Shocks

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Started looking for shocks for this '98 610 Volvo.

Is there any significant difference in the Volvo brand and Monroe's? Any better place to buy them besides Class8 Truck parts? Already soaking the bolts, and planning on buying a Dewalt electric impact to help with the removal.

If the bolts have to be cut, are they a "Volvo Dealer Only" part or will most shops have the correct hardware?

 

[adept99]

As long as the bolts don't have any "unique" characteristics such as shoulders or lands to prevent over-tightening, a good grade 8 bolt should be fine. Be sure to check the thread length vs the untheaded barrel length. The untheaded barrel is sometimes used as it's own land to prevent over-tightening.

 

You didn't mention what you were soaking the bolts with, a good home remedy is about a 50/50 mix of acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid, any kind will work. Right up there with Kroil.

 

Paul & Paula

[NeverEasy]

Never heard of the ATF/Acetone blend. I will try it on some rusty bolts tomorrow. PB Blaster has not helped.

 

Probably not too good around paint

 

.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Yea, be careful with Acetone around paint. I'm currently using up the selection of PB Blaster, WD-40, a little liquid wrench, and whatever else I've got handy.

 

The back shock bolts would be easy to cut, all the bushings are gone on both sides, top and bottom. A cut-off wheel and hammer the stud thru if needed, the front mounts ought to be interesting though

[Nuke-E]

There are lots of places that will have the shocks--RockAuto had one of the best prices when I was looking, but even Amazon (Prime) wasn't much more. As far as Monroes vs. new Volvos, I wouldn't know--but new Monroes are far better than old Volvos!

[ray.service]

Stengel Bros or NicksTruckParts. Both In PA and good prices. Good service

[adept99]

Where did you folks find the OEM part numbers. The local dealer here is sometimes less than helpful about stuff like that.

[NeverEasy]

A&J,

I neglected last night to comment on your choice of electric impacts. I bought the Dewalt that will produce 345 ft lbs. The best I could find in a corded unit. However, it will not remove my 5th wheel lug nuts torqued to 110 ft lbs on install. A friend bought a Milwaukee 2663-22 battery powered thing that will go up to 450 ft lbs. It removed the nuts easily.

 

Air tools are usually the best. The "hot wrench" helps to break any of them free if it can be used. If I wanted to save the bolts and did not care about burning up rubber bushings the hot wrench is the place to start.

 

 

 

 

[Hewhoknowslittle]

Jim,

I changed my shocks out just before the ECR with Monroe shocks.No problems with the bolts, and I have reused my old bolts with the new shocks.

both the front and rear bolts and nuts are different sizes, so the socket tray went under the bed with me.

Used my Milwaukee 1/2 inch fuel high torque impact, no problems, but my truck was always a desert unit, no rust to speak of.

Monroe numbers are

65494 gas magnum list 111.36 ea cost me 60.55 each

65466 gas magnum list 121.22 cost me 65.91 each

 

Hope this helps,

 

Roger

[rdickinson]

I put a ball valve and 1/4" air fitting in the trailer brake line in the glad hand area. The 3/8" drive air ratchet spins on and removes the cap screws fastening the ramps to the deck, airs up my tires and drops the rear stabilizers in short order.

 

A 3/8" airline would provide a lot more power.

 

A bit noisy though.

 

The circuit is activated by the red trailer brake knob on the dash.

[Mastercraft]

If you like Gabriel

 

Cab GAB83048 $36

 

Rear GAB89448 $55

 

 

The rears are adjustable with the center position similar to stock

 

Prices were from Summit Racing ....free shipping

[Sehc]

Be carfull with a tourch heating shocks. The heat can travel the shaft as well as the cylinder. I have seen more than a few explode.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Be carfull with a tourch heating shocks. The heat can travel the shaft as well as the cylinder. I have seen more than a few explode.

I've seen that happen, but on this old truck the shocks would have to have seals and pressure in them.....

Yea, that bad!

[T.Gamo]

Has anyone tried the RoadKing brand for shocks? I was giving them some consideration but not sure the price is justified.

[adept99]

Just got done changing the front shocks on our 2001 770 volvo. Once I figured out how to break the code, pretty easy.

Soak the nuts and bolts overnight with the penetrant of your choice. Next day, fit a metal heat shield/heat sink (I used a piece of 3/16 aluminum scrap) behind the upper shock mount bolt. On the driver's side, tie the brake lines down out of your way. Heat the nut & don't worry too much about even heat. Big thing here is don't burn the plastic wheel well liner. Next, using your good 1/2" impact, and without holding the nut, impact the bolt. It should be tight but should turn. One or two turns is enough. Just so you know the bolt will turn free. Now, put your 15/16" hold back wrench on the nut. Put the 15/16" impact socket (a standard socket will break - trust me) on a 1/2" ratchet and a 4' cheater pipe on that. CAREFULLY apply enough pressure to break the nut loose and back it off about 1/2 to 1 turn. Use the impact to finish removing the nut.

 

Bottom is the same but doesn't need the heat shield. Use the original bolts with a bit of never-sieze on the threads for reassembly.

 

Gabriel shocks are not gas shocks, are hydraulic only and can be pulled or pushed easily to fit the mounting brackets. Figure about 30 minutes per side not counting prep & cleanup.

 

Paul