rving4us Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I need to replace the 2 -6 volt batteries in the coach, now that we are full time and are plugged into shore power all the time is it safe to just remove the batteries and leave the rv on shore power or do I need to unplug while I go get the batteries? I need the old one's to keep from paying the core charge. also should I turn the battery switch off and then remove the batteries?Just not sure if running only on shore power will damage the 12 volt side.Cary 2014 Ram,4x4,dually,CC Cummins 2011 Carriage Cameo 37KS3 full body paint, Most options except Generator SKP# 123923 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I need to replace the 2 -6 volt batteries in the coach, now that we are full time and are plugged into shore power all the time is it safe to just remove the batteries and leave the rv on shore power or do I need to unplug while I go get the batteries? I need the old one's to keep from paying the core charge. also should I turn the battery switch off and then remove the batteries? Just not sure if running only on shore power will damage the 12 volt side. Cary You got it. Turn the battery switch off, disconnect your batteries and go shoppin. You're fine on shore power alone as long as you're not towing. No need to unplug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Turn the battery switch off, disconnect your batteries and go shoppin. The batteries work as a control load for the converter. Without batteries attached, the converter will not regulate the +12 volts properly. Anytime I bought batteries, the core trade-in is available after you buy the new batteries. Please click for Emails instead of PM Mark & DaleJoey - 2016 Bounder 33C Tige - 2006 40' Travel SupremeSparky III - 2021 Mustang Mach-e, off the the Road since 2019 Useful HDT Truck, Trailer, and Full-timing Info atwww.dmbruss.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimalberta Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I would unplug the shore power and turn off the battery switch. Disconnect the batteries and make sure that you dont have apower source on the disconnected cables such as solar or a connection to the coach engine batteries. Use your meter and make sure. If there is power on them from a source such as solar ....either disable the solar or tape up those cables until you are ready to connect the new batteries. Sparks are bad! The above procedure is exactly how I replaced mine recently.....do not take chances with the shore power connected. Safety is paramount. <p>....JIM and LINDA......2001 American Eagle 40 '.towing a GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 with RZR in the rear. 1999 JEEP Cherokee that we tow as well. IT IS A CONTENTED MAN WHO CAN APPRECIATE THE SCENERY ALONG A DETOUR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Sparks are bad! The above procedure is exactly how I replaced mine recently.....do not take chances with the shore power connected. Safety is paramount. A great deal of the question is based upon just what you have. If your RV is one without solar, you could leave it plugged in but you do need to do this carefully, particularly if plugged in. Always remove the cable from the negative side first as that goes a long way to prevent those sparks. That is even more true if you are connected to any power source. And make yourself a diagram of the current cabling unless you are an expert as it is critical that you connect the new batteries properly. It is possible to destroy a new battery or two via wrong connections. On the issue of core fees, nearly all stores will allow you to pay as you take the new batteries home, the refund that money when you return the old ones if you want to make absolutely sure that you do this properly. If you do it this way, it becomes even more imparitive that the first cable removed and the last reconnected be the negative one. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 To me the answer depends to some extent on what equipment and what switching configuration you have. If its what I call a Combination Converter Charger, it might have an output circuit that feeds your 12 VDC distribution panel plus a circuit that goes directly down to your batteries to charge them (maybe its just all one???). Most of those work automatically to keep your RV 12 volts up and running as long as you're plugged into shore power, regardless if you have house batteries installed or not. If you have a "switch" that opens the connection to your batteries, of course, I would open the connection when changing out batteries. I remember years ago Converter Chargers that had a manual switch for Batteries or Shore Power (via Converter) to run the RV 12 volt systems. My system no longer has a Combination Converter Charger (I disconnected my old DUMB Converter Charger), I have a Charger ONLY and the DC Distribution Panel is always wired to my batteries. Its just that when I'm plugged to shore power my Smart Charger charges my batteries. There could be an issue depending on the Charger design, as to how it reacts if the batteries are removed so there's no load, but I suspect any quality Charger has its own detection and protection circuitry such that no harm results BUT I CANT GUARANTEE WHAT YOU HAVE??? But as long as its turned off you're fine. BOTTOM LINE Of course if you have a switch that disconnects the batteries from a Load or Charger or Converter Charger TURN IT OFF WHEN CHANGING BATTERIES I would guess your existing Converter Charger still provides 12 VDC to the RV when your batteries are gone if that's an issue or a concern BUT I WOULD STILL TURN IT OFF OR DISCONNECT THE RV FROM SHORE POWER WHEN YOU REMOVE AND RE INSTALL BATTERIES PLUS TURN THE SWITCH OFF YOU MENTIONED. Likewise, when installing new batteries you don't want any charging source or loads connected. NOTE if there's a load or even a small phantom load on your batteries (or a charger) you can get a SPARK when you disconnect (or reconnect the new batteries) them you know, and I'm not a fan of sparks near the tops of batteries where explosive gas may be present. Once they set a period and stabilize after use or after charging, chances of gas are diminished. IE don't have them charging heavy or loaded heavy and disconnect them right away as that's when gasses are more apt to be present. Similar, you don't want any solar charger pumping current into your batteries when changing them out. This isn't rocket science, but as an engineer and attorney I can make it sound that way lol, I cant help myself its in my DNA John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w6pea Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I think it's about time to replace my 6 6v batteries, in my RV, can anyone give me some pro's and con's about going from wet battery's to AGM? The batteries in my RV are not quiet 8 years old. According to the volt meter for my inverter they are all holding a good charge of 13.3 volts. I have 3 100w solar panels on the roof. I have an AM Solar system on the RV. Remember..."Without Truck Drivers America Stops" "I woke up still not dead again today!""Take me to the Brig....I want to see the real Marines" Lt.Gen. L.B. "Chesty" Puller during a Battalion inspection. "Semper Fi" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 w6, Others here are more Solar experienced then myself, but I will offer this until the other fine gents arrive. A big AGM advantage is NOT having to worry about electrolyte levels and checking and adding water or acid and being kept level. They are more expensive, and I'm unsure if over the long run (longevity and life cycles over say 5 to 8 or more years) the payback figures justify their extra cost???? That 13.3 volts sounds like your batteries are charged are being maintained at a "Float" charge level by your controller. AGM can be more sensitive to proper charging, so I WOULD FIRST INSURE BOTH your Charger and Solar Controller have settings for and are compatible with AGM battery charging. Both of mine have individual settings for which type of batteries I have. If the Charger or Solar Controller are not BOTH compatible and designed for AGM, I would be reluctant to make the change. Best I have for now John T NOT a Solar Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Another advantage of AGM is that they can be charged faster - assuming you have a charger that puts out enough power. This is really only a factor during bulk charging while boondocking. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w6pea Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 w6, Others here are more Solar experienced then myself, but I will offer this until the other fine gents arrive. A big AGM advantage is NOT having to worry about electrolyte levels and checking and adding water or acid and being kept level. They are more expensive, and I'm unsure if over the long run (longevity and life cycles over say 5 to 8 or more years) the payback figures justify their extra cost???? That 13.3 volts sounds like your batteries are charged are being maintained at a "Float" charge level by your controller. AGM can be more sensitive to proper charging, so I WOULD FIRST INSURE BOTH your Charger and Solar Controller have settings for and are compatible with AGM battery charging. Both of mine have individual settings for which type of batteries I have. If the Charger or Solar Controller are not BOTH compatible and designed for AGM, I would be reluctant to make the change. Best I have for now John T NOT a Solar Expert John My Solar System from AM Solar, and my 2500w Xantrex Pure Sine Inverter, both have seatings for AGM Battery's. I have both Owners Manual here at the house. It shows how to set the systems up for AGM or Flooded Battery's. I went to the RV last month and added water to the battery's, I need to clean the terminals they are getting bad. I saw the other day that trojan is now offering AGM Battery's anyone have any experience with them.? Remember..."Without Truck Drivers America Stops" "I woke up still not dead again today!""Take me to the Brig....I want to see the real Marines" Lt.Gen. L.B. "Chesty" Puller during a Battalion inspection. "Semper Fi" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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