Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Just making sure I understand the wiring schematic for this customization. We need to install a shore power plug up front under the 5'er overhang so that we have the option to plug in there instead of the rear plug. Several sites we have been in recently have the power pole located near the front of the site which means the front of the 5'er almost sticks out into the roadway. And parking the truck is aggrevating as these have been back in sites. Here is the idea- Run the rear shore power and front shore power cables to a Transfer switch- Leave transfer switch and go to my Progressive Industries EMS- Leave EMS and route cable to another transfer switch that has the generator feed tie-in- Leave 2nd transfer switch and route to main panel. Am I leaving anything out? Electricians do your thing Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Mornin Alie & Jim, Have, or are you already?????, considering using ONLY ONE PORTABLE NON HARD WIRED power cord with two locking weatherproof Marine/RV protected connectors, one up front the other in the rear??????????? Just pull out your cord and plug it into the RV's front or rear connection. OF COURSE, I'm talkin the weatherproof protected type of outlets with the cover (screw on or hinge up) so if you're plugged into the front you cant accidentally just walk by and stick your finger in a hot live exposed terminal in the rear. BUT THOSE FIXTURES ARENT CHEAP YA KNOW. Such an arrangement doesn't necessarily require a Transfer Switch (unless you want one) and the output of either the front or rear RV receptacles wire where it already or normally is to EMS or wherever. NOTE AND WARNING with the two RV connectors essentially wired in parallel, the unused one has live elements !!!!!!!!!!! That's why I say to use weatherproof locking connectors with a protective cover you have to raise or unscrew to get to the terminals. The RV Power Cord, of course, has a Female locking receptacle on the RV end. Did you mean two hard wired cords???????? One front other in back???? That requires a Transfer Switch the Poles/Outputs of which goes to your EMS or wherever it already is and working, with one Throw/Input to the front cord the other Throw/Input to the rear cord. That way that hard wired cord with its exposed male end plug blades arent HOT. WELL DUH SURE its safer if there's no hot live terminals on the RV you can get to, even if it requires raising a cover or unscrewing one, you know how curious grandkids can be!!!!!! HOWEVER for added safety you could still use a Transfer Switch such that if the front connector is in use the rear isn't energized. As far as your other wiring questions, If what you have now is safe and working, I dont see any changes are necessary as you end up with a 50 Amp RV input same as before if Im understanding your question that is. John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 I dont know. Maybe its just me, but I would just buy a 50 Amp extention cord. George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirakawa Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 I dont know. Maybe its just me, but I would just buy a 50 Amp extention cord. Bingo. Everybody wanna hear the truth, but everybody tell a lie. Everybody wanna go to Heaven, but nobody want to die. Albert King Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 That's an option as well. But wrestling 1 50amp cord is already a pain in the rear, 2 would be that much more fun... Old John, Yes I'm talking about having 1 cord and 2 receptacles with of course locking covers that would protect those on the lower side of Darwins Theory. At this point it's an idea, that may or may not fly. Now if someone would design a transfer switch with 3 input, 1 out, remote selection for which power input, with amperage display, all for under $100..... Several other ideas have also run thru the head this morning that would simple but not permanent and cheaper than by a transfer switch or 50amp premade extension. Time for a Home Depot run... (Thanks Bill) Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Heiser Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Your original description will work just fine. I added a front plug on my fiver, but I don't have a built in generator so I didn't need the second transfer switch. It is definitely handy to have the option to p,uv in from either end. 2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift 2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard 2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan 2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage) 2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)My First Solar Install ThreadMy Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the buildMy MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet! chadheiser.com West Coast HDT Rally Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastercraft Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 I did much the same. Mounted a second shore power plug in the front, ran it into the generator input on the transfer switch. While I was at it, added the 50 amp Progressive Industries EMS with remote display, but put it between the transfer switch and the coach breaker panel. That way it protects all power applied to the coach. My generator is on the truck so I have to run a cord anyway. Before I added the second shore power input, I used a 50 ft 50 amp extension cord......ah, ya, it is heavy to schlep that thing around. 2009 Volvo 780 D16 535hp 1850 ft-lbs I shift 3.36 Thermo King Tripac APU DIY Bed and Frame Extension ET Hitch, Stellar EC2000, EcoGen 6K 2002 F350 CC Dually w/ Lance 1181 2012 Mini Cooper S 2007 Teton Royal Freedom " The only place you will find success before work is the dictionary " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 I added the second power inlet a couple of year ago. Only had to use the 50 amp extension cable once since then. Most parks are setting up for motorhomes and the front input is netter positioned. I added a second transfer switch that switches between the two power receptacles and the output goes to the input of the generator transfer switch. A transfer switch is necessary between the two power receptacles. You cannot rationally hardwire the two together because that would leave the unused receptacle hot. While extremely unlikely, a kid could stick his/her fingers into the hot receptacle and have a tragic outcome. Please click for Emails instead of PM Mark & DaleJoey - 2016 Bounder 33C Tige - 2006 40' Travel SupremeSparky III - 2021 Mustang Mach-e, off the the Road since 2019 Useful HDT Truck, Trailer, and Full-timing Info atwww.dmbruss.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 We ordered our DRV similar to what Mastercraft has. A hardwired shore power cord on a power reel in the back and a 50 amp receptacle in the front for a portable cord that is run into the generator input on the coach. All of the inputs are protected by an EMS between that point and the distribution panels. We can plug into shore power at the front or a generator. The advantage of that is that the rear cable (or port) will not be "hot" that way and a lot safer for everyone. 2017 Kenworth T6802015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites2016 Smart Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budeneighe Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 A cheapo but safe solution is two pairs of interlocked manual breakers. When you throw it to one feed leg it automatically forces the other leg breakers to off. Vice-a-versa, too. Just the cost of the breaker box, 4 (or two doubles) back to back breakers with interlock links and your wire, of course. Here is one variety of this solution: http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-ECSBPK05-Generator-Mechanical-Interlock/dp/B005GLCE84/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=09CF2EVEQD9ZAJ3MTM3Z Video on this link shows how it works. But it is more upscale than just 2 double breakers with interlock links bolted through the levers. RVBuddys Journal Our progress into full-timing.Budd & Merrily ===-> SKP# 088936 Other Websites:---> Hub of all my blogsClifford - 2000 VNL64T770 :: DakotR - 1999 C40KS King of the Road :: $PRITE - 2013 Smart Passion w/cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobi and Dick McKee Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 deleted.... missed the part about the generator... Just an info we use our front plug about 1/3 of the time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray.service Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 I added the second power inlet a couple of year ago. Only had to use the 50 amp extension cable once since then. Most parks are setting up for motorhomes and the front input is netter positioned. I added a second transfer switch that switches between the two power receptacles and the output goes to the input of the generator transfer switch. A transfer switch is necessary between the two power receptacles. You cannot rationally hardwire the two together because that would leave the unused receptacle hot. While extremely unlikely, a kid could stick his/her fingers into the hot receptacle and have a tragic outcome. X2 and lawyers are more expensive than transfer switches. You might also forget. Make sure Alie has a long broom handle to knock you off Ray & Deb - Shelbi the Aussie & Lexington the cat2004 Volvo 630 500HP ISX "Bertha D" - 10 Speed-MaxBrake -ET hitch.SOLD2009 Designer 35RLSA SOLDFulltiming since '07 - stopped 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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