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Brake Valve help

Alie&Jim's Carrilite

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Got the new valve, and the old one out of the dash. Same issue as some others here that I have 6 port on the old and 5 plus a screw in pushlock on the new. No numbers or marking on the valves line up as to what line goes where.

Ex- on the old top row- Red line on left, black on right-

Top left on the old valve was marked RES2

Top left on the new valve is Trac Del22

So is there a schematic somewhere?

Are the lines color coded- Gren, Red, Black, Orange, Yellow, and something like bleached orange, industry standard or are they a Volvo specific color code?



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On mine the hoses were: top left- Orange (has TRPK on hose), middle left -Red, bottom left- faded orange

Top right-plugged with black plug, middle right-Green, bottom right- Yellow.


My valve is a Haldex KN 20619. The ports have the following written on them: Top left-TRAC22, middle left-RES2 12, bottom left- TRL21. Top right-AUX23, middle right-RES1 11, bottom right- EXH 3.


Hope this helps. Will load some pics shortly.

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Here are some pics. They may help. If you have six hoses the black should go in the top right AUX and this should be your trolley valve, the plug in that port just pulls out like a hose. Please save it if you don't need it because I rebuilt my old valve and need a plug.

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Thanks to a little help (Roger), and some testing, We got it figured out. The swap was from a Meritor valve to a Bendix. As I said above, different labeling of the valve connections, and not necessary the correct hose colors made things interesting.

If anybody runs into this issue I can e-mail the drawings I made, and the sites I found.

I went to both Meritor and Bendix and found the relevant schematics, combined that with the industrial standard color coded hoses, hooked it all up and only had to reverse 2 hoses. Not the easiest but if thought thru and I made simple diagrams as I went, it's not a bad job. Unscrewing the layers of dash to get to the valve is more aggravating than the rest. Moving 15-year-old tubing to new positions is interesting, but not impossible. Doing this job in really warm weather helps, using a hair dryer to help relax the tubing helps as well.

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the Haldex # is usually "molded" into the part, sometimes between the airline ports.

Once you get that you can do a better cross reference search.



You are right. As I said on Jim's original post, using my VIN# the dealer (and an online parts dealer) wanted to sell me a different valve that was $200 more than the one I had. That's why I just took my dash apart, got the number from the bottom of my old Haldex and went to TruckPro and got the same valve. Wonder if they were trying to sell me a Bendix?

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Yes and works fine. It dumps air quickly on the release instead of the slooow. Truck is holding air better now too. We have another leak I'll tackle at the firewall manifold. Need to buy some air lines first though. If I wiggle them around some the leak stops then over time returns. But there isn't enough line left to clip a half inch off.... some of these suckers are pulled tight and have been so for awhile.

The joys of a $19k truck with only 460k miles!

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