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Norcold 1200 Has Passed Its Gas


Aggie79-82a

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My Norcold 1200 developed an ammonia leak and is now toast. We have decided to replace it with a residential refrigerator. Having trouble determining what size residential will fit or can be made to easily fit our 2005 Newmar Mountain Aire 4032. The RV tech from the company I contacted to eventually do the work gave me the dimensions for the Norcold but not dimensions for the residential that would fit and allow me to open the door(s). The biggest concern is the 63 ¼” height limit he provided. Most of the counter depth fridges are in the 67” to 70” range. The Samsung RF18 is about 71”. There is a good amount of space below the Norcold but I’m not sure how much I can safely lower the fridge floor.

 

I have searched the forums but I’m not finding much on my 4032 floor plan. Any help would be appreciated. We have been full time since late March in our very first RV of any type. Not much experience to guide me on this problem.

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My Norcold 1200 developed an ammonia leak and is now toast. We have decided to replace it with a residential refrigerator. Having trouble determining what size residential will fit or can be made to easily fit our 2005 Newmar Mountain Aire 4032. The RV tech from the company I contacted to eventually do the work gave me the dimensions for the Norcold but not dimensions for the residential that would fit and allow me to open the door(s). The biggest concern is the 63 ¼” height limit he provided. Most of the counter depth fridges are in the 67” to 70” range. The Samsung RF18 is about 71”. There is a good amount of space below the Norcold but I’m not sure how much I can safely lower the fridge floor.

 

I have searched the forums but I’m not finding much on my 4032 floor plan. Any help would be appreciated. We have been full time since late March in our very first RV of any type. Not much experience to guide me on this problem.

Hi Aggie

 

Aggie Dad here, SIL 93 & 96 Daughter 99

 

Many of us have had the top or bottom of the enclosure moved up or down to accommodate our Residential 12xx replacements.

 

Dave O

Samsung RF197

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After our Dometic cooling unit died the 3rd time we had a Samsung rf18 installed. The installer had to rebuild the opening at the bottom and remove a drawer. We have 5 1/2" left under the frig. The installer happens to be a Drv dealer but started the business by buying used rv's at auctions and rehabbing them. Then they started buying Drv's at auctions and rehabbing them. Now they are a small but well thought of dealer. He did a very nice job. Rolling Retreats in Elk City, OK. I can't get a picture to post. Send me your email in a pm and I will send you a picture.

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We could go wider, so we installed a 24cuft Whirlpool side-by-side in our Dutch Star. We are still above minimum clearance on the furnace below. Ours was like this install - http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Residential_Refrigerator_Install.pdf, but that fridge was no longer made.

 

But every floorplan and RV model is different. Measure everything multiple times and see if you can go higher or lower with cabinet work. http://www.ajmadison.com/ and http://www.appliancesconnection.com/ will help you find fridges that will fit or be close. Also check Sears online, since Kenmore models can be unique. Some have gone with 11 to 18 cuft top freezers instead of French Door models, since they were easier to fit.

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Wow guys!

We are almost in our new home. Next week trim painting and gas line change to high power and we are going to be done. Right now we are still in our fiver and the new LG Frig from our old trailer is in the steel workshop along with the small chest freezer. Yesterday we woke to a dead RV refrigerator. The last time we had a Dometic fail we were fulltime, but parked on our family property making the custom counters and computer built-ins so had a workshop there with a spare refrigerator we could use. That was 1997 and the replacement installed on sale at the Denton Texas Camping World for $750.00! Boy has that changed!

 

This rig had a two year old new cooling unit and since we did not smell ammonia or any other strange occurrences, I am going to do the complete troubleshooting because I do have the time and I suspect it will be one of the fuses or the heating element, or both. I will also do the obligatory Dinosaur Circuit board as I did with a failed Furnace board back then. The cost of Dometic reefers and Dinosaur boards have gone up 200-350%! ~$2000.00 installed????

 

If I cannot repair it I will get one of these: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/whirlpool-10-6-cu-ft-frost-free-top-freezer-refrigerator-white/9505116.p?id=1219418204898&skuId=9505116 We can install it ourselves as we have a carpenter and mast trim carpenter in the household. (Me and She) It fits, and will only require a top cabinet door adjustment a four inches taller. EZ PZ. But since I am always buying, and selling my old afterwards taking my time, it would be better to repair it as a 28.5 footer while comfortable for us for weekends, and could, despite not being a covered bottom, fulltime for a single, it will likely need to be able to work with gas too.

 

So my Dometic RM2652 did serve us well through the 106° days this past summer while we were living in it. I bought and learned how great the FloJet Macerator pump is, and learned how easily a TPO roof can be put on a non rotted Marine plywood roof. I might break even at book value but it will be worth more with all the major items replaced and repaired and the rig looking like new.

 

So off I go to start troubleshooting starting, since it has been 18 years since I last messed with one, with this video I found very well done and basic enough as well as using meters and values and part numbers for my model here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqSLwucFmCI and these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2zioJ7XwmM

 

Wish me luck!

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We had to drop the floor about 6" to get the fridge in. There was just a bit of wiring that didn't have to move and a speaker we didn't need so it came out. If at all possible take a look under the fridge to see what's there and if you can drop your floor.

 

We used Double Eagle RV repair in Las Vegas, (702) 458-4700, to do our install and add a new inverter dedicated to running the new fridge. They did a good job.

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Guys,

I first switched the fridge to gas and it works great again. So that narrows it down to the AC heating element, the glass fuse on the board for 120v, and the board. I'll post back with the fix. I would prefer to have it working and be able to do just what I just did, switch heating energy as needed. The house type fridge is fine but it is cheaper by far right now to just diagnose what failed and R&R it. I have a like new little 28.5 footer that suits our current needs just fine.

 

However, it occurred to me that since I have a 30 Amp Fiver, not 50 Amp, it might cause issues if the fridge and the A/C start up at the same time. For future reference, has anybody that made that switch, done it in a 30 amp powered rig? Any issues? Comments?

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Guys,

I first switched the fridge to gas and it works great again. So that narrows it down to the AC heating element, the glass fuse on the board for 120v, and the board. I'll post back with the fix. I would prefer to have it working and be able to do just what I just did, switch heating energy as needed. The house type fridge is fine but it is cheaper by far right now to just diagnose what failed and R&R it. I have a like new little 28.5 footer that suits our current needs just fine.

 

However, it occurred to me that since I have a 30 Amp Fiver, not 50 Amp, it might cause issues if the fridge and the A/C start up at the same time. For future reference, has anybody that made that switch, done it in a 30 amp powered rig? Any issues? Comments?

Derek, being 30A service should not cause an issue with both starting at once. an older 13,500 btu rooftop A/C unit typically draws about 15-18A momentarily at startup, then settles to under 13A while running. New units have a running amp draw of close to 9.5, with startup near 13A.

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