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Trailer Drum Brakes


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Gonna pull the tires and hubs off the trailer and inspect the brakes, magnets, bearings etc. I've changed brake shoes on a car before, but is it same on a trailer with the second magnetically activated shoe? Also, gonna blow out and clean with air hose and brake cleaner. Any other tips?

P.S. Before I get flamed, the brakes have been checked by my tire shop when they were doing some tire remounting, but it has been two years. I jack the trailer and check my NeverLube bearings yearly according to Dexters directions. One final question, I have the automatic adjusters, so what is the trick to manually adjusting and backing off if the shoes need changing?

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Gonna pull the tires and hubs off the trailer and inspect the brakes, magnets, bearings etc. I've changed brake shoes on a car before, but is it same on a trailer with the second magnetically activated shoe? Also, gonna blow out and clean with air hose and brake cleaner. Any other tips?

P.S. Before I get flamed, the brakes have been checked by my tire shop when they were doing some tire remounting, but it has been two years. I jack the trailer and check my NeverLube bearings yearly according to Dexters directions. One final question, I have the automatic adjusters, so what is the trick to manually adjusting and backing off if the shoes need changing?

In my experience you will not need to back off the shoes, as the adjusters do keep a lot of slack in them, but if you do just turn the adjuster as it does not have any locking attachment to keep you from backing it out. if you need new shoes I would suggest replacing the complete backing plate that comes with new brakes, magnet, springs, it's just 5 more bolts and 2 wires, that way you have done a complete replacement, I buy them from a local disturber for about 85.00 a wheel, less drum of course.

 

Roger

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You may want to put on a "breathing mask" before blowing it out with air hose. From what I've read,"Break dust" is some pretty nasty stuff for your lungs. I also suggest you consider buying the complete backing plate, makes the job much easier and keeps things working smoother till time to do the job again.

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You may want to put on a "breathing mask" before blowing it out with air hose. From what I've read,"Break dust" is some pretty nasty stuff for your lungs. I also suggest you consider buying the complete backing plate, makes the job much easier and keeps things working smoother till time to do the job again.

Thanks. I planned on the mask and goggles and after researching and yours and Roger's suggestion will go with replacing with the complete backing plate if necessary. Any better sources than eTrailor for the plates?

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From what I've found Carl, is that a local supplier "Might" have better pricing when you consider shipping, and mention the fact that your buying 4 (6?) of them.

If you have half of the pad left, not knowing what the original thickness was so I can't give a definite number, I would clean them up, put a little anti-seize on the pivot points of the shoes and let them go another year.

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Carl,

I will add my 2 cents. Yes, it is unlikely you will need to back off the adjuster to get the drum off. From my experience, it will only be necessary if the drum has a bad lip or groove on it and is ruined beyond saving. If you can get one off then it is easy to see how things work and then apply that to initial adjustment or baking off the adjuster should you have to do so.


The self-adjuster part of the brakes is done with an arm that pushes down on the inner edge (braking plate side) of a star wheel on the brake adjuster bolt. That means you need to go through the back of the brake plate with a brake adjuster or screwdriver and pry such that the star wheel is getting turned up on the back side of the star to loosen. That pesky self-adjust arm will try to stop you from loosening the adjuster. If you try to force it to turn past the adjuster arm it will likely pry the adjuster arm out of its mounting hole and then you will have to start all over to get things back together. It is easier to get a flashlight and look inside the brake plate and locate the arm sitting on the adjuster. With a screwdriver, pry the arm up and out of the star just enough to clear the indents in the star and then use another screwdriver to back the adjuster off. Tightening the brake is easy as the self-adjuster will ratchet over the star as you tighten.


Etrailer has been my best source. I think shipping is free on orders over $100. The whole backing plate was $5 more than just the shoes.

I will attempt to post a couple of pictures.Seems it will not let me upload two pics. <_< PM me if you want better detail.

Chet

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Update: Got tires and hubs off and checked bearings and brakes. Spindle nut for the 50mm Neverlube is 1 7/16" and is retained by a small snap ring, so now have another impact socket and a snap ring tool. Will say I did buy a 1/2" Kobalt electric impact after watching Flapper fix his tires at the ECR and it sure made the job easier. I already had a 1/2" air drive but the electric seemed to perform better. Of note, I have to repeat the process because it seems at last brake check at tire dealership they left the retaining clips off of all my magnets. Ordered some new clips. Luckily drum holds magnets in place so no damage to hubs or shoes. Thank heavens all is good because the complete setup for replacing with backing plate is $258 at eTrailer. Hubs with bearings $375. Holy cow for that might think about going ahead and switching to disk brakes when the time comes.

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Carl, I just traded for a Cambridge 5th wheel and one brake magnet was not working. They had to use a puller to get the hub off of the spindle. I don't know if that is typical or not but it could hamper your plans unless you have access to a hub puller. The never lube bearings can be pretty snug on the spindle. Charlie

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Guest THE TRAILERKING

Don't blow any brake dust with air and make it air-born. Brake clean if you must. Forget about replacing shoes. By complete backing plate sets. That way you've got new hardware and magnets. You E-Trailer pricing is way too high. I sell lots of them and that's more than double.

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Carl, I just traded for a Cambridge 5th wheel and one brake magnet was not working. They had to use a puller to get the hub off of the spindle. I don't know if that is typical or not but it could hamper your plans unless you have access to a hub puller. The never lube bearings can be pretty snug on the spindle. Charlie

Charlie,

 

My hubs all came off so we are good. Like I said just found all my magnets had no clips so that's why I have to repeat taking everything off. Brake shoes still at about 80% so I should be good for awhile. Gave me a good excuse to get some new tools. BTW wrote Alan and he said you might have a supplier for the Timken 50mm Neverlube bearings? Dexter wants $158 a piece. How did they check the magnet?

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Don't blow any brake dust with air and make it air-born. Brake clean if you must. Forget about replacing shoes. By complete backing plate sets. That way you've got new hardware and magnets. You E-Trailer pricing is way too high. I sell lots of them and that's more than double.

Thanks. Could you please PM me your sales site? Don't need any now since everything looking good with mine, but always like to have file for suppliers.

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Carl, I'll check and see if I can find where I got the 50mm neverlube bearing. I found one brake not working on my shakedown stay at the dealer. They hooked up a truck-side 7 pin connector and applied the trailer battery voltage to the brake wire and used a clamp-on ammeter to verify that amperage was low.....so that indicated that one magnet was not working. Each magnet draws roughly 3 amps, so if the reading is approx 9 amps instead of 12 amps, it indicates an open circuit to, or in, one of the magnets.........OR you could just listen to the magnets as you have someone apply the brakes while you spin the jacked up wheels. The amp check will just tell you that there is an incomplete circuit and the presence of voltage at the hot wire into the brake will tell you that it's probably the magnet. I found 8k Dexter neverlube axles at Bontragers for $550.00 including springs. They had 9/16 studs for lug centric wheels. I thought about buying one for spare parts but my OCD lost out and I didn't get one....hope I don't regret it. I guess your wheels are hub centric and you have washered lug nuts if you have the 5/8 lugs ?? My wheels are lug centric using 9/16 studs and tapered seat nuts. Tell Donna hello for us. Charlie

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Carl, we need to buy an axle and cut it in half for the spares it would provide. Drat, lost the Netherlands Ebay link with french bearings for $62.50 US . See if you can locate it and let me know. Charlie PS Your post # 16 shows 5/8 x16 studs for your hub part number ???

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Carl, we need to buy an axle and cut it in half for the spares it would provide. Drat, lost the Netherlands Ebay link with french bearings for $62.50 US . See if you can locate it and let me know. Charlie PS Your post # 16 shows 5/8 x16 studs for your hub part number ???

Sorry Charlie. You are correct. I do have 5/8" -18. My lug nuts are cone shaped. Here are the part numbers.

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Carl, I finally remembered that I had Truck Pro order a 50 mm Timken bearing for me. I don't remember the price but it was less than several other sources. I actually called Timken at the time and they said that they would not be producing any more of the bearings for several months.......don't know if it had to do with QC or if they only manufacture them when the production lot size is practical or economical ?? The bearing I got was French made. Charlie

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