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Sealant For Roof Installation


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... I live in Florida. There is no place local to buy it so I'm looking for alternatives...

Where are you in Florida? I have purchased Dicor Sealant at Camping World which has over a dozen locations in Florida. I have also purchased it at RV dealerships like Dick Gore's which has a couple of locations in Florida. In my experience, most RV dealerships with much of a supply store will carry the dicor sealant.

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Biker's link has the best prices as three tubes of the dicor lap sealant like C-10 cost ten bucks each there. PPL also has them, I'll link below.

 

You need two sealants. The first is butyl rubber tape, the second is lap sealant. This you put on the flanges to cover, or mark around where it will go with a dry erase marker and use one layer where the object (vent, pipe, etc.) and screws will be. Or permanent marker as when you apply the lap sealant linked to above, it will cover any marks. Do not just use lap sealant alone! Please watch this Dicor video. It is five minutes, and go out of your way to see it before you order or remove/add anything to your roof.

 

http://www.dicorproducts.com/videos-5/ and click on "Install an RV Roof Vent." This video is the only way to seal any roof penetration on an EPDM roof. I use the butyl rubber tape, and self leveling lap sealant sold at any mobile home supply. Way cheaper than anything with "RV" labeling or sold in an RV dealer's place.

 

All these supplies can be ordered. PPL is the exception to high RV parts and sells parts cheaper than most. Here is your first sealant the butyl rubber tape: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/48463.htm

 

Here's the lap sealant there:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/49487.htm

 

Follow that video and use those two sealants, the butyl rubber tape, then the self leveling lap sealant, and you'll have done it correctly. Whether Dycor C-10 or the dicor lap sealant makes no difference except price. I've done my own power vents and vent covers, fridge vents, pipes, and A/C replacements myself as they are just too easy if you can get up there safely. The only exception on any "rubber" RV roof is the A/C, which uses a foam square donut and four bolts to seal. All the rest must be done exactly as the video clearly shows.

 

Safe and sealed travels!

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Good info and thanks. I often use butyl tape in installing deck fittings on boats. I have order the tape from PPL and the sealant from Amazon. One more question. I am installing a satellite dish and would like some info on securing the coax to the roof. Chuck

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I am installing a satellite dish and would like some info on securing the coax to the roof.

Lay the cable flat on the roof. Put a dab of Dicor on the top of it and let it run down on the roof on both sides of it.

Now move another 1' down the cable and do it again. etc.

 

That has held my DataStorm and Winegard cables to my roof for over 12 years with no problem.

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That makes sense Biker.

 

Chuck, Jack did an article about running his cell antenna power and other lines with pictures of a box that I'm sure someone else can link to. But Biker's solution sounds best and easiest - elegant engineering.

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Lay the cable flat on the roof. Put a dab of Dicor on the top of it and let it run down on the roof on both sides of it.

Now move another 1' down the cable and do it again. etc..

I have used that same method with similar success. When checking and resealing the roof, also take a look at the spots holding the coaxial cables and replace that if needed. It can crack but is easily replaced. I'd also pull the cable snug before you start to stick them down as that minimizes the amount of movement that they can make while on the highway.

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  • 1 month later...

When you apply roof sealant to screw heads, fixture edges, etc - why doesn't anyone smooth out the application - say with a wet finger or a brush. Most roofs look like all the sealant was just gobbed on. Even the instructions on the caulk or installation instructions for fans, etc make no mention of smoothing out the sealant for cosmetic reasons. Most say just gob it on and leave it. Why?

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Guest THE TRAILERKING

Don't use anything other than Dicor 501 or 502 self-levelling sealant for flat surfaces. No need to smooth with fingers, it flows out fairly flat. Use 551 non-sagging for any non-flat areas.

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I tried smoothing some that I was using on my solar system and the ones I tried looked much worse than the ones I left to settle on their own.

If you are using a "self leveling" caulk the finger trick doesn't accomplish much, if anything because the self leveling means that it migrates into openings and cracks and in that process the exterior of the material also changes and will not remain as it is when you lift that wet finger. I learned the same way that Stanley did, but then did some investigation and found that information in a Q&A column about Dicor.

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  • 3 months later...

A commercial roofing contractor is going to have no RV experience and if they try to use their normal commercial roofing tools will likely destroy your roof.

 

If you want someone to do it right look for an RV repair place that understands luan plywood underlayment and RV roof fittings, not somebody used to power-scraping old rubber roofing off concrete.

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