Nuke-E Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Here's a teaser for something I decided to put together after working with Carl on the wiring on his bed after the East Coast Rally a few months ago. Even though there were a lot of splices eliminated, there were still a number of places that it wasn't easy to get everything crimped together (especially ground wires), and the heat shrink connectors Carl was using weren't exactly cheap. Some time later, I was working on a few revisions for the gen-2 headlight wiring harness and getting a few other things ready for my next order, and thought that there might be some interest in putting together something to make lighting up the bed easier. Below is a picture of one of the working prototypes from the manufacturer (a number of changes are still in the works). The way I've laid it out, there are basically 5 pieces: Frame rail section--plugs in to factory 5-pin connector, and runs along frame rail to back center of bed where it meets the frame end section. Connector at forward end to plug in to intermediate side marker light harness (not required, but a good idea), and one at the rear end for connecting to identification and license plate lights. Frame end section--basically a "Y" that splits the 5-pin connector into 2 4-pin connectors, one with ground, tail, reverse and left turn; the other with ground, tail, reverse, and right turn. Side/corner section--where most of the lights plug in, one on each side of the truck. Connects to the frame end section, and has connectors for reverse lights, stop/tail/turn lights, rear side marker light, and rear clearance light. ID light section--plugs in to frame rail section, and has 4 connectors to plug in 3 ID lights, and one license plate light. Intermediate side marker light section--branches out 2 directions from frame rail harness (one for the left side, one for the right) and carries both stop/turn and tail lamp circuits (more on the reasoning here later). In addition to these, there would be an assortment of pigtails (for the clearance/marker lights) and adapters (for the normal 3-pin light connectors). For the reverse and stop, tail, and turn lamps, the harness ends with 3-pin connectors that will plug directly into Truck-Lite's LED tail lamps (the Super44 Fit-n-Forget series with lifetime warranty), or to adapters that go to a normal 3-pin male plug. I didn't want to go directly to the male plug, just because one of those laying loose is asking for a short. Believe it or not, I actually picked this particular connector without knowing about the Fit-n-Forget lights--I can either claim that great minds think alike, or the more likely--dumb luck. In addition to labelling each plug, I also plan to have colored shrink wrap near each plug so that the connections can be made by color as well. If the wires need to pass through a small opening or grommet, the pins can be removed from the plugs without too much difficulty. Obviously, most of you already have lights wired up--this would primarily be something to make new bed builds easier. I'm also trying to make the lighting requirements easier to understand--basically, if there's a plug, there needs to be something plugged in; ideally the harness layout also makes locating things a little more obvious. I'd really appreciate some feedback--both on the design itself, and on whether there's any interest. I'd also be curious if there would be interest in a "package deal" with all of the lights included (and all of the connectors pre-installed on the lights that don't otherwise have them). I want to have a few ready for the rally, but it's still at a point where I can make changes. I don't have a final price from the supplier, but my goal is to be able to offer this for about the same price as all of the wiring and connectors bought at a local parts house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 I would bet that Gregg and Larry Herrin would be interested in this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G&K Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Great idea. I have recently been having a fight with flaky bed grounds that this harness would have gone a long way to prevent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 How about adding an optional harness for bumper pull trailer plug? At least for 4 pin light plug. I agree that a simpler way to wire especially the rear lights would be great for future bed builds. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Great idea David. Couldn't you have come up with this about a month before the ECR? . Also would like to publicly thank you, Henry, Gregg and the others that are coming up with ideas and innovations that are making what we do easier and safer. One just has to look at BmZero's fifth wheel design and realize this forum is attracting young, bright minds that are willing to share those ideas for free. Where else can you get that kind of bargain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 How about adding an optional harness for bumper pull trailer plug? At least for 4 pin light plug. That shouldn't be too difficult. It would be pretty easy to have an add-in piece between the connectors at the back of the bed. And I'm not going to forget about you Freightliner people either. Carl, everyone else should have to give you credit for the idea--if it had only taken us an hour or two, I probably wouldn't be trying this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Is the Gen2 wiring compatible with the Gen1? As long as I'm rewiring, I might as well redo the rear as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Is the Gen2 wiring compatible with the Gen1? As long as I'm rewiring, I might as well redo the rear as well. Yes, they're the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewhoknowslittle Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Nice work David!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adept99 Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Given that the current version is directed more toward new bed builds, have you considered (for existing lighting systems) the idea of a somewhat more modularized system? With that approach, you could make up a "backbone", a few "Y" modules, and some individual pieces of various lengths to get you to a specific pre-existing light. From there, use an adapter to the major lighting brands, or supply a do it yourself plug splice kit. When I finished wiring my lights recently, they all work, the splices are mostly pretty decent, but the wire routing s&&ks and should be redone at some point in the future. With the modular system, it would be a pretty simple matter to count up how many modules of what length you need, and then it's just plug & play. Thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Paul, That's essentially the way I'm setting it up (I think). It means a few more connectors, but should make it easier to install. Here's a link to a diagram of the layout, with lengths on it (forgive my mixing of metric and English units). The frame rail harness would be the "backbone", and depending on what you guys tell me may be made in several different lengths. If anything seems too short or excessively long, speak up! Ignore the wire sizes on that diagram though--I've changed them a fair bit since I drew this up. I know a lot (most of you, and me included) have more than one stop/tail/turn lamp as an example--there will be a 3-pin "Y" to split that into two and three, and similar splitters for the other lights. Most of those (except the 3-way splitter) I'll be able to get off-the-shelf, so they'll be a pretty cheap add-on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorts Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Super concept and execution. Possibly move the ID and license plug off of the main harness to the bed end harness, it would make the main harness more modular. Make the main harness in 4 and 5 meter lengths, plug and play for 12,15, 24, 27, & 30' beds and boxes, pretty much covers all of the popular bed lengths with the option of side marker lights at the halfway point on the longer beds. The other change would be to make the L Int harness 2 M and the R side 3 M to make bundling excess wire easier at install. Maybe make a plug in adapter for the Intermediate marker harness to add upper clearance marker lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Super concept and execution. Possibly move the ID and license plug off of the main harness to the bed end harness, it would make the main harness more modular. Make the main harness in 4 and 5 meter lengths, plug and play for 12,15, 24, 27, & 30' beds and boxes, pretty much covers all of the popular bed lengths with the option of side marker lights at the halfway point on the longer beds. The other change would be to make the L Int harness 2 M and the R side 3 M to make bundling excess wire easier at install. Maybe make a plug in adapter for the Intermediate marker harness to add upper clearance marker lights. I really wanted to end up with one segment that was just a straight "extension" harness, with the ID and tag lights on the rear harness section--but it didn't work out well for actually connecting the wires. Two wires on a single terminal to branch out is pretty straightforward, three becomes pretty unwieldy. At first, I plan to go fairly long, and get some feedback on just how much extra wire is left over in real installations after routing around all of the usual obstructions. I like the idea of shortening the left side intermediate marker light harness, since the harness plugs in along the left frame rail anyway. It probably also makes sense to do the same thing at the rear, maybe by a foot or so--if nothing else, it's one more "clue" as to which plug goes where. I might shorten the piece that comes off of the frame rail harness for the intermediate marker lights--just so that those that don't use it don't have as much to bundle up. I think these lights are a good thing to have, especially when smart cars and other things on the bed may block the turn signal on the side of the sleeper. I'm running all three (ground, tail, turn) wires to each of the intermediate marker lights with the intention of eventually putting together a module to make those lights operate as marker lights normally, and flash with the turn signals (think reverse Jackolopee logic, which doesn't work with just relay logic). I have an off the shelf version of that type of converter for my car, but it's not smart enough to figure out that the turn signal flashes at about the same rate each time, and often gets "confused" if I step on the brake more than once while turning (and when it stops doing its thing, then the LCM complains). I think I know how to deal with that, but it's not a high priority item. I'm still trying to nail down a labelling method I'm happy with--I want plain English in fairly large print, but it obviously has to be pretty weatherproof. Keep the ideas coming! Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorts Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 With 2 wires per terminal being an understandable issue move the ID license plate plug to the left side harness connecter, thought process being that the license is on the left side or centered on the rear bumper assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 With 2 wires per terminal being an understandable issue move the ID license plate plug to the left side harness connecter, thought process being that the license is on the left side or centered on the rear bumper assembly. We've done exactly that. The first batch should be available by the rally for both Volvos and Freightliners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Great idea David because it was a PITA and without your help I would still be having a LCM fault showing on startup. Just wish the plug and play had been available then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radar274 Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Wow!!! You answered my prayers. Let me know when it is available bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasFlyer Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 Any idea as to a price point yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Right now it looks like the harness kit will be somewhere between $200 and $250. There will be some variability depending on the type and number of stop/tail/turn lights used, and I'm going to put together a full kit that includes the lights also (hopefully within the next week or so). I'll put all the details up on the website as soon as I have it all figured out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radar274 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Putting my order in! Can't wait!! (LOL). Need 4 Oval led STT, 2 Oval Backup, 2 round amber marker lights, 3 round red marker lights for center of bumper, one license plate light and anymore you think I need! Getting Close Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Looking good! You'll need a few extra red marker lights--2 rear facing at the widest point, and 2 on the side of the bed at the rear. I'm trying to find a light type that includes reflectors so that those aren't a separate concern. Thanks for the interest and feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Do you know if it would work on Kenworths, in case I do go that route. t600 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted September 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Hi Glenn, If you can help me track down (or take a picture or two if you have one) the connector specifications for the light bar, at worst we could have an adapter made between the truck and the main harness. A quick google search didn't turn up much--maybe Scrap will chime in? David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Have not got truck yet. Thinking ahead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 They use a 6 pin Weatherpack that is keyed on A & F. So it is a bit different than your average one. CN13350 for the shroud and wedge lock at your KW dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.