Bill B Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Well it's getting time to think about heading north for the summer. The batteries in the truck were shot, and 5 years old, so I bought some new ones. We have an inverter in the truck, which I use quite often, mostly charging the trailer while running. But there is also the fridge, some communication stuff, the truck load (ECM, TCM) so I bought some 31N but of a AGM flavor. Now we now that AGM's are different from the normal SLI batteries, and the maintainer has an AGM setting, which I am using. I have rewired the charging circuit from the alternator to remote sense the battery voltage (voltage is about 14.1 while running, and she is holding steady pushing out 75 amps to the trailer). I'd like to bump up the APU sense voltage but can't find the 'right' manual. (No problem finding the install but the actual control settings are not part of it). http://www.na.thermoking.com/content/dam/tki-na/pdf/Install_Manuals/apu/TriPac%20Diesel%20Auxiliary%20Heating%20and%20Cooling%20Temperature%20Management%20System%20-%2053120_TriPac_19IM_Rev13.pdf Can anyone think of other 'system' considerations that I should think of? Thanx Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beyerjf Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 I tried a set of AGM's in my over the road tractor, which seemed to suit the bill while parked using "hotel" loads, TV, computer etc. They were twice as expensive as flooded batteries so for my application they needed to last twice as long. In typical over the road service most guys replace flooded batteries every 18 months to 2 years, because getting stranded is such an expensive endeavor. The charging system on my 2000 Freightliner with a 160 amp Delco alternator was designed for flooded batteries and their characteristics. I asked various electrical places about changes needed if I used AGM's, they said nothing can be changed. The Exide dealer said the AGM's don't need anything special, which was opposite to what I had read, charging rates, times, voltages etc. I had them for about 36 months, even at the same rating (950cca) they didn't seem to have the oompff for cold weather starts, although they never let me down. So it was a wash in my view. The only way I would try them again would be in a OEM system designed for this type of battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dascom Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Bill: I also have the TriPack APU. It will take some digging but I have the real schematics and service manual. I did need to identify the battery sense wire when I put the 150 Amp alternator in the APU, which by the way is only 1,800 watts, the original 60 Amp toy is gone. I have a switch that tells the APU which battery bank to monitor, thus the sense wire must go to that bank. Without modifying the controller circuit board one will need to adjust the turn on, turn off externally. probably can't tell you how unless I know what you want.As far as charging the AGM batteries just remember, they will be killed by overcharging. Don't know of an motor vehicle charging system set up for that and suspect most are not. The AGM is a strong performer in many applications but one must remember this: AGM battery charging The first stage in a 3 or 4 stage charging algorithm is the Bulk Stage. Typically the Bulk Stage is a Constant Current (CC) charge but may also be Constant Power, Pulse Current or Taper Charge. In this stage the optimum charge current should be limited to less than or equal to 30 amps per 100 ampere hour (20 hour rate) of battery capacity or .3C. This stage should end when the cell voltage is = to 2.4-2.465V/Cell at 25°C/77°F. The maximum time in hours should = 1.2 times the DOD (in AH) divided by the average charge current in amps. If this time is exceeded, charging should be stopped and the battery and/or charge process should be analyzed. This stage will represent approximately 60% of the total charge time. The battery will be nearing 80%-90% charged at the end of this stage. The second stage is the Absorption Stage. Typically this stage is a Constant Voltage (CV) stage where the terminal voltage is maintained at 2.4-2.465V/Cell at 25°C/77°F (adjusting for temperature). The charge current is maintained until current acceptance drops by less than .1 ampere over a 1 hour period. This stage should take the battery to 100% charged and should not take longer than 10-12 hours. If this time is exceeded, charging should be stopped and the battery and/or charge process should be analyzed. The third stage is the Float Stage or maintenance and monitor stage. This step is generally not needed if; no load is present when the batteries device is not in operation; the batteries device is used on a regular basis and does not sit idle for lengthy periods of time. Float voltage should be maintained at 2.25-2.30 V/Cell. If a Balance Mode is included in the charging algorithm it would typically happen after the Absorption Stage. This would become the third stage and the “Float Stage” would then become the fourth stage. A balance mode is similar to an Equalize function for flooded batteries but is performed against tightly controlled current, voltage and time. For example the current should be limited to 1 amp per 100 amp hour of battery capacity and the battery should not be maintained at the balance or over voltage limit for less than 1 hour and for no longer than 4 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunJuniper Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Well it's getting time to think about heading north for the summer. The batteries in the truck were shot, and 5 years old, so I bought some new ones. We have an inverter in the truck, which I use quite often, mostly charging the trailer while running. But there is also the fridge, some communication stuff, the truck load (ECM, TCM) so I bought some 31N but of a AGM flavor. Now we now that AGM's are different from the normal SLI batteries, and the maintainer has an AGM setting, which I am using. I have rewired the charging circuit from the alternator to remote sense the battery voltage (voltage is about 14.1 while running, and she is holding steady pushing out 75 amps to the trailer). I'd like to bump up the APU sense voltage but can't find the 'right' manual. (No problem finding the install but the actual control settings are not part of it). http://www.na.thermoking.com/content/dam/tki-na/pdf/Install_Manuals/apu/TriPac%20Diesel%20Auxiliary%20Heating%20and%20Cooling%20Temperature%20Management%20System%20-%2053120_TriPac_19IM_Rev13.pdf Can anyone think of other 'system' considerations that I should think of? Thanx Bill let me do some digging. i BELIEVE i still have the service manuals for the Tri-Pac's which ISNT available to the public. only to repair/installation centers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dascom Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Bill, I found my service manual, too big to post here. Maybe 8 meg will fit in an email, let me know if you want it and where,. TriPac AuxiliaryPower UnitTK 53024-19-OD (Rev 1, 11-08)DIAGNOSTIC MANUALOriginal, Version 1.0 and Version 1.5 Interface BoardsInterface Board Software Revisions 00CC, 00CD, 00CHEngine Start Software Revisions E100, E101Original and Version 1 HMI Control PanelHMI Software Revisions r20, r23 and r24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill B Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 GREAT DAVE ---- email in your in basket This unit kinda falls in the can you believe it bucket. Records, near as I can figure, TriPac was installed when the truck was bought, and here we are - 7 years later, and the unit has --- 16 running hours on it. Well, 25 now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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