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120 volt into RV


GVJeeper

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You may want to consider an outlet that is located next to the inside of one of your outside storage bays and then have it wired to a good, heavy duty power cord that is kept in the bay when not in use and connected when needed.

 

Only outside bay is under the bed...it's a TT and they don't have outside storage like 5ers/Class A.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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Only outside bay is under the bed...it's a TT and they don't have outside storage like 5ers/Class A.

Our travel trailer is that way also, but there are some that have outside access storage the under the dinette seats as well and possibly other places. It also depends upon where yours are and where you want to place the heater. If you had such storage it would be very easy to just use a hole saw to make access for both ends of a heavy extension cord, one into the RV and the other out of the storage bay to access the power pedestal. I have actually done that but it does need to be close to the place you use the heater.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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...I'm 35 ft long so the bedroom needs a portable heater...Only outside bay is under the bed...

Without knowing the actual design/layout of your trailer, it sounds like there might be an easy way to put an outlet on one of the sides of the bed pedestal or under a closet or wardrobe with the cord in the storage bay. In a previous trailer, the back of the outlet boxes for bedroom were actually accessible from the storage bay. It was an easy task to rewire them to a separate circuit to connect to the power pedestal.

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Our travel trailer is that way also, but there are some that have outside access storage the under the dinette seats as well and possibly other places. It also depends upon where yours are and where you want to place the heater. If you had such storage it would be very easy to just use a hole saw to make access for both ends of a heavy extension cord, one into the RV and the other out of the storage bay to access the power pedestal. I have actually done that but it does need to be close to the place you use the heater.

 

The only storage is under the bed - it's accesible by lifting the bed or thru an outside door (another design flaw...if you can get into the storage from the outside you can just get into the rig by pushing up on the bed). I could make a hole on the bed pedestal but then I would have to run the cord out the storage door..thus leaving it open and unlocked which makes my storage area open to anyone who cared to raid it (or enter my rig thru this stupid design flaw).

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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I guess a lot of this depends on where you are and what you pay for - for example, in AZ and TX, most of the parks meter your electricity. So, it becomes a moot point as to whether to heat with an electrical heater or with gas (furnace or heater). When we boondock in AZ during the winter, it gets cold at night, sometimes dropping to the mid 30's. We use a blue-flame gas heater, and it keeps us toasty warm. I also use a CPAP machine, so I like to conserve my on-board resources for that as well.

 

The only places I've stayed at that charge for power are when you stay for a month at their monthly rate. Any time less than a month don't charge extra (CA, NV, AZ, UT, MT, OR, WA, ID) so it's free.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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Other possibilities:

1 - Take a screen off a window and run the extension cord in the window (but a source for cold air/rain through the window which defeats main reason: a heater)

2 - Convert one of the outside TV plugs (but it's on the opposite side of the RV as the pedestal and would require a much longer extension cord AND I don't know how to rewire it...but could learn)

3 - Through the bay door (which makes my storaged items exposed and leaves easy access into my RV)

4 - Pay an electrician $$$ (to fix another RV design flaw)

5 - Hire one of you guys (housecalls anyone?) lol

6 - Drop it through the slide out (which gets my vote)

 

Yes, I'm just rambling and thinking out loud.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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I was thinking of using something of this sort to put the cord through...

 

41u6fqg2j2L._AA160_.jpg31%2Bfns%2BC6oL._AA160_.jpg31MnWViPlAL._AA160_.jpg

 

I have the center one for using RV propane on my bbq. I'll check these out.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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Why not just do it right? It is not that expensive ($19 for the power inlet, and probably $10 for a good commercial electrical receptacle and plastic box and cover, and maybe $5 of wire). If you have space to push through an extension cord then you have space to run the #12 wire required to wire up the outlet you add. Under the bed is a good example....just put the outlet into the side of the bed box.

 

Just a thought.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Just to add a bit to Jacks thoughts, here are some cost comparisons starting with three 120 Volt 20 Amp RV Power Inlets from like $27 to $30

 

(A)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marinco-200BBIWRV-Power-Inlet-20-Amp-White/151475313995?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D30002%26meid%3Ddaf3e2e487a4410897bae08e567f1352%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D14

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Amp-Power-Inlet-White-200BBIW-RV-/141595698504?hash=item20f7c2e548

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marinco-200BBIW-RV-White-20-Amp-125V-Straight-Blade-Power-Inlet-/321686764453?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae6067ba5

 

 

(B)

 

Then here's a 125 volt 20 amp NEMA 5-20R Duplex Receptacle for $14

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pass-Seymour-CRB5362WCC12-20-Amp-125-volt-Construction-Grade-Duplex-Receptacle-/261746106356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cf1489ff4

 

©

 

Next if you use a rectangular plastic handy box to mount the receptacle they are less then $5.

 

(D) 12/2 w/Ground Romex Wire (depends on how long you need) cost shouldn't be over $10

 

TOTAL COST TO DO IT RIGHT (or at least what I consider right lol) USING 20 AMP RATED DEVICES (ONLY way I would to power a heater that may be 1500 + Watts, but 15 amp will still "work" and save you a few bucks)

 

$27 + $14 + $4 + $10 FIFTY FIVE BUCKS

 

NOTE you may need to also purchase a NEMA 5-20R 120 Volt 20 Amp Cord End Receptacle for the RV end of your 12/3 extension Cord to plug into the RV's new 20 Amp Power Inlet!!!!!!!!!!! A 15 amp NEMA 5-15R will NOT fit into the 20 Amp RV Power Inlet shown above, one blade is 90 degrees rotated.

 

Again, your RV your money your choice, just one more thought before we close this out

 

PS this may be cheaper at Lowes or Home Depot, maybe get it all for fifty bucks????

 

 

John T Are we havin fun yet lol

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Just to add a bit to Jacks thoughts, here are some cost comparisons starting with three 120 Volt 20 Amp RV Power Inlets from like $27 to $30

 

Let me ask a (dumb?) question: can I get the first Marinco receptacle and attach a 12/3 extension cords wires (cut off the plug on the end) to the back of the Marinco - which would be on the outside wall of my RV (and the extension cord out the back of the Marinco going into my RV?

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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post-47573-0-07007200-1430413662_thumb.jpgGV, as far as I'm concerned there are no dumb questions, but Ive seen dumb answers before lol

 

If I understand your question the answer is YES. On the back of that Marinco you could attach three No 12 Wires of say an extension cord (or whatever) that had the Male Plug removed, and then use the Female receptacle end of that extension cord to feed a heater or whatever. The alternative Jack and I spoke of envisioned you run the wires (from back of Marinco Power Inlet) to an internal standard duplex receptacle like the receptacle picture I linked. But your proposal will work okay. Typical standard wiring would be the BLACK is the Ungrounded HOT conductor,,,,,,,,,White is the Grounded Neutral Conductor,,,,,,,,,,,,,Green is the Equipment Grounding Conductor. On wiring devices the brass or darker colored screw terminal is for the Black/Hot Ungrounded Conductor,,,,,,,,,,,Silver or lighter colored terminal is for the White Grounded Neutral Conductor,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Green is for Equipment GroundING Conductor

 

PS, the outside 12/3 power cord from the RV Pedestal to your new Marinco Power Inlet will look like the picture as it has to fit into that 20 Amp Marinco Power Inlet. Its a NEMA 5-20R 20 amp 125 volt female receptacle cord end.

 

 

 

Youre getting there

 

John T

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I put a Noco Genius AC port plug with integrated extension cord on my truck to pass power from the outside to inside. It works great and I have been very happy with it. It already has an integrated plug on the inside so no need to wire one up.

2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift
2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard
2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan
2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage)
2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)
My First Solar Install Thread
My Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the build
My MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet!

chadheiser.com      West Coast HDT Rally Website

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AZCACOIDIAKSMNMOMTNENVNMNDOKSDTNTXUTWYxlg.jpg

 

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I put a Noco Genius AC port plug with integrated extension cord on my truck to pass power from the outside to inside. It works great and I have been very happy with it. It already has an integrated plug on the inside so no need to wire one up.

 

Chad - Thanks!!! That looks like exactly what I have been looking for!!! And it's not expensive. With this I can drill a hole right next to the place where my Sat/Cable connections are on the outside. They lead into a cabinet which is perfect for it. OH wow!! You're great!!!

 

I just checked and it will handle up to 13amps - which I think is 1560 watts (or is it 1625?)....right?????

My space heater is 1500w

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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Chad, that is a good find. LImited in current, but sufficient. I've not seen one of those before.....

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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GV, you ask " I just checked and it will handle up to 13 amps - which I think is 1560 watts....right?????"

 

P = V x I so at 120 Volts, 13 amps = 1560 watts CORRECT WEEDHOPPER

 

"My space heater is 1500w"

 

So at 120 volts that computes to 12.5 amps (assuming all is well and correct which may or may not be the case in reality) which is just under the gun for a 13 amp

rated device. Of course, who is to say the parks RV pedestal is at 120 volts????????????? Ive seen them from 100 up to near 130 !!!!!!!!!!!! YIKES at both ends lol

 

You have been a good student, go to the head of the class lol That device will indeed "work" even if you're operating close to its rated limits.

 

John T

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CORRECT WEEDHOPPER You have been a good student, go to the head of the class lol

John T

 

Thanks John, lol. I'm handy enough so I will install it and put the "rain" cover on it. Also, I'll check the pedestal voltage before I plug in.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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Chad - Thanks!!! That looks like exactly what I have been looking for!!! And it's not expensive. With this I can drill a hole right next to the place where my Sat/Cable connections are on the outside. They lead into a cabinet which is perfect for it. OH wow!! You're great!!!

 

I just checked and it will handle up to 13amps - which I think is 1560 watts (or is it 1625?)....right?????

My space heater is 1500w

Glad I could help. I have had mine installed in my truck for about a year. It powers a 3 bank battery charger and is pretty much plugged in at the back of the sleeper any time the truck is parked, rain or shine. I have had no issues with water intrusion or bad electrical connections as a result of rain. The plug is recessed and pretty well protected on the outside. I wouldn't worry about covering it.

2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift
2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard
2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan
2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage)
2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)
My First Solar Install Thread
My Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the build
My MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet!

chadheiser.com      West Coast HDT Rally Website

event.png    

AZCACOIDIAKSMNMOMTNENVNMNDOKSDTNTXUTWYxlg.jpg

 

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GV,

 

Now that you have solved the issue of getting power into the trailer, do you have a complete set of adapters so that you can connect to the pedestal? At a minimum a 50 amp to 30 amp and a 30 amp to 15 amp would be a good to have. In our travels, we have encountered considerable variation in what is available at the park power pedestal ranging from a single outlet of 15, 20, 30 or 50 amps to multiple outlets in various combinations. In the case of a single outlet, the only one that would permit you to connect both your 30 amp RV power cord and your new heater cord is a 50amp outlet. You would need an adapter like this or this to connect both your power sources.

 

I have also seen some power pedestals marked with a statement not to connect to more than one outlet. I am not sure, but in the case of those with just a 30 amp and 15/20 amp outlet, I suspect that both outlets are wired on the same circuit such that 30 amps is the maximum available and using both circuits is likely to result in an overload that might trip a breaker in a main panel at another location and leave the pedestal with no power.

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Yo trailertraveler, you sure raise some good points. We camp often in NON Traditional camps, Bluegrass Festivals, Tractor Shows, Fairgrounds, etc and yes Ive seen everything out there as far as what power is available. I carry 50 to 30,,,,,,, and 30 to 50,,,,,,,,,,,, and 15 to 30,,,,,,,,,,,,, and 30 to 15,,,,,,,,,,,,, adapters everywhere I go lol plus a ton of 12/3 and 10/3 cords.

 

FOR GENERAL INFO, I'm sure you and most here already know all this:

 

Heres the deal at "some" RV Power Pedestals. There are usually two 120 VAC Legs, L1 & L2 available, that's for 50 Amp RV's with two 120 VAC Legs to run two 120 VAC AC's. Of course, then theres the 30 amp 120 VAC single Leg for smaller RV's. Next there's often a 120 volt NEMA 5-15R or NEMA 5-20R Duplex receptacle like your typical home outlets. NOW if I designed the Pedestal I would have the 30 Amp receptacle on L1 and the 15/20 Amp Duplex receptacle on L2. Of course, the 50 amp uses BOTH L1 & L2. They make dog bone cheater adapters that you plug into both the 30 amp and the 15/20 amp outlets which then goes to the 50 Amp receptacle so you can cheat and run a 50 Amp RV I WONDER IF THEY ARE UL OR NEC APPROVED ???? and they only work (as sold and designed) ifffffffffff the 30 amp and 15/20 are fed from opposite legs L1 & L2. They also make 30 to 50 adapters which I wonder about lol but sure they get used.

 

If good ol GV pulls up to a Pedestal and they have BOTH the 30 amp plus a 15/20 amp duplex receptacle available he can plug in his RV plus the circuit for his heater BUT THERES NO GUARANTEE if those are on a single Leg or two Legs???????????? If on a single depending on how the overload protection is configured he may exceed it!!! If the 30 amp and duplex are on two different legs (how I would design it) he's good to go.

 

I love sparky chat, I no longer walk the walk as Im long retired but still love to talk the talk lol

 

John T

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First off, GV is a "she", not a "he" but she's not offended at all :rolleyes: .

 

I have a 50 to 30 and a 30 to 15. I get what you (thanks!!!!Chad, trailertraveler and Johnt) all are saying so my main issue now is if the 30 amp and 15/20 duplex are on two different legs or one. Is there a way to know that (via a test or meter or ?) ?....I really don't trust to ask the management as they probably don't know and might not admit that they don't know....if they even understand what I'm asking.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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. ....so my main issue now is if the 30 amp and 15/20 duplex are on two different legs or one. Is there a way to know that (via a test or meter or ?) ?....I really don't trust to ask the management as they probably don't know and might not admit that they don't know....

The management probably doesn't know about circuit designs or connections, and may not even understand the question.There is a very easy way to know, as you simply measure voltage between hot pin of each of the two outlets. If they are supplied by the same phase the reading will be 0V and if the are on opposite legs it will read 240V.

 

 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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simply measure voltage between hot pin of each of the two outlets

 

 

Ok....I have a volt meter. Do I put one probe in one hot (30amp) and the other probe in the other hot (15/20)? Sorry but I'm just learning some of these things.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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