Pre Trip Check List

[Big5er]

They already are, at least they are here. An it happens lots, particularly holiday weekends. And your cdl is just as much at risk if they don't like what they find.

Geo

Luckily in the U.S. we still require probable cause to stop a private vehicle and there is no law that simply allows a roadside inspection of private vehicles simply because an officer "wants" to. There is a huge difference between stopping any personal vehicle and stopping commercial vehicles here. There is also a reason why private vehicles are not subject to the Federal Motor Carrier Regulations. It's called the Constitution and the Bill of Rights. Cops here can't just pull you over and say "turn on your lights" and then write you a ticket if they find one that doesn't work.

[G&K]

Phil, that is a big difference. Probable cause is not required here and it ticks me off sometimes to get caught in one of these sweeps.

 

Geo

[greenacres]

For the people who make any type of income while traveling it is no longer a private vehicle it is now a commercial vehicle.

[HERO Maker]

Ya 1inch off the ground is not a bad idea.

And even the most experienced drivers screw up sometimes

Ouch! That does hurt! Watched a guy hitch up his 1st 5th wheel trailer (he had tow behinds before) and when it came time to raise his front legs - I just had to go out and ask permission to give him a couple of stories about the way he was doing it. He appreciated the instruction.

Yes, even experience doesn't help all the time! Just ask RickW! I was hitching up at his place a few weeks ago, didn't really have my motor and trans warmed up well. Well I hitched up pretty easy (now with the hitch up camera installed) and was going to shut the truck off to say our goodbyes and do a double check on everything. Moved the lever out of Reverse and into Neutral, but didn't wait (or look) for the indicator to tell me that I was in Neutral. Just left the clutch out and the truck bumped into the 5ver while the legs were still on the ground! Didn't bend the Big foot legs, but certainly did pop off bolts and bend the bottom of the brackets of the Big Foot system. So we spent another 2 hours running to Tractor Supply to pick up 4 new grade 5 or higher bolts and install them before leaving! (did I say how great a host Rick is?)

So that now changed how I hook up. I slow down everything I do in the cab, and before I go into Neutral, I inflate my hitch raising the front of the trailer off the ground. Live and learn and I hope others learn from me, as I have learned from others.

[rdickinson]

The UTube videos were a reference with some omissions and a helpful one at that so LYAO all you want. I got 100% on the pretrip and 100% on the driving part...what did you get?

 

IN BC, the Commercial people as well as the RCMP have mobile scales and stop RV's as well. There has been an issue, I'm told, of too small a truck pulling too heavy a trailer being turned back out of BC to from where they came from...

 

Rental trucks are hydraulic brakes, they are in a different category so don't try to muddy the waters by dumping that in.

 

RE the reference about an MD, here in BC that is a requirement. I'm referring to physical health, not mental health Phil.

 

Is an air brake endorsement not required everywhere? I'm not talking about CDL, just an ABE.

 

RE the tug test comment, yes, it is in the CDL evaluation here. We test the breakaway, hook it back up and test the trailerbrake separately.

 

Re the comment about the landing gear part. By the time I have aired up the Trailsaver and filled the truck air bags the landing gear is off the ground. So no, I don't dig a trench or skid gear on pavement.

 

Don't just check to see if the jaws are around the pin, check the retainer I call it to make sure it is in locking the jaws in place.

 

Re the reference about being a Commercial vehicle, Outside parties called by my BC Insurer have to get Roadside assistance turn him down. The say it is a commercial truck, BC Ferries locked horns with me last trip until I showed them the Doc. from head office, saying I was a non commercial vehicle. 10 yrs ago Alberta Motor assn., refused to insure the IH 4700 and that was an MDT. At the time they said anything bigger than a 350 was Commercial as did Grey Power.

 

I got Coachnet on my own. My Calgary insurer, Aviva, used them. $150 odd bucks for Premium Coverage. After explain to the lady about my rig, she initially said it was commercial. I further explained it was decertified and had been singled and modified to pull the trailer. She asked how many axles, I said 2. That was what she wanted to know, 2 was OK, 3 was not. I need to specify that to the claims agent or they will decline.

 

On edit, Trailerking, I like that checklist. There are variations and modifications that could be made to any list but that covers the lions share. The main thing with this or any other checklist is does the new owner of an HDT with little or no experience know HOW to check these items. I feel it would be helpful to have someone go thru the list with an explanation and it will need to be done more than once. I was told we retain 10% of what we are told the first time.

 

Might be a good topic to go thru at the Convention...walk thru the inspection process with newer owners.

[Big5er]

For the people who make any type of income while traveling it is no longer a private vehicle it is now a commercial vehicle.

Not true. Check the definition of "commercial motor vehicle". There is more involved than making income and/or traveling. You can makes lots of money while traveling and not become a commercial motor vehicle.

[Big5er]

Phil, that is a big difference. Probable cause is not required here and it ticks me off sometimes to get caught in one of these sweeps.

Geo

I understand your feelings. I'm sure that would cause a lot of hurt feelings for us southerners traveling through your area. It's like the gun laws, I'll just have to keep telling myself that it IS a different country even if it looks the same.

[GlennWest]

I get travel pay from one job to another. also I'm not commercial

[alan0043]

Try this..

Preparing Your CDL Pre Trip Inspection Checklist

Every commercial license applicant must pass a CDL driving test, and, every CDL driving test, regardless of state or CDL class, consists of at least three initial parts: the pre trip inspection, the driving skills exam, and road test.

 

During the inspection, each CDL driver applicant will be required to identify specific parts and components and explain why he or she is inspecting them to the examiner.

 

The inspection is extensive; we’ve provided a sample inspection checklist for you below:

 

Engine Compartment (Engine Off)

Leaks and Hoses:

 

• Look for puddles on the ground.
• Look for dripping fluids on the underside of the engine and transmission.
• Check hoses for leaks.

Oil Level:

 

• Point out where dipstick is located.
• Make sure oil level is adequate.

Coolant Level:

 

• Check the coolant level.

Power Steering Fluid:

 

• Indicate where dipstick is located.
• Check the power steering fluid level.

Engine Compartment Belts:

 

• Check the power steering, water pump, alternator, and air compressor belts for snugness, cracks, or fraying.

Cab Check (Engine On)

Clutch/Gearshift:

 

• Depress the clutch.
• Place the gearshift lever in neutral.
• Start engine and release clutch slowly.

Oil Pressure Gauge:

 

• Make sure the gauge is functioning.
• Check that the pressure gauge shows increasing or normal oil pressure, or that the warning light goes off.

Temperature Gauge:

 

• Check that the gauge is working properly.
• The temperature should gradually climb to a normal operating range, or the temperature light should be off.

Ammeter/Voltmeter:

 

• Make sure the gauges show the alternator and/or generator is charging or that the warning light is off.

Air/Vacuum Gauge:

 

• Make sure the gauge is functioning properly.

Mirrors and Windshield:

 

• Mirrors should be clean and adjusted properly.
• Windshield should be free of cracks and unnecessary decals.

Emergency Equipment:

 

• Check for spare electrical fuses.
• Check for three emergency triangles.
• Check fire extinguisher.

Steering Play:

 

• Non-power steering: check for excessive play.
• Power steering: check for excessive play with the engine running.

Wipers/Washers:

 

• Check that the wiper arms and blades are secure and free of damage.
• If equipped, windshield wipers must operate properly.

Lighting Indicators:

 

• Make sure the turn signals, four-way emergency flashers and high beam indicator lights work on the dashboard.

Horn:

 

• Check that horn works properly.

Lights/Reflectors:

 

• Make sure headlights, directional lights, taillights, clearance, four-way flashers, brake lights, and red and amber reflectors are all clean and functioning.

Brake Check

Parking Brake Check:

 

• Apply parking brake and make sure it holds by shifting into lower gear and slowly pulling against it.

Hydraulic Brake Check:

 

• With engine running, apply pressure to brake pedal and hold for five seconds, making sure the brake pedal does not move.
• Make sure the warning buzzer and/or light is off.
• Check the brake operation by moving slowly forward and hitting the brake, paying attention to any pulling or delay.

Air Brake Check:

 

• Test air leakage rate.
• Test air brake system for leaks.
• Check that spring brakes come on automatically.
• Check rate of air pressure buildup.
• Check service brakes.

External Components

Steering Box/Hoses:

 

• Check that the steering box is mounted and secure.
• Look for steering fluid leaks.

Steering Linkage:

 

• Check that the connecting links, arms and rods from the steering box to the wheel are not worn or cracked.
• Make sure the joints and sockets are not worn or loose.

Suspension

Springs/Air/Torque:

 

• Look for broken or cracked leaf springs.
• Look for broken or bent coil springs.
• Check air ride suspension for damage and leaks.

Mounts:

 

• Check for cracked or broken spring hangers, missing or damaged bushings, and broken or missing axle mounting parts.

Shock Absorbers:

 

• Check that shocks are secure and without leaks.

Brakes

Slack Adjusters:

 

• Check for broken or missing parts.
• When pulled by hand, the brake rod should not move more than an inch.

Brake Chambers:

 

• Brake chambers should not be leaking, cracked, or dented.

Brake Hoses:

 

• Check for cracked, leaking, or worn hoses.

Drum Brake or Rotor:

 

• Check for cracks, dents, or holes.
• Brake linings or pads (where visible) should not be worn or excessively thin.

Wheels

Rims:

 

• Look for damaged or bent rims.

Tires:

 

• Check for tread depth.
• Look for cuts or damage to tread or sidewalls.
• Make sure stems are not missing, broken or damaged.
• Check for proper inflation.

Hub Oil Seals/Axle Seals:

 

• Make sure grease and axle seals aren't leaking.

Lug Nuts:

 

• Make sure all lug nuts are accounted for, free of cracks, and securely fastened.

Side of Vehicle

Door(s) and Mirror(s):

 

• Check that doors are not damaged and can be opened properly.
• Make sure mirror and mirror brackets are secure.

Fuel Tank:

 

• Check that tanks are secure, caps are tight, and there are no visible leaks.

Battery/Box:

 

• Check that the battery is secure and connections are tight.
• Make sure the battery is free of corrosion.
• Check that battery box and cover or door is secure.

Drive Shaft:

 

• Check that the drive shaft is not bent or cracked.
• Make sure the couplings are secure and free of foreign objects.

Exhaust System:

 

• Check system for damage and signs of leaks.
• Check that the system is connected and mounted properly.

Frame:

 

• Check for cracks, broken welds, holes, or other damage to the longitudinal frame members, cross members, box, and floor.

Rear of Vehicle

Splash Guard:

 

• If equipped, make sure splash guards are not damaged and mounted properly.

Doors/Ties/Lifts:

 

• Make sure the doors and hinges are not damaged and all work properly.
• Ties, straps and binders must all be secure.
• If equipped with a cargo lift, check for leaking and damaged parts.

Tractor/Coupling

Air/Electric Lines:

 

• Listen for air leaks.
• Make sure air and electrical lines are not tangled, pinched, or dragging against tractor parts.

Catwalk:

 

• Check that the catwalk is solid, free of objects, and securely bolted to tractor frame.

Mounting Bolts:

 

• Check for loose or missing mounting brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts.
• Both the fifth wheel and slide mounting must be solidly attached.

Locking Jaws:

 

• Look into fifth wheel gap and check that locking jaws are fully closed around the kingpin.

Platform (Fifth Wheel):

 

• Check for brakes or cracks in the platform structure which supports the fifth wheel skid plate.

Kingpin/Apron/Gap:

 

• Make sure the kingpin is not bent.
• Make sure the visible part of the apron is not bent, cracked, or broken.
• Check that the trailer is laying flat on the fifth wheel skid plate.

Locking Pins (Fifth Wheel):

 

• If equipped, look for loose or missing pins in the slide mechanism of the fifth wheel.
• Make sure locking pins are fully engaged.
• Check that the fifth wheel is positioned properly so the tractor frame will clear the landing gear and the tractor will not strike the trailer during turns.

Additional Ways to Prepare for the CDL Test

To help prepare for the inspection, study your state's CDL manual. You might think you only need this kind of CDL practice for the written knowledge exam, but the truth is the manual generally contains detailed inspection information and more studying you do, the more prepared you’ll be for each part of the CDL test.

 

You should also do yourself a favor and take at least one CDL practice test. You can find these online and they’ll test you on your pre trip inspection knowledge.

 

When you think you're ready, call your local DMV and make a CDL test appointment.

 

Hi TRAILERKING,

 

Thank you for coming up with a list. This is what I was looking for. I am going to save the list and also print it out. It sounds like I should also find a booklet for Ohio on CDL license.

 

Al

[HERO Maker]

I believe you'll find just about everything on Kings' list here on the Resource Guide, if you had problems finding it. Anything that might be different is probably going to fall under "common sense" stuff.

[Guest THE TRAILERKING]

 

Hi TRAILERKING,

 

Thank you for coming up with a list. This is what I was looking for. I am going to save the list and also print it out. It sounds like I should also find a booklet for Ohio on CDL license.

 

Al

That's the best thing. Even if you're not required to have a certain license or training by what ever part of the Country you're in, practice it anyway.....It can't hurt you it will "Better" you.

[alan0043]

I believe you'll find just about everything on Kings' list here on the Resource Guide, if you had problems finding it. Anything that might be different is probably going to fall under "common sense" stuff.

 

Thank you Rocky for post the link to the Resource Guide. This is also going to be a big help.

 

Al

[greenacres]

Not true. Check the definition of "commercial motor vehicle". There is more involved than making income and/or traveling. You can makes lots of money while traveling and not become a commercial motor vehicle.

 

It falls under the business and tax laws. If your vehicle is used for your business it will be insured as a commercial vehicle and the Leo will see this on even a routine traffic stop then everything goes south from there.

It's only illegal if you get caught

[Big5er]

It falls under the business and tax laws. If your vehicle is used for your business it will be insured as a commercial vehicle and the Leo will see this on even a routine traffic stop then everything goes south from there.

It's only illegal if you get caught

Since I am a commercial vehicle enforcement LEO I will again disagree with you. There are many vehicles used in commerce that are not "commercial motor vehicles". Ask any pizza delivery driver.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

We use our Volvo as our daily driver, same as I used the Dodge. Once a week, I check my fluids, belts, etc under the hood. Every time I walk by the truck I look at the tires, hubs, and exterior. Once a month and actually more often than that lately, I'll crawl under and check the condition underneath, brake cans, adjusters, driveshaft etc.

Grease is every 15k with an oil change.

We put about 25-30k a year on our vehicles.

Paying attention to your vehicle should be the first check to make. Look underneath as you walk by, See a drip" Investigate it". Hear a hiss, look for it.

If I did a full commercial pre-trip check every time I move the truck I'd never get to work and back.

Use common sense if you got it,

if you don't then .................

[Jack Mayer]

For the people who make any type of income while traveling it is no longer a private vehicle it is now a commercial vehicle.

That is simply not true....or, actually, an incomplete statement.

 

You have to make money USING THE TRUCK as a part of the operation. For example, if I travel fulltime and manage a campground I'm no more commercial than the guy driving to work in his car.

[Big5er]

Jack, you could sell insurance and drive your HDT to your appointments, or you can deliver pizzas in the smart car. These are just two examples, neither of which makes your vehicle "commercial".

[greenacres]

That is simply not true....or, actually, an incomplete statement.

 

You have to make money USING THE TRUCK as a part of the operation. For example, if I travel fulltime and manage a campground I'm no more commercial than the guy driving to work in his car.

That's true but if you use your rig to haul a product to sell for your income it is now a commercial vehicle.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

As I stated earlier I use our truck as our daily driver. I drive to work every day, park it, step out of it and go to work. Just like billions of other people each day. Am I using the truck to make money- NO, Am I using the truck to haul anything that make money, YES- Me, but that doesn't make it commercial. It carries my lunch some days, might carry a computer that I need to do my job other days..just like everybody else does. Is a doctor's car a commercial vehicle because it has his stethoscope in it or a prescription pad?

Common sense- use it

[Ronbo]

That check list is so long I have to go to bed to rest up. Very little of that stuff was on my driving test and I have a non cdl class a. I would like to watch you and see if you break out your cheaper every time you drive your truck. I would bet you don't. What I'd you park on gravel, are you going to crawl,around underneath before moving your rig? Remember you are the one that stated it should be done before you motor down the road. I walk around my truck all the time. I am always scanning for something that doesn't look, sound, feel right. I then check it out. The inspector was satisfied enough to grant me my license. That is good enough for me. I do like your list for an annual check, but every day before I hit the road, nope

[Darryl&Rita]

Phil, that is a big difference. Probable cause is not required here and it ticks me off sometimes to get caught in one of these sweeps.

 

Geo

 

 

I understand your feelings. I'm sure that would cause a lot of hurt feelings for us southerners traveling through your area. It's like the gun laws, I'll just have to keep telling myself that it IS a different country even if it looks the same.

 

 

Probable cause is alive and well in Canada.

During a "Check-Stop", like Geo is describing, multiple vehicles will be passed through the gauntlet for every one pulled in. It's no different in BC, Alberta, or Texas. If you're waved in, the officer "felt" he had a reason to speak to you more closely. The conversation and observations will determine if his "feelings" lead to a release or further digging.

How does Texas DOT decide who to pull in for a road-side "up close and personal"?

[Ronbo]

The officer feeling he needs to talk to me more closely is not probable cause.

[beyerjf]

pre trip inspections are important, and of course I not only do a pre/post trip, but constantly look at the truck/trailer when I leave it and get back to it. But one has to remember that the original regulations(in 1935) were designed when vehicles were no where near as robust as they are now, and the assumption was made that a driver would be driving a different tractor/trailer combination every shift ( ala freight terminal-line haul-city P&D type of operation,) which is a much smaller part of the industry now.

Do I carefully look at the springs expecting to find a cracked leaf? Not on an air ride tractor. If the brakes were 90% at the last 15k service interval, they probably are ok now. Of course I am the only one who drives/services this vehicle, just like the rest of you. I am intimately familiar with every piece of this truck in the 1.7 million miles I have driven and fixed it.

I am with Jack on this, the safety is part of it, but the biggest is the fact that I don't care to do any roadside demonstrations.

[rdickinson]

The complete inspection on truck and trailer takes about 45 minutes, including the paperwork. This is what ICBC allows. I couldn't read aloud thru that list aloud in 10 minutes.

 

The in cab Checklist including air check takes a good bit of time due to the wait time in between steps, fanning the brakes down until audible alarm, fanning down further until yellow and red knobs pop out then waiting for the air pressure to reach 120 or 125 before the governor cuts compressor out. Then wait for Shutting off engine and holding brake pedal down for 1 minute and listen for leaks.

 

Doing the proper pretrip has both cost and saved me grief, I found the Moreryde IS blocks had split and the shocks were stained so everything was replaced. The shocks were in fact no good.

I found the AC wasn't working, turned out to be a steel line.

 

There is a wiring harness going into the engine, that was leaking oil down the engine to the ground. It was replaced for about $3k. Had it not been replaced, oil would have penetrated into something electrical and cause major problems.

 

The gasket on a spinning filter had let go causing a leak, the gasket was replaced.

 

If you get in an accident, there is a pretty good chance you will be dealt with as a Commercial unit. The lawyers will have dollar signs in their eyes.

 

Now when I'm driving down the road, I know the doors are shut, cargo doors are closed, sat dish is down. I feel a lot safer.

 

[Scrap]

I'm commercial stuff, but you guys got me thinking about some of my past ones:

 

• Best pretrip ever: Picking up new trucks at shows. Every pre-trip should be done inside, on carpet, under lights, and on a perfectly clean new truck!
• Worst ever: Top of Loveland Pass. Snowing sideways in January. Sometime after midnight. It sucked! 2nd runner up: In itchy barley stubble - with a rattle snake under the chaff!
• Worst find: Checking the same ol rear rear axle slacks as always, but somehow one got so far out of adjustment that when my helper applied them the slack hit my tape measure, knocked it out of my hand, hit me in the face just right to gave me a bloody nose and later I managed to grow a small black eye.
• Worst miss: No pre-trip. Moving a truck across shop yard to the washpit in a hurry. Aired it just enough to drag it through the park brakes (40-50 some primary, 0 secondary), got to the wash pit and no brakes. Hit em again and no brakes. WTF??? Crashed thru the plastic storage hut, kablooshed a 50 gallon drum of pink soap, then pinned it all into an ecology block wall. Then I remembered to pull the yellow knob to e-stop. Truck had a scored/sticky/leaky rear relay valve. On the plus side I passed my drug test!
• Most embarrasing: Was at a truckstop in the wind in Wyoming with my first T2 w/ C16 and all its new stuff under the hood. Went to trip my truck and show off my CAT to the guys I was bragging to. Went to tip my hood like a boss and somehow managed to yard the hood pull right out of the hood. Landed flat on my arse with a KW bug in my hand and the hood still closed.... Closing a T700 hood with the wipers still up runs a close #2. It would be fine if they didn't come out all bent over each other and super retarded looking. Everybody knows exactly what you did.
• Items that make me the most paranoid: Caging bolts left in brand new trucks or trailers, and the pintle hook lock on my pup trailers. I don't know how many times I pre-trip em then get 10 miles down the road and stop again cuz they drive me crazy in the head.
• Most pre & post trips in a day: Don't remember exactly but it was in the 15-20 trucks range. The day sucked and it made a friggen mess out of my logbook. But them's the rules I guess.