chuckbear Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I took our new to us 1999 Bounder 34 out for a drive a few days ago. A new noise developed in a fairly short order. Almost, but not every time, I stop and then press down on the accelerator there is a "clunk" sound that appears to be coming from under the coach and sounds like it is very near the drivers seat. It only happens when either at a complete stop or at almost a complete stop and the transmission is in the lowest gear. It happens more than it doesn't, but sometimes it does not. I don't hear the noise at any other time. This just started, it was not there when we purchased the coach a week ago and drove it home. Anyone have a thought as to what I might look for or anyone had this same issue? Thanks. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 If this is a front gas engine the first thing I'd be suspicious of is a U Joint in the drivetrain. Your description matches a badU Joint pretty much exactly. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 If this is a front gas engine the first thing I'd be suspicious of is a U Joint in the drivetrain. Your description matches a badU Joint pretty much exactly. I agree.with Jack..Block your wheels and put rig in neutral and go under and start wiggling drivline close to ujoint up, down, and sideways also see if brake caliper is loose someone may have left loose bolts as they worked on it. Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horizon36 Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Another vote for U joint. Follow Jim n Sue instructions. Full time since August 2010 2002 Itasca Horizon One fur kid - a Shih-Tsu rescue Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double-Trouble Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I'm going to go against the grain and suggest a bad trans mount or motor mount flexing under power and clunking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Thanks, I'll give it a look this weekend. Any thoughts on what repair cost might be? Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblscooper Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Thanks, I'll give it a look this weekend. Any thoughts on what repair cost might be? Chuck That can be more readily determined when the cause of the problem is found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socaltoolguy Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I'm going with either motor mounts, trans mount or a driveshaft center support. Center support bearing would give you a different sound. Ray 2001 Fleetwood Southwind 32V 2011 Scion XB toad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 That can be more readily determined when the cause of the problem is found. I was referring to the cost to replace the front U joints. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 What chassis is your Bounder on? While a U joint is clearly a possible cause, the Ford chassis also has a plate with bolts that must be torqued to proper tension just next to the front universal that should be checked. If it isn't in the universal joint area, then I would take a close look at the mounts for the transmission to the cross-member next and after that the rear motor-mounts. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 It is a Ford Chassis. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief 62 Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 If you find the problem to be a u joint, replace all of them and also have the drive shaft balanced. Gary & Penny 2015 Lance 1172 2005 Chevy 3500 2013 Bass Tracker 190 Pro Team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 The plate I'm speaking of is at the transmission side of the first U joint. Some early ones had problems with the bolts loosening and I know of one case where the plate came off and the RV lost the drive-line. I was made aware of it with our F53 (V10 powered) and so I bought the special socket needed for it and carried it and a torque wrench with me for all of the time that I owned it. I used to check it each time that I lubed the drive-line but never did find mine at all loose so it may have been a fluke, but take a look just to be sure. If you are new to this chassis, yours will have 14 grease points, if the same one we had. With a 99 coach you may have one of the previous year's chassis with the 460 and I think that it was different. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thanks Kirk, Where did you find the "special socket" and is it a universal size? I'll take a look today and give it a closer inspection. But I suspect that without that socket I won't be able to check to see if it's loose. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I don't remember the size but it was a 10 point socket (pretty available) where more common ones are 8 point. I believe that I got the information on it from my chassis manual, but it might have been from the Ford Motor-home Chassis Hotline as I did get some information from them. You can probably tell if it is the problem just by trying to move it by hand, much like checking for a work universal joint. If you don't have a chassis owner's manual, I believe that you can get one from this link. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Thanks Kirk. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnaykeByte Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 I'm going to go against the grain and suggest a bad trans mount or motor mount flexing under power and clunking. +1 here "JOE DIRT"--1994 Volvo WIA64TES VED12, 425HP, SUPER 10, SINGLED, 370 REARS, DOMETIC AUXILLARY A/C, ONAN QD10000 GENNY2006 Fleetwood Wilderness Advantage AX6 40ft"I'm not in right now.......I'm out finding myself. If I get back before I return, leave me a message and one of us will get back to you..??" I'm right 97% of the time.........and nobody cares about the other 4% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 +1 here I'm going with either motor mounts, trans mount or a driveshaft center support. Center support bearing would give you a different sound. Ray All very possible. But a U Joint is the most likely thing, statistically, IMO. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 I hope we get an answer soon or I may suggest muffler bearings Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 It's in the shop today so hopefully the mechanic will have an answer soon. I'll post when I know for sure. Thanks to all the responded. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Here's waht the mechanic tells me. There is apparently a "drum" around the drive shaft that somehow assists with the breaking. The noise is coming from inside this "drum" Don't have any further details yet. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Oh ok thats the emergency brake I thought that design went out of style 100 years ago Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbear Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Obviously still in style in 1999. Chuck Chuck and Susan 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34 Triton V10 on Ford Chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Here's waht the mechanic tells me. There is apparently a "drum" around the drive shaft that somehow assists with the breaking. The noise is coming from inside this "drum" Don't have any further details yet. Chuck That drum is the parking brake and it is found on most gas powered class A RVs. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 That drum is the parking brake and it is found on most gas powered class A RVs. Glad you said parking Kirk and not emergency because we found out 50 years or so ago that the drum would heat up instantly due to the small diameter undernieth a 2 ton truck we had and besides sending smoke signals became totally useless Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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