HERO Maker Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 OK, short trip yesterday. Only 428 miles with the first 10 miles being through neighborhoods and construction zone. I went from 6.8 and 6.9 average on the display to 7.2 at the end of the trip. I was thinking about resetting it once I got on the highway, but left it alone. Looking forward to it going up more next week. I do seem to have more power when passing other trucks, but maybe that is just me patting myself on the back for doing the project! Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFS Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 Since installing the new sensor I've taken the truck out bobtailing for a few short runs of about 10 miles each but haven't pulled the RV or driven any distance. The truck has always shifted fine, it has a 12 speed Freedomline installed, but it would hold a gear longer than I liked when doing slow to somewhat normal acceleration – where you’re holding the accelerator pedal relatively steady. After installing the new sensor it shifts like it should and the turbo seems to spin up faster during the shifting process. The turbo comes up quick and will overshoot to about 34 psi before backing off when doing a quicker acceleration. I’ve also done a couple of long hill climbs and the turbo holds a stead 32 psi boost. I believe before it was about the same, or maybe 30 psi. The instant readout on the MPG is definitely higher and driving the truck into a stiff headwind at 55 MPH was showing 10-12+ MPG. When I bought the truck and drove it cross country I averaged around 10.5 MPG over a 3000+ mile trip (bobtailing). My loaded weight is 43K. In the past on my trip (same roads each year) I’ve averaged about 7.5 MPG but last year it was closer to 6.5 MPG. I also noticed a decrease in power. On one particular hill I had to drop two gears where normally I only drop one. Once I put loaded mileage on it I'll post the results. 2005 Volvo 780 (Tiny), VED12 465, 12 Speed Freedomline, 3.21 Axle ET Hitch, Jackalopee, MaxBrake 2006 Teton 39' Frontier Experience 2004 Smart Cabriolet (Smartypants) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 One of the things I noticed between my old sensor and the new one is the different ohm reading between the pins. These readings were made while both sensor were disconnected from the truck. The comments below are based on the coloring of the wires as I did not see any pin numbers Old Sensor New Sensor Red to Brown - 123.3K 9.23M Red to Green - 2.179K 843K Red to Black - 118.0K 9.25M Brown to Green - 125.5K Open Brown to Black - 5.46K 5.14K Green to Black - 120.1K 17.91M I'm not sure if memory is slipping because I am getting older..... or if because I am getting older I just have acquired more things to forget. Anyway, if memory serves me right (I neglected to make a written note at the time ) the wires through one of the two sensors were red and green and the other sensor was brown and black. I definitely do not remember which pair was for the boost sensor or the temperature sensor. But, making an educated guess from measuring other sensors on cars, trucks, etc. in the past I would venture to say the brown/black pair is for the temperature sensor and the red/green for the boost sensor. What is puzzling me is why the other pairs were showing a reading - they should be open. Of course, carbon, oil and dirt can create new paths for electron flow that would not normally be present. The red herring on TFS's readings is the disparity between new/old on the red to green wires. Believing these are most likely for the boost pressure sensor the old sensor would be holding the signal voltage to the EECM high while the added resistance of the new sensor would set the signal voltage much lower. Bottom line is there would be a significant difference in the boost pressure reported to the EECM between the two sensors. Alas, I did not keep the old sensor to go back and get readings. As a closing disclaimer - everything I wrote may be wrong since I neglected to write things down when I checked the new sensor and my memory ain't 100% . Very glad to see other HDT'ers are seeing some improvement as I did after replacing the sensor. But, please remember, individual results may be different than mine depending on the condition of the original sensor and all other sensors connected to the EECM. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 You know it's a shame you guys with Volvo power can't hook up a laptop to your motor and "see" what all of the sensors are reading and sending to the EECM. It sure would help a lot to know what the correct parameters should be. Makes changing out sensors more of a "proven" science instead of one guy changing out a sensor and noticing a positive change and others following suit. I guess some of us with other motors are a bit "luckier" in that respect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 You know it's a shame you guys with Volvo power can't hook up a laptop to your motor and "see" what all of the sensors are reading and sending to the EECM. It sure would help a lot to know what the correct parameters should be. Makes changing out sensors more of a "proven" science instead of one guy changing out a sensor and noticing a positive change and others following suit. I guess some of us with other motors are a bit "luckier" in that respect. Ahhaa..... but we can hook up a laptop to the Volvo engine and see what all of the sensors are reading. Just have to own the interface from the Volvo EECM plug to a USB port on a laptop and the appropriate software. This is a "read only" option and not meant to reprogram the EECM. A VCADS Pro 2.4 ranges from $200 to $400 depending on where you buy it. Other motors (engines) will need a similar tool at about the same cost. So, we are not any less lucky that the "other" guy in that respect. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adept99 Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Randy you're starting to sound like WC Fields and the old Harley Davidson exhaust pipe swap routine... Hey mister, can you take the baffles out of my pipes? (In the voice of WC Fields) Sure kid - $80 bucks - you got a fuel card on your bike? What's That?? - Got to have one of those so we can adjust your fuel mixture to be richer so it don't pop and backfire. $350 bucks If you want us to really fine tune it we got to put it on the dyno - $450 bucks and you sign a release sayin' it's OK if we accidentally blow it up... We'll call it an even $900 for the whole job. Kidding Paul Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog... 2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin 2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler 2013 Smart Passion 2012 CanAm Spyder RT 2013 Harley Davidson Street Glide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Gosh Paul......that sounds like it is too cheap. In today's money it would be a bargain at $3,200.00 Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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