Where to buy 20A WDRU Receptacle & Installation Tool?

Jim Gell · September 15, 2015

Our microwave flickered on and off when we slid cookie sheets and cutting boards into the little cabinet above it. Inspection revealed a short when I wiggled the cord that fed through that space and plugged into an outlet in the back wall there. I pulled the outlet and there are signs of overheating and corrosion of the contacts where the plug goes.

I want to replace the receptacle but have not been able to find one to buy online. I found an Ebay seller who sold one in the past. He/she is on vacation for a couple weeks. If I don't find one sooner, I will contact him when he returns to see if he has anymore to sell. I have found 15 amp duplex version of the same Wirecon self contained design.

Does anyone know where to buy a 20A version of the Wirecon WDR receptacle?

Also: I found a pdf online showing a special installation tool. Am I right to assume I can put the wires in place and compress the two halves of the outlet between a couple pieces of wood with a c clamp or two?

And lastly: Could the reason I can't readily find a replacement indicate these have been replaced with an improved receptacle in newer RV's? Is there something else I should use? The literature from Hubel-Wirecon said these were designed to withstand the vibrations of RVs. Will a well installed household receptacle work just as well? Or will the screws vibrate loose no matter how I install it? Permatex removable liquid thread lock? I was able to pull extra wire out of the wall and an otherwise ugly flush mounted box would not be a eyesore inside this cabinet.

Jim

Tex Bigfoot · September 15, 2015

From my personal experience a good quality home type wall plug will do the trick . if you are worried about the vibration just add a little tread locker.

Mastercraft · September 15, 2015

For what it's worth, I'm in the process of changing out all the WDRU outlets in our trailer. There is something about the "push the wire into a V shaped conductor that cuts through the insulation to make the connection" that just isn't working for me. Reminds me of 12V landscape lighting wiring :huh:

I have been installing a plastic remodel box that has the wing mounting clamps that are similar to the WDRU stuff and then put in a 20 amp receptacle.

Mark and Dale Bruss · September 15, 2015

I have replaced a couple of the WDR receptacles. It is not easy without the tool but the tool is too expensive for the amateur user.

One thing to watch is the polarity of the housing and the push-in plate. It is not very obvious but does matter.

Jim Gell · September 15, 2015

Mark,

Where did you get your replacement WDR receptacles?

Jim

Mark and Dale Bruss · September 16, 2015

Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M8LAEQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Jim Gell · September 16, 2015

Thanks, Mark. I was hoping you had another source. I found 15 amp receptacles. What I want to replace is a 20 amp version. Since the 20A heated up, I don't think it would be wise to install a 15A. I will ask a local electric supply store if they can order one.

myredracer · October 1, 2015

Maybe a little late on this thread... These receptacles (and switches) are called self-contained devices or "SCD" for short. Readily available all over the place. If you have one now that has a T-slot that accepts a 15 or 20 amp plug, your circuit may not actually be 20 amps. Check the breaker and wire rating and if 15 amp, you can use a duplex or single 15 amp recept. or a T-slot one. Makes no difference. I'd be surprised if you have a 20 amp microwave.

Here is a listing on ebay for a 15/20 amp T-slot single receptacle. Listing says 15 amp but description says 20 amp. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WIRECON-SELF-CONTAINED-RECEPTACLE-OUTLET-15A-125V-OFF-WHITE-RV-/231617778236?hash=item35ed7ed23c&vxp=mtr It's clearly 20 amps because it's a T-slot. When searching, google "self contained device" or "SCD device" along with "receptacle". You can buy them from the online RV vendors or from local RV dealers. Available in black and white too.

There is absolutely no reason not to use an SCD device or to fear or worry about them. They are CSA listed which means they have gone through VERY stringent testing. They're used in mobile homes too. They are designed to fit in thin walls in RVS since exterior walls and underside of cabinets are only about 1" thick. Most RV-ers aren't used to them and don't know how to terminate the wires. There is a special tool available to punch down the wires, but from what I've seen, even RV manufacturers don't use them or know how to. You can simply use a large flat blade screwdriver and/or needle nose pliers. Just hold the recept. against something solid and push the wires steadily and hard enough until it goes ALL the way down onto the "stabs" (IDC connectors). I'm an EE and have no concerns about SCD receptacles. Never install a standard residential receptacle in an RV without an outlet box.

There are several brands on the market, Pass & Seymour, Hubbell (Wirecon) and I think Diamond (?) that I know of. I'd get the first two as the plastic seems a little stronger and they're long established US companies. Here is a Hubbell brochure: http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/wirecon_catalog.pdf

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Jim Gell · October 1, 2015

I brought the old Wirecon into a local electric supply store and they could not even order one they said. I used a conventional high quality 20 amp tamper resistant receptacle in a shallow box. It seems secure enough. I fully looped the wires on the screws so if they rattle loose, at least they won't come off the screws.

Thanks for the great info. I will use it next time and others may find your post and be helped by it.

rpsinc · October 1, 2015

Looks to me like what the SCD is encompasses a few different items which can be bought much less expensively.

Use a "old work" plastic box and a "normal" receptacle and cover. Costs would be much less and also can choose larger cover plates to compensate for the plastic box.

$15 dollars for each (includes shipping) SCD could go much further and can get at hardware store or home center and better for replacement in the future.

I personally dont like using the stab in type of receptacles but rather prefer having the wires clamped onto the recep via a screw. These are a bit more expensive but much safer. Less prone to vibration issues.

Coming from 25+ years of construction experience and 32+ year RV owner.

ray.service · October 2, 2015

I brought the old Wirecon into a local electric supply store and they could not even order one they said. I used a conventional high quality 20 amp tamper resistant receptacle in a shallow box. It seems secure enough. I fully looped the wires on the screws so if they rattle loose, at least they won't come off the screws.

Thanks for the great info. I will use it next time and others may find your post and be helped by it.

A loose wire can be more dangerous than if it came completely off.

Jack Mayer · October 2, 2015

A loose wire can be more dangerous than if it came completely off.

Well, that is debatable, depending on the circumstances. But a loose wire under load is going to be "ugly". You are going to overheat that connection and will typically see a singed fitting, and possibly a fire depending on the location and circumstances. I'm not saying that to scare anyone, but I have seen MANY singed connection points in RVs. Unfortunately, unlike ship/marine products, RVs use a mixture of household fittings and more specialized RV or marine (rare) fittings. Household fittings do not "do well" in vibration-prone applications....as mentioned previously. This is one of the reasons why I recommend all loadcenter connections, transfer switch connections and other "like" fittings be checked and tightened once a year.