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Off topic 50amp cord question.


Big5er

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I was just given a 50 amp twistlock cord.

Like this one

DETACHABLE%20CORDSET,50A%2025FT-500x500.

So, now I have a pair of identical cables. My 5er uses a twistlock connector just like each of the two cables I now own.

Here is my question. Keep in mind that I do NOT want to alter either cord.

Has anyone ever seen an adapter that would allow me to plug the cables together, ie use one like an extension cord. Sure, I know I could remove the twistlock and put on a female end but I do not want to. In case one cable goes bad, a fellow traveler forgets his etc, I want top leave the twistlock alone.

 

Something like this 30amp one??

rjb6361rv_500.jpg

If no one has seen an adapter, can I just make one? Twistlock female on one end and a 50 amp receptical in on the other?

Any reason I wouildn't want to do that?

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I assume you understand that when you connect two cords in series you have to derate them relative to the current they can safely handle. The power loss in an electric conductor is equal to I (current) squared times R (resistance). By doubling the cord length you have doubled the resistance; the voltage drop is doubled and the maximum safe current is reduced.

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The expense of the connectors would make it a government project.

Just put a 50A socket on one of the cords, under $25. That is what I carry, a long twist lock

and additional 50A extension cord. Needed both many times.

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BigFiver, you would need a MALE 50 amp twist-lock on one end and a 50 amp range recepticle on the other end. I don't know if anyone makes that adaptor but there is no reason you can't make your own. If you have 100 feet of cable you would need to watch your voltage drop if pulling anywhere near 50 amps. Most 50 amp RV cords are about 30 feet long and are 6/3,8/1 cables and are like wrestling a giant anaconda when very cold. I make up replacement cords using 6/4 SOOW cable and they are sooo much more flexible....a real joy to coil and handle....but that wasn't your question. If you make an adaptor, just be sure the wiring is correct. If you are coming to the ECR we could make up an adaptor there. The power inlet that Darryl linked to would be a good way to go for the twist-lock end. Charlie

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Guys, I don't think he is going to have 100 ft. of power cord. Didn't see that posted. He is either going to have two 20's or maybe two 25's.

Phil, I like your idea of wanting to help a bud in need, and understand you wanting be able to use it as an extension when needed.

 

I agree with some and just build your own connector and you have the most flexibility. I have found that several RV shops are willing to build what I want with quality parts.

 

Good luck bro. Nice snag by the way.

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LOL, Thanks Rocky. I was just in the right place at the right time :) and I haven't measured it but yeah, its either 20 or 25 ft.

I think Charlie and Darryl are right on the money. I like that Home Depot box. With the cost of the plugs I should get away for around $50. That is a LOT cheaper than a 50 amp extension cord and this way I have an ambidextrous, multilingual, and dual purpose cord.

 

I will never forget my 2nd HDT rally where I got all set up in the overflow area for the pre-rally and was 2 feet short of reaching the plug. Roger (of Roger&Debbie) said "don't you have an extension cord?" and then loaned me his for 2 days until we got into the campground area. With a homemade adapter box, I have an extension cord to loan, a twistlock cord to loan or an extension cord for my next "2 feet short" situation.

 

Thanks for all the ideas guys. My local Home Depot doesn't have the box in stock, it'll take a week to deliver, but what the heck, I'm already hooked up and not planning to leave anytime soon, so I have a week to wait :)

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Phil, I would go buy one male and one female 50 amp cord ends. I would then cut the new (to you) cord about two or three feet from the twist lock end. Put the new male 50 amp plug on the new short cord and the female 50 amp plug on the longer piece. This gives you a long extension cord for use with your existing cord and a twist lock cord you can loan out (if needed) to be used with the (new) extension cord. This does away with all the extra boxes and funky connections and should be fairly cheap. It is what I did with an extra cord I had. I often use the short twist lock pigtail to plug my portable generator into my trailer without a bunch of extra cord laying on the ground.

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Having a short cord like Chad describes is helpful. As he said, it can serve dual purposes. I've used mine a number of times - but honestly, it is not something that is used every day.

 

HOWEVER, when stuck in my brother-in-laws drive recently (with 30 amp service "nearby") I did use 55' of 50 amp cord, a 50' length of 10 ga contractor extension cord, and then TWO 30 amp extensions of 25' each. That got me 30 amps at the rig with no real voltage drop. So sometimes the stuff comes in handy.

 

My biggest issue seems to be that these cords that are not used much are in the drom box, and the car always seems to be on the truck when I need them - conveniently blocking the drom :( Danielle says I should stop carrying so much "junk".

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Phil I like Chads idea but I believe they make an adaptor that will do what you want but it is about $80. Bill B has a 90 degree that screws into his rig and then the regular cord screws to that. This just makes the cord hang straight down instead of sticking straight out from the rig and drooping down putting pressure on the plug.

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I have to ask: why do you want to keep two cords unaltered?

 

That said, I think your adapter could be as simple as the proper opposites of the connectors you want to mate, and either a 1' section of cord (knowing that you'll trim it back to 6" by the time it's built) or a longer section of cord (if you have two 20' cords and they're both of sufficient gauge for a 50' total run @50A, why not use 11' of cord knowing it'll end up closer to 10' once you're done). Have someone else verify for safety, but the green wire goes to the green screw terminal, white wire goes to the silver screw, and the remaining two colors (probably black and red) go to the two remaining screws. Ideally, you'd make sure you don't cross the red/black wires (Ghostbusters: "Don't cross the streams!"), but as long as you only have one cable going to your trailer, it doesn't matter.

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Big5ver;

 

Marinco makes an adapter.

 

By modifying the cord you will have lost the molded weather proofing, that's why it is best to not disturb the covering unless you truly know what your doing. Corrosion is the "1" factor in the degredation of an electrical system.

 

Just sayin.

 

Curt

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By modifying the cord you will have lost the molded weather proofing, that's why it is best to not disturb the covering unless you truly know what your doing. Corrosion is the "1" factor in the degredation of an electrical system.

Curt's answer pretty well covered why I wanted to leave the cords unaltered...NOW, having said that, and pricing the different connections, I can do like Chad, Jack and Brad all said for less that $20...so I bought the connectors. I will check with my guys next door at the RV repair facility for the best way to seal the connections to avoid as much corrosion as possible.

 

Jack, luckily for me, DRV has a small dedicated compartment for the electric inlet that is just big enough to hold both cables so the smart will never be blocking the cable access....now that doesn't mean that I can get to my drom any better than you, it just means that ONE thing won't be there. :)

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Use the grease like compound for the actual wire to terminal connections in the plugs, available @ the big box store. you can use bath tub caulk to seal the plug housings to the cable and at the seam where they bolt together. I would still consider a plastic tool box or similar to put the adapter and extension cord end p[ug connections in to protect them from weather and dirt when in use instead of just plugging everything together and leaving it in the open.

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