singling volvo

[Phil D]

Thanks, Phil. What have you done to your Cat that gives you the range of HP and TQ numbers?

 

It was one of the available Cat settings (what they referred to as a Personality Module, or PM) for the 2KS C-12. In first through eighth gears it's programmed as a 380 HP (actually 395 peak HP since, for some reason, many Cat advertised HP numbers are 15 HP lower than the actual peak HP, because the HP peak is achieved at slightly higher RPM than peak torque)/1450 lb/ft torque engine. In ninth through twelfth gears, it's programmed to produce 430 (again, peak HP is actually 445)/1650 lb/ft. The multiple rating PMs can be programmed to re-map in either the two, three, or four highest available gears. Mine was set "top four" when Kenworth installed it in the truck, and I left it that way when I had a Cat dealer reprogram a few settings shortly after buying the truck.

[The Few]

Goes with the old proverb, "Opinions are like, oh well, everybody has one". There is probably no bigger group of "singlers" than the HDT crowd on this forum, who drives them. You will alter the behavior of the truck significantly (in not a good way) by singling short or mid, and not so much by singling long. It has nothing to do with ride quality but the fact that you unbalanced the front axle to rear axle weight distribution and the rear axle braking is compromised. Solution to that is, as Jack says above, put the weight back in that areas, typically by installing substantial deck or hauler body. And don't be "tempted" by pretty aluminum, have it made of steel and plenty of it.

 

That is brilliant thinking "phoenix2013"to installing a deck that would benifit or improve the ride quality, by adding weight over the tandems!!

I was a supervisor in a Marine Corps logistics and Motor Transport unit as a Motor Transport chief, and when I was sent to Alaska to test one of the "now" very used and popular Marine Corps MTVR 7 ton trucks, we tested the whole rigidity and characteristics of the truck, by using a 15000lbs block of steel to improvise a full combat load while driving up and down the snowy mountains and harsh terrain.. My point being, is That the HDT needs to comply (weight wise) so that the suspension does have a load over the springs/suspension of the tandems? My question is, "HOW MUCH" weight would be sufficient (accompanied by a smart car) to overcome the harsh ride from the tandems, because I choose to keep my truck with both axles in the rear (Volvo 780)....Sorry to have "hijacked" this thread, but a very good point made by "phoenix2013" Just sparked a reaction from me!!! (I love this website)!!! LOL

[rdickinson]

Like I said earlier, Herrin did it for 2500, deck is about 3k lbs and diesel Smart is 2200 lbs. Singled mid there was very little difference in front end weight with car on after deck on and car loaded. 2-300 lbs as I recall. You lose about 2000 lbs by dropping an axle. I tried a bunch of salvage yards but no-one wanted the rear end.

 

 

229 wb.

[Dollytrolley]

Our old company has a few trucks that I still have keys to........so once in a while I drive a couple of single trucks.....one is short and another 'mid" in the RV world layout. As a whole bobtail is not much fun any any truck no matter two axle or tandem......it's just the way bobtail is.

 

Maybe I am just getting...... o l d....... but it seems to me that as our U S roads "mature" the right-hand-truck-lanes seems to be rougher every year.......

 

Maybe its just my imagination but it seems that certain truck lanes really pound the heck out of my tandem and I have been told that when a huge amount of tandem rigs "recounture" the roadbed that having EIGHT drive wheels DROP at the same instant into the bottom of every washboard road it is indeed a good way to shake the screws out of your sunglasses.

 

We have some roads that the ole Freightshaker (tandem) really earns it's name and even the singles complain but tandem is even worse......

 

Lots to consider in truck layout and balance......

 

Just thoughts to ponder

[phoenix2013]

I plan on short or medium does it cost more one way vs another

 

Having singled couple of trucks and having "interviewed" scores of "singlers" I find that the price charged for that service vary like the price charged for the services of a prized bull in the breeding season. No real rime or reason for the huge disparity. I think the primary reason for high prices or estimates is that the shop hasn't done many or none at all and are covering their butts in case they run into "difficulties", or they are just plain greedy.

Discounting the "do it yourselves" (I did it for $500 bucks), or "my brother in law" did it cases, the reasonable costs average $1,500 for short or long and $2,500 for mid , because of all that extra drilling in hardened frame rails.

These were prices for VOLVO SINGLING ONLY. Trucks with different suspensions, particularly Paccar (Peterbilt, Kenworth) can be a bear to single. One thing to remember that you are negotiating work that is not routine for many shops or dealers, so besides price there is also the question of the competence of getting it done properly.

Since this involves "negotiations", few things to keep in mind. Very rarely the front axle is worth anything, but the four tires and rims are a different story and you might find out that if they "can't keep them" the price will go up. Some shops might give you something for the commercial hitch, if it's not worn too much.

[Big5er]

I had my truck singled to the middle position (ie: the expensive position) 5 years ago. I don't recall he price breakdown because I had them do several things; sandblast and paint the rear frame while it was stripped bare, fix some cancer on one door, a little paint work on one of the rear fairings, replace a leveling valve, plug a few leaks and replace all four shocks. What surprised me was that the Volvo dealer had the cheapest quote and the most intelligent sounding explanation of the exact work that needed to be done to single my truck and rebuild the drive line. All told, I spent $6000 getting it all done.

[Star Dreamer]

... My question is, "HOW MUCH" weight would be sufficient (accompanied by a smart car) to overcome the harsh ride from the tandems, because I choose to keep my truck with both axles in the rear (Volvo 780)....Sorry to have "hijacked" this thread, but a very good point made by "phoenix2013" Just sparked a reaction from me!!! (I love this website)!!! LOL

 

Since tandem trucks are designed to have around 40,000# of combined weight on the rear axles, and subtracting the weight of the smart and the trailer pin weight, it is more a question of how much weight can you get out of the bed and any other equipment you are putting on it and keeping cost reasonable. If you look through the resource guide you will get some tips on bed building which should help address the calculations. In other words by leaving it tandem, you will not be able to cost effectively add enough weight to truly get the tandems up to capacity so just build what you want and use the air ride seats to smooth the ride out.

 

Back to your regularly scheduled thread!

Dave