12 volt charge line from HDT to RV

[On The Road]

Yes, #6 will likely be enough. Especially if you do a high voltage system. If you do a low voltage system, and it is very large then the #6 may be a little light. It all "depends".....But there is no real problem designing around #6.

Thanks Jack,

I will send you an email with what I "Think" I would like to have, Thanks for the offer to help design

[Dollytrolley]

One thing to foks might want to keep in mind..........as you "upgrade" to larger (6 ga) and LARGER (welder cables) DC power has a nasty habit of becoming a WELDER when ever a large cable becomes grounded.

 

I have always been amazed that DC power cables seem to not be able to carry the power that you want them to carry....... UNTIL they become grounded.......then once grounded as a dead short these cables sure carry enough power to get the fire & smoke in action......

 

Fuses are a pain at times .......BUT, sometimes BLOWN FUSES are a good thing........Don't forget to fuse these large lines........

[TomMarik]

Yes, I often use the umbilical cord to power the tire pressure monitor or some interior lights while the truck batteries are disconnected.

[phoenix2013]

I was checking the wiring on my Volvo 610 which I am using a Jackalopee. I have the 12VDC needed to charge the RV batteries hooked up on option one which is BLU 12v AUX line pluged in to the +12V direct which gives me 12V going to the trailer with the switch key on. I am getting the correct voltage at the rear plug on the truck which is about 13.6 with truck running. If my rv batteries are showing 12.6 when I plug in to trailer, it does not seam to raise this any. I checked the trailer plug and correct 12V in the trailer plug is going to the batteries. How many amp charge should I get to the trailer, I have 4 6V batteries on the trailer and a 2800 watt inverter, also a residential fridge. Is their a better way to wire the Jackalopee like option two or option three so I can get more amps to the trailer batteries? Should I ever be able to bring the trailer voltage on the batteries to what I am showing on the truck batteries? The only thing running off the trailer batteries is the inverter which is only powering the fridge.

You have a "serious" battery bank in your fifth and charging it from the "+12 AUX" circuit (blue wire) probably amounts to no more than a trickle charge. Particularly combined with the distance involved and the gauges of wires involved over that distance. At the minimum I would try option two or three on the Jackalopee using 10 gauge wire from the batteries to the Jackalopee to see if you get more "action" at the battery bank and that's a pretty inexpensive alternative. If this doesn't improve things significantly, then you have gotten plenty of good advise from other posters up to this point.

[On The Road]

You have a "serious" battery bank in your fifth and charging it from the "+12 AUX" circuit (blue wire) probably amounts to no more than a trickle charge. Particularly combined with the distance involved and the gauges of wires involved over that distance. At the minimum I would try option two or three on the Jackalopee using 10 gauge wire from the batteries to the Jackalopee to see if you get more "action" at the battery bank and that's a pretty inexpensive alternative. If this doesn't improve things significantly, then you have gotten plenty of good advise from other posters up to this point.

Thanks Phoenix,

I can do either 2 or 3. Which, in your opinion, would be the best?

[phoenix2013]

The relay is rated for 40 Amps switching and 60 Amps direct. 10 gauge wire is rated for 30 Amps, 8 gauge wire is rated for 50 Amps. The yellow push on terminals go up to 12-10 gauge wire, you can insert an 8 gauge wire into these if you trim few strands off before crimping. The outgoing wire will be either 10 or 12 gauge depending on the type or RV cable you buy. You want to help the current as much as you can, so even if only portion of it is higher gauge (incoming run) it makes a difference with voltage drops and current flow. The AUX line is quite limited in current (I believe 20 Amps depending on the truck) since it was designed to be used to power ABS modules in the trailer and maybe some cargo area lights

[Scrap]

Take a look at installing a Trail Charger in the trailer. They are made to solve just this voltage drop & charging problem. The 20A unit will plug right into the AUX circuit and most existing (commercial) trailer wiring and is by far the most common. The 50A big guy usually requires a dual pole trailer cable & connections and its own dedicated wiring so it might be more of a pain than it is worth.

[Jack Mayer]

Very sweet, Scrap! You have the coolest stuff to play with. I need to get a job like yours.

 

It would not take much to get the 50 going....A couple of Anderson connectors and some #4 wire would probably be all you would need, although if I was bothering I'd probably just run #2. I'd be concerned with protecting the alternator, though.