Charles Baidoo Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I am new to the forum, however, I trust that this is the best place to find answers to my problems and questions. I own a 2001 Volvo Truck with a 10 speed Eaton Fuller Generation (I) Auto-shift Transmission. When I start the Engine, the Neutral (N) indicator on the shift BLINKS and will not stop Blinking. Even after shifting to Drive (D) position, it will not stop Blinking and hence the Transmission will not Power up and the truck will not Move. I have changed the ELECTRIC SHIFTER but I still encounter the Same problem. What could possibly be wrong with my transmission? I Would kindly appreciate your technical advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Mine blinks when I am not in neutral or there is some other type of malfunction. Could it be the clutch and or brake cutout switch(s) out of adjustment? Does your high idle work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I am new to the forum, however, I trust that this is the best place to find answers to my problems and questions. I own a 2001 Volvo Truck with a 10 speed Eaton Fuller Generation (I) Auto-shift Transmission. When I start the Engine, the Neutral (N) indicator on the shift BLINKS and will not stop Blinking. Even after shifting to Drive (D) position, it will not stop Blinking and hence the Transmission will not Power up and the truck will not Move. I have changed the ELECTRIC SHIFTER but I still encounter the Same problem. What could possibly be wrong with my transmission? I Would kindly appreciate your technical advice. A blinking gear number, with what looks like arrow down, means the input shaft sensor is still sensing movement. A flashing gear number, means let the clutch up slightly, slowly to let the gears mesh properly. I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreyandSusan Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Charles Welcome to the forum. You will probably get a much quicker answer if you post directly to the HDT forum with a new post. Navigate to the HDT Forum Once there look at the right side of the page a little ways down and you will see the Start a New Topic Button Title the topic something short that describes your issue and then give more details in the body of the topic post. The question you have asked is at the end of a topic that discusses something completely different than what you need to know. You will probably get a pretty quick answer to this question. One possible simple thing to do is to disconnect the battery cables for a few minutes. (Allows the computers ECUs to reset) Connect them back and try again. Next simple thing might be a loose cable connection under the truck on the transmission. Then it starts getting more complicated and others can give much better counsel than I on this issue. Take care and again welcome. Susan & Trey Selman | email | HDT: '01 770 VED12 | 5er: '02 40' Travel Supreme RLTSOA | '16 Piaggio MP3 500 | '15 Smart Cabrio | Personal Blog | HHRV Resource Guide | HHRV Campgrounds | Recreation Vehicle Safety & Education Foundation | Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffinmike Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 You buy the right tow vehicle to handle the trailer. If you dont know the specs for the trailer then how will you know what the right tow vehicle configuration is that you need? If you dont know where you are going then it really doesnt make any difference how you get there. Wandering1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finally03gt Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Wow, great infor for a newbie, kicking the idea around. OP, for what it's worth, Ford has some great numbers right now. 23k# 5th wheel towing, 6800# payload, 32K# GCVWR. By my math, that pulls nearly any 5'r I've looked at in the 35-40' range with gross up to 17,000#, and still some "wiggle" room. Actually really close to the 80% mentioned, depending on 5'r. I'm in fact finding mode myself, but starting to lean toward MDT/HDT. I had a hard time getting my DW to even concede to a dually, so I may not be able to pull that one....haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBH Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Remember the 250's, 350's even 450's and 550's are called light duty trucks for a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance Williams Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 About HDT insurance .where is best best too shop forthat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Wow, great infor for a newbie, kicking the idea around. OP, for what it's worth, Ford has some great numbers right now. 23k# 5th wheel towing, 6800# payload, 32K# GCVWR. By my math, that pulls nearly any 5'r I've looked at in the 35-40' range with gross up to 17,000#, and still some "wiggle" room. Actually really close to the 80% mentioned, depending on 5'r. I'm in fact finding mode myself, but starting to lean toward MDT/HDT. I had a hard time getting my DW to even concede to a dually, so I may not be able to pull that one....haha. Just don't get suckered by looking at the great numbers Ford and the others publish! The numbers are calculated on a very unrealistic basis, one you'd never consider as practical. First you have to diet until you weigh 150 pounds, the good news is your spouse doesn't need to diet because she won't be riding in the truck. Yep a single 150 pound driver and no passengers. Good that the spouse will not be riding with you as they can carry all the stuff not considered when towing which is pretty much anything like owner's manuals, accessories, options and in many cases spare and jack. I think you get to keep the wipers and gas cap though. Remember the hitch and mounting bits are not considered part of the truck so it comes out of the tow and combined ratings. Check carefully to see if any of the options you are wanting add to the tow rating (like lower gears) or subtract from it like upgraded trim or interiors. The base truck for the numbers doesn't have any options on it that don't improve the tow rating so check carefully. Look at the gears specified in that test, if you get low enough gears you can tow a lot but driving at highway speeds will really spin the engine. You have to decide what you like least the loud noise or the low MPG but you get both anyway. Driving 50 MPH will help but you may well hate that too. Good news, the spouse won't be too ticked about having to walk carrying that stuff because you only get 1/8th tank of fuel, dual tanks one is empty for the test so you won't go far. You'll have to take a Saws-All to your fiver too, gotta get the frontal area down to 60 square feet, that may not make the spouse happy. Not good as you don't have the fuel to get very far away from the unhappiness. More seriously: Look very very carefully at the rules and assumptions behind the numbers and correct the weights based on the real world and not Manufacturer's Fantasy Land numbers. A shortcut is to just use 80% of the published numbers, good enough for shopping BUT run the real numbers before you sign anything! First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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