might be wrong : I'm sure a bit of lube on the cable core wire would help , but ...I've found the valve gate sticking to the seals that made the unit feel stiff . I tore a valve apart and cleaned the gate and the seals and lubed them with WD40 ( probably not the best choice ) . Stiff valves lead to the cable sheath separating from the valve . Something has to give , sooner or later . I have one cable sheath that came out of the valve . The cable core is still secured to the valve slide gate . That valve is close enough that I can hold the sheath in place while closing the valve . If it were much farther away , it would have to be replaced or a second valve installed , like KodiakJack has done . I installed a Dual Flush for a different initial reason , which has a valve and serves the same as Jack's . But , my valves still close tight enough .. Goes around , comes around . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberdave Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 I can access the back side easily so I remove the back nut and tape it so I don't lose them. I remove the handles and pull the cables out and tie them up as vertical as possible. I use a product called tri-flow and squirt a little and wait till it goes down I'll repeat several times. Tri-Flow doesn't dry out and works well. Dave & TishBeagle Bagles & Snoopy RIP Snoopy we lost you 5-11-14 but you'll always travel with us On the road somewhere.AF retired, 70-90A truck and a trailer“He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion” -unknown HoD vay' wej qoH SoH je nep! ngebmo' vIt neH 'ach SoHbe' loD Hem, wa' ngebmo'. nuqneH... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 I have attempted to squirt some WD4 and silicon up the cable when it was fully out to give it some lubrication. I have had mixed results but mostly 2 of the 3 cable controlled tank dump valves feel very spongy and sometimes do not close tight resulting in an unpleasant but sporadic surprise. Any fix will have to wait until I have the underside open. Meanwhile I got one of these and love it. http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-Twist-On-Waste-Valve/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445124493&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=knife+valve+with+rv+sewer+connection No more surprises. Later, J I did a similar hookup cept mine glued on and mine were electric. Those cable valves need the same lubricant as the electric valves its called 101 something. If the cable hasn't started to unbraid, Then you may want to check with a motorcycle shop. They sell cable lubricators that hinge open and then close over the cable one end over the housing of cable the other end over the inside cable and then it has a little hole in it that a tube from spray lubricant fits in and shoves full pressure from can into cable. But most of the time I have found its cable replacement time. You can try unbolting valve and if it works freely then it can all be lubed as needed Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Jim is talking about a cable luber Like : I have this type of valve and I don't think that luber would work . I don't know which type valve the OP has , so ??? Goes around , comes around . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 That Valterra valve is neat. I have cable valves too. Didn't see that, but bought a $5 valve off Ebay and glued it in the line just before the outlet, a "surprise-stopper". 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.