Jump to content

Pulling a Volvo frig


Bill B

Recommended Posts

I didn't find anything in the Resource guide (possibly there is) but where are the hidden screws in the back and the best way to get at them?

 

I got the 2 on the floor, one under the bottom drawer, but there seems to be a couple hidden in the back.

 

Thanx guys

 

(fridge works just seems to run a long time. I thought maybe cleaning the coils and perhaps a small muffin fan might be in order)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You mean like a page in the HHRV Resource Guide, Drom Boxes

 

Sometimes I wonder if it is worth it.

Yes Mark - It really is - I, for one, appreciate it. Sometimes I can't find it but first go to

It's on the DROM page but worth repeating!!!

 

 

 

I think that I have it. There is an unknown "amount" of dried "adhesive" in the bottom track. One side (hinge) seems to be clear. The door side has the adhesive. I was able to slip a 12" hacksaw blade 10" back on the hinge side and 1" on the swing side. some playing with it and I was able to get it 3" back. I slipped a needle / syringe filled with universal solvent in there and squirted it to help dissolve the adhesive.

 

I think the adhesive is dried soda pop sugar and that was what is restricting movement. JC, took your advise and shot some lube in the hinge side, still waiting on the solvent (water) to work more on the door side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems to me that the mounting system on ours was two bolts in the front on the bottom which could be unscrewed, and two more in the rear, also on the bottom, that slid into a kind of clip. Those did not unscrew until the unit was completely removed and you had access to the bottom of the unit. The problem is that the bolts and clips are rusty and really don't want to slide. In addition, the refrig is not (at least in ours) setting on the floor. There is a steel mounting frame bolted to the floor of the cab and the refrig mounts to that. The bolts in the mounting frame are not accessible until the refrig is removed. The purpose of this whole wildly over/badly engineered arrangement seems to be to keep the unit from tipping over during high speed maneuvers.

 

It will come out, but the posts above are correct, you need to pull square and straight and at the bottom of the unit. You need a mechanical advantage, fingers alone will very likely not work. Take the door off - doesn't help getting it out, but keeps it from beating you in the head constantly, which, of course, improves your attitude enormously.

 

Don't get in a hurry (the cabinet sides will break - don't ask) and reassemble with Never-Seize.

 

Good Luck

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul - right now I'm going with the soda in the track. The blade came out all sticky and gooey. I wasn't using it as a saw, more like a feeler gage or shim stock. I got the screws out, also had a L bracket by the upper hinge to the cabinet.

 

I'll see if the water works, may even use a second dose.

 

Fingers crossed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

Our program provides accurate individual wheel weights for your RV, toad, and tow vehicle, and will help you trim the pounds if you need to.

Dish For My RV.

RV Cable Grip

RV Cable Grip

All the water you need...No matter where you go

Rv Share

RV Air.

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...