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Is it too much to ask for parts to fit properly?


CrazyCooter

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Went to install my Lippert Flexair pinbox this afternoon and wouldn't you know it....the holes don't line up right! I figured this would be a simple install except the weight of the thing since Lippert made the chassis too, but it required a little tuning to get the bolts in.......

 

20150628_143319_zps06oksezu.jpg

 

 

Now that the bolts are all in it looks like I gained 2" which will be good for towing with the Pete, but on the Dodge may be 2" high now.....I'm all out of adjustment on every vehicle and as of right now the box flexes up and closes the gap in body before all the weight is set down on it.

 

20150628_194656_zpsiqcn5goh.jpg

 

I'll have to loosen things up and see if I can get it to drop enough to improve the body clearance. Pretty sure I will have to make clearance with a grinder on the front part of the pinbox so it will drop enough.

 

This poor aftermarket fitment seems to becoming an epidemic in all areas!

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hope you got a rigid 5th wheel hitch on the Pete...

 

and no suprise with lippert made stuff. unfortunately Almost every RV mfg uses lippert frames and parts..

 

id go over EVERY inch of every weld on the TrailAir and if you have any friends in the Welding business , id let them go

over it with the X-ray equipment...

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Yes, I have a rigid plate on both trucks and thought I would go with the air pin so we would benefit while towing with either vehicle.

 

The weld surprisingly look decent for a Lippert production part.had a look at the welds on the trailer as well reading some of the horror stories on the net.

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I would have stayed with my Morryde box, but I wanted air when I'm pulling with both trucks and really couldn't justify $8K to outfit both when it could be done with one hitch.

 

Our style of camping requires the use of a smaller 4x4 truck for winter and the tighter areas and will use the HDT for the longer trips and ones where size won't hinder us.

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Had to clean up the area at the front of the pinbox where the "wings" interfered with my trailer's frame area and that got the holes closer, but then cleaned things up with a die grinder to get the rest happy.

 

I think if I clean up that area some more, I can get the hitch down to where it won't contact the body anymore.....I'm hitting up the fastener store for some new bolts/washers as these have been off a few times and would like to have new hardware to finish it off. Hard to believe they only spec'd grade 5 bolts for this application. I would think the clamping force required would be more important than sheer?

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We were out and about this past week, looking at upgrading our 5th. Sales people looked at me like I had two heads when I said "No Lippert frames".

 

It takes a good bit of driving to find many higher end, but used, units.

 

There is a 2006 Carriage Cameo for sale in the classifieds. Just sayin. They are supposed to be GREAT units...and I don't think Lippert had much to do with them. Carriage is out of business, but they still have a VERY loyal following.

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Went to install my Lippert Flexair pinbox this afternoon and wouldn't you know it....the holes don't line up right! I figured this would be a simple install except the weight of the thing since Lippert made the chassis too, but it required a little tuning to get the bolts in.......

 

20150628_143319_zps06oksezu.jpg

 

 

Now that the bolts are all in it looks like I gained 2" which will be good for towing with the Pete, but on the Dodge may be 2" high now.....I'm all out of adjustment on every vehicle and as of right now the box flexes up and closes the gap in body before all the weight is set down on it.

 

20150628_194656_zpsiqcn5goh.jpg

 

I'll have to loosen things up and see if I can get it to drop enough to improve the body clearance. Pretty sure I will have to make clearance with a grinder on the front part of the pinbox so it will drop enough.

 

This poor aftermarket fitment seems to becoming an epidemic in all areas!

Howdy Tony,

 

The lack of clearance between the top of the hitch and the underside of the front of the trailer looks scary to me. I know that part of the hitch is not supposed to move but take my word on this hit a large bump at 60 mph and it will MOVE possibly causing $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ worth of hard to repair damage to the trailer. I also would NOT recommend modifying the hitch in any way, the minute you take a die-grinder to it your on your own if the hitch fails or it does flex and make contact with the trailer. Just my opinion and I may be mistaken.

 

Dave

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It is going to have to be modified in some way or another or it will be a boat anchor to me.......and I don't own a boat.

 

I know the lack of clearance wont work because it hits the trailer without a full load on it. I'm already 1-2" high so I can't drop to the next set of holes or I will be 3-4" too high. I figure a little more touchup on material that serves no purpose, I can loosen the bolts, and drop the nose down. With the 20" hanging off the front, it should net me 1"+.

 

Too hot to work outside right now and it's kind of stuck in the back yard till I get this figured out........ Good thing the next trip isn't for 3 months!

 

I'm kind of stuck here.....I can't send the hitch back and I need an air hitch.......

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There is a 2006 Carriage Cameo for sale in the classifieds. Just sayin. They are supposed to be GREAT units...and I don't think Lippert had much to do with them. Carriage is out of business, but they still have a VERY loyal following.

 

We're open to thoughts, but looking hard at Newmar X-Aire on the toy haulers side, and DRV if we choose to not have a garage. We did find a very nice '06 Newmar Torrey Pine locally too.

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I thought I read that Lippert bought DRV, but only recently. Prior to that I thought they used something else.

 

I know there are many DRV owners on here that seem to be happy.

DRV was bought by Thor and yes they do use Lippert frames but speced to a higher quality than most Lippert frames. Mine is an '05 and we have been happy.

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I thought I read that Lippert bought DRV, but only recently. Prior to that I thought they used something else.

 

I know there are many DRV owners on here that seem to be happy.

 

I agree that DRV has happy owners and seems to build a good unit. I just remember reading in Post #4 that you stated "no Lippert frames".

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Ahh, gotta love this forum. Just when you think you have it figured out, someone has more info for you to chew on. My learning curve has gotten steeper since I've been here.

 

So, please correct me if I'm wrong.... DRV has been using Lippert frames for a long time, but better quality units than other makes. And, Newmar uses frames of their own manufacture?

 

I've not heard anything negative about Newmar frames, or the X-Aire, though it appears to me the X is of (slightly) lower quality than many of their earlier units.

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It is going to have to be modified in some way or another or it will be a boat anchor to me.......and I don't own a boat.

 

I know the lack of clearance wont work because it hits the trailer without a full load on it. I'm already 1-2" high so I can't drop to the next set of holes or I will be 3-4" too high. I figure a little more touchup on material that serves no purpose, I can loosen the bolts, and drop the nose down. With the 20" hanging off the front, it should net me 1"+.

 

Too hot to work outside right now and it's kind of stuck in the back yard till I get this figured out........ Good thing the next trip isn't for 3 months!

 

I'm kind of stuck here.....I can't send the hitch back and I need an air hitch.......

stuck. maybe yes , maybe no...

 

dodge , get a Low profile 5th wheel hitch... and adjust the bolts on the trailAir down one slot.. then do what you got to do on the Big truck to get the height down.

 

personally myself , i run a rigid hitch on my Volvo (Modified 20K Hidden Hitch, Yes its a 4 way that came from my Dodge and the mount plate for the Volvo is done in 1/2" steel and plenty of gussets and C Channel welded together.) and i run the TrailAir (before Lippert bought them in 2007) that was stock on my 5th wheel when it was bought new. i got over 40K miles on this setup with absolutely no problems. ive had a couple of Very Hard bounces (not by choice) and no damage anywhere.

 

send me a PM if you need more info.

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stuck. maybe yes , maybe no...

 

dodge , get a Low profile 5th wheel hitch... and adjust the bolts on the trailAir down one slot.. then do what you got to do on the Big truck to get the height down.

 

personally myself , i run a rigid hitch on my Volvo (Modified 20K Hidden Hitch, Yes its a 4 way that came from my Dodge and the mount plate for the Volvo is done in 1/2" steel and plenty of gussets and C Channel welded together.) and i run the TrailAir (before Lippert bought them in 2007) that was stock on my 5th wheel when it was bought new. i got over 40K miles on this setup with absolutely no problems. ive had a couple of Very Hard bounces (not by choice) and no damage anywhere.

 

send me a PM if you need more info.

I'm using this with an air pin. Works great and is quite low profile.

 

http://www.trailersaverhitch.com/hitch32klp.html

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as of right now the box flexes up and closes the gap in body before all the weight is set down on it.

Cooter, I am NOT an RV repairman, but I live on-site RV repair facility. I saw a unit come in that had "a little" flex in the pin box and was amazed at all the broken welds in the frame all around the hitch after they took the skin off it. According to the guys here, if you can see the flex you probably have issues

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It has flexed like this from day one. Just about every time I pull it, the floor squeaks in a different location.

 

I suppose if it didn't flex some, it would break. If they built it like I would where it didn't flex, they could only sell them to us HDT owners!

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