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How to know when to replace air conditioner


etu

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We have a 2004 Keystone Challenger 5er in great condition. It has a Carrier Air V which works fine but I know Carrier does not make this ac today. So if some component goes out in the ac I know I'll probably have to replace the unit. The model I have the blower runs continuously while the compressor cycles on/off to maintain cool setting. We have a ducted system and the airflow to the bedroom over the 5th wheel is just only adequate. It does seem to get cooler in the main room even after balancing air registers to the best I can.

 

How do you know if the AC unit is performing as well as it should? Can I assume since the compressor cycles and cools ok that it is really ok or is there a better way to measure efficiency?

 

Do newer units have more airflow and do the fans cycle on/off once cool setting is obtained?

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I had a 2004 Keystone Challenger and the fan on the A/C cycled with the compressor- fan on for short time, compressor on, temp satisfied, compressor off, fan run a little then off. I added a second A/C in bedroom to keep it cool. I don't think one A/C will keep RV cool in hot weather.

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How do you know if the AC unit is performing as well as it should? Can I assume since the compressor cycles and cools ok that it is really ok or is there a better way to measure efficiency?

Using a dial thermometer, measure first the air temperature at the inlet to the a/c unit, preferably just outside of the place that air is drawn into the cooling coils. Allow the thermometer to stay in place for several minutes to be sure that it has stabilized and then note the reading. Next, using that same thermometer, place it into the discharge of the cooling coils, near the discharge where the cool air enters the ducts, rather than at the discharge from the ducts into the space as there will be heat gain as the air travels through the ducts. The temperature of that air should drop by at least 18° in passing through the coils and the ideal change is 22-24°. Anything more than that and the coils are in danger of freezing up and less means that it has begun to loose cooling capacity.

 

That loss of cooling could mean anything from loss of refrigerant to degrading of the compressor.

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Or the AC may just not be big enough for your RV. Our previous 5th wheel 32ft had a 15,500 unit that would freeze you out. A small 13k would have handled the front

Do you have the fan on auto? If so it should cycle on and off with the unit. If you have it set on high or low it will run continuously

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Thanks Kirk. Ill do these tests.

 

Waroland you had a carrier with a later serial number than mine. They made the update (like yours) during the 2004 year. Did the ac unit you put in your bedroom install in the existing roof vent in that room?

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Our living room unit cooled well. It pulled condensate in thru the vents though. Seems it could be fixed but after about 6 months of different shops, Dometic help, my help we replaced it. The newer unit has better air flow but is louder. Actually seems to cool better likely due to increases air flow.

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Thanks Kirk. Ill do these tests.

 

Waroland you had a carrier with a later serial number than mine. They made the update (like yours) during the 2004 year. Did the ac unit you put in your bedroom install in the existing roof vent in that room?

Yes and the power was already in place. It was a stand alone unit with built-in thermostat.

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