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Diesel fuel additives?


Yarome

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Just curious if folks regularly use fuel additives with their diesels. If so, what is your preferred additive?

 

I guess what brought it on was an article I read about a fella that runs with 90% used automatic transmission fluid with 10% diesel and a little cetane booster. I don't think I would be that daring, but has anyone else used ATF before? What was your impression?

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When you start looking you will find volumes on this subject .

In short the older motors (before all the electronics) would burn most any oil in fact it was common practice when changing the fuel filter to fill with ATF as a cleaner plus it was less messy than diesel . I've had some tractors (older) that I have burn used cooking oil in as a way to get read of it with out any problems.

The newer motors with the electronics and closer tolerances the consensus is that the higher viscosity oils will damage parts.

 

if this is something you wish to try be sure to filter any oil that you are going to burn the grit from used oil will do more damage than the oil.

 

Now that I re-read your original post I just babbled on about something you had not even asked about,

as to additives I don't run them on a regular basis . Mainly if I am in cold wither and I have a tank of #2 diesel in place of cold weather blend.

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For my F250, MH and tractor I use PRI-D. Have been using it for 8-9 years now. Still on the original high pressure fuel pump and noticeably quiets the engine on the '02 F250. Since all my engines are older I figure that the lubricant in it is doing it's job. 1oz treats 16 Gallons. I plan on continuing to use it as long as I run a diesel. You can check out their web site and decide for yourself. www.priproducts.com.

Good luck, good health and safe travels!

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Per gal automatic transmission fluid would be $$$ using 90 gal(90%) of it in a 100 gal tank with 10 gal of diesel(10%).

 

"Used" ATF. Evidently he gets it free from local auto shops and filters it down to 3 microns so he is only boning up for 10% diesel and a little cetane. Roughly $.30 a gallon to run his rig. I would never go that far, but I have heard of others that use ATF as an additive for lubrication.

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I use Diesel Kleen in the silver bottle. I add it every other or every third fill up. In addition to being a cetane booster it does all the other things, like injector cleaner, etc. Now, whether it is using the additive or where I buy fuel, while I regularly check the water trap, I have yet to find any water there.

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Good thread, and as ponted out, changing times. Like Pilot/J's doing a mix.

 

And different aged diesels equals different answers. Pre ULSD designed - run an additive with extra lubrication. Me? Even if getting a mixed ULSD fuel.

 

Adding cetane usually does not pencil out costs wise.

I do run the Summer Blend of Optilube, or winter, etc. Based on time of year.

 

I also add cetane if running in the Rockies, but more for helping the engine then for power gain.

 

I do have a pre ULSD ISL I our 2004 coach.

 

Best to all,

Smitty

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I use Diesel Kleen in the silver bottle when I find the station has Bio-diesel. I lose 10-15% mileage on bio-diesel over straight diesel when I add the Diesel Kleen it boosts the mileage up so I only lose 5-10%. I have no idea what it does to the engine I am running the new 6.7 Ford diesel and it has not caused any problems with 60,000 miles on it.

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Europe has higher Cetane levels which improve ignition of the fuel, and europe has much lower sulphur levels which lowers the emissions. This is partly why we dont see many diesel cars in NA compared to Europe. Now that turbos have entered the picture more we might see that change.

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Europe has higher Cetane levels which improve ignition of the fuel, and europe has much lower sulphur levels which lowers the emissions. This is partly why we dont see many diesel cars in NA compared to Europe. Now that turbos have entered the picture more we might see that change.

 

For what it is worth, the differences between NA and Europe is not all that great. 15ppm vs 10ppm and 42-45 cetane vs 51 cetane. Having lived in Europe for 11 years, I can say that the real reason that you saw so many diesel cars in Europe was not only the good fuel economy but that diesel fuel prices were considerably less than gasoline. That is no longer true. Diesel prices are now on average higher than gasoline and going up. As that happens diesel cars are losing some of their appeal (at least according to friends over there).

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I use a few ounces of 2 cycle motor oil (synthetic) at every fill-up and algaecide if needed.

My Cummins is in my 96 Dodge PU and has the P-7100 mechanical pump so the main thing it needs is the lubricity added to the low sulfur fuel. The truck has 424,000 miles on it and the Cummins runs better than when new. YMWV ;)

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I add "SULFUR SUBSTITUTE" by "GUNK" to every fill-up in my '02 F350 (7.3). This was recommended by my truck mechanic. It doesn't add sulfur, it adds the lubrication that needs to be replaced since the government removed the sulfur. It is probably the same as 2 cycle motor oil put in a different bottle and cost more, but it makes me feel like its the right thing to do. Has anyone out there tried it?

 

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I personally feel that as little as 2 to 3% high quality bio diesel is the best additive for lubricity. I am not sure what is best for cleaning/maintaining injectors. I made bio diesel from good, clean, filtered and dewatered waste veggie oil and It was good stuff. I have run it 100% in the summer in a 1999 and a 2006 Ram Cummins. A warning about using high concentrations of bio diesel is that it is such an effective solvent that any gunk in your fuel,tanks or lines will end up in your filter. Also some older rubber fuel lines can be degraded by it in high concentrations. Bio diesel has a high cloud point and will gell much easier than dino diesel. I am talking about real bio diesel made by titrating, transesterfying washing,drying and filtering good WVO and not talking about just dumping any old WVO in your tank....although I have done that, too. We used to have a customer who rented Ford diesel vans and trailers to traveling musicians. These vans were equipped with both diesel and WVO tanks. They were set up to start on diesel, warm the WVO to a set temp and automatically switch to 100% WVO. When you shut one of these vans down, the engine didn't shut down until it had purged the fuel delivery system of WVO and was running on diesel again. The drivers of the vans said that you couldnt tell they were running on WVO unless you smelled the exhaust......and it smelled like french fries. Just my 2 cents worth. Charlie

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