JPtravel Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 We started full timing last year and did not know the first thing about anything. After we bought our truck we took it to a RV repair shop in the area to install the hitch. They sold 3 rated for different weights. After they installed it, I made the guy come out and show me how to use it. It is a slide bar type. He suggested putting a pin or small pad lock in the hole so the bar would not come loose or someone being "funny" and move the bar. We went right to Homedepot and bought a small pad lock. So as soon as the pin goes in the slot and I can move the bar, I put the lock on with the break cord attached. I assumed I was safe. I have never heard of a pull test before. An FYI: our first FW had a white disk on the king pin so I could easily see where I was at when connecting and disconnecting. Our brand new FW has a black disk and I hate it. You can not judge the space between the hitch and pin. As soon as I get somewhere that sells the disks, I am buying a white one again. 2016 Keystone Laredo 355 RL 2008 Ford F350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 I suggest grease the hitch pin on the trailer so that it can move in the jaws (or whatever) in the hitch. George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 We have run into a new Binkley head that did not have enough clearance to use the 1/8" Teflon pad. The old head could with a 1/4" disk. Not liking grease, we are going to try SLIP dry graphic lubricant. Please click for Emails instead of PM Mark & DaleJoey - 2016 Bounder 33C Tige - 2006 40' Travel SupremeSparky III - 2021 Mustang Mach-e, off the the Road since 2019 Useful HDT Truck, Trailer, and Full-timing Info atwww.dmbruss.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimalberta Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 another suggestion is to paint the bottom lip of the pin white. then when you do your visual you can see if that lip is below the jaws or not. <p>....JIM and LINDA......2001 American Eagle 40 '.towing a GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 with RZR in the rear. 1999 JEEP Cherokee that we tow as well. IT IS A CONTENTED MAN WHO CAN APPRECIATE THE SCENERY ALONG A DETOUR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffinmike Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 If the hitch is locked and you are not high hitched then 5th wheel hitches dont let loose. When you are high hitched the hitch pin is wedged between the top of the hitch jaws and the hitch plate. This is easily detected when you walk around behind the truck and look at the hitch to make sure the jaws are wrapped around the hitch pin. Wandering1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffinmike Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 I suggest grease the hitch pin on the trailer so that it can move in the jaws (or whatever) in the hitch. Not necessary and creates a mess. Wandering1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 This is easily detected when you walk around behind the truck and look at the hitch to make sure the jaws are wrapped around the hitch pin. I have seen the jaws fully wrapped around the pin, edges touching, and the jaws were not locked as evidenced when the trailer pulled out. Please click for Emails instead of PM Mark & DaleJoey - 2016 Bounder 33C Tige - 2006 40' Travel SupremeSparky III - 2021 Mustang Mach-e, off the the Road since 2019 Useful HDT Truck, Trailer, and Full-timing Info atwww.dmbruss.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Not necessary and creates a mess. I dont agree. The pin needs to be able to move with in the jaws of the hitch. There is no mess. Pins that are bright and shinny are wearing. George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 I dont agree. The pin needs to be able to move with in the jaws of the hitch. There is no mess. Pins that are bright and shinny are wearing. I also believe that a lack of grease could have caused or contributed to the OPs problem. George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffinmike Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 I dont agree. The pin needs to be able to move with in the jaws of the hitch. There is no mess. Pins that are bright and shinny are wearing. For 15 years my hitch pin was always able to move in the hitch jaws without wearing without any grease. Wandering1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffinmike Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Always, always, always do a pull test with the fiver wheels blocked and the landing legs an inch off the ground. You can be high hitched with the pin wedged in between the top of the jaws and the bottom of the hitch plate and the hitch wont come out until you have driven a ways turning and putting a strain on the hitch. Always look to see that the jaws are wrapped around the hitch pin and the latch is locked, this has worked much better than pull tests for me for 15 years. Wandering1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Yokum Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 You can be high hitched with the pin wedged in between the top of the jaws and the bottom of the hitch plate and the hitch wont come out until you have driven a ways turning and putting a strain on the hitch. Always look to see that the jaws are wrapped around the hitch pin and the latch is locked, this has worked much better than pull tests for me for 15 years. Different strokes for different folks... Blue Ox sells lots of Bedsavers to folks who believe in "Murphy". Check and double check ("GOAL" and then a pull test) is time well spent. Whether *you* choose to spend the/that time while wandering about - is your choice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 For 15 years my hitch pin was always able to move in the hitch jaws without wearing without any grease. Thanks for sharing. George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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