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I'M having major electrical problems.

Just Don

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I'M having major electrical problems(maybe major to me) dryers acting up, frig is stop freezing unplug it it will start back up, at times our hot water heaters stops heating I have changed thermostats even though I have been told it's not the problem gas side works and furnace motor isn't working up to speed could be going out was told by electrician. I did have a surge protector during this time. While at Johnson Ingram, TX creek (Johnson Creek was not the park with the electrical problem) I bought a Progressive EMS-PT50C April 2014. Could the ac's be next? I have read this could affect the motors if it did in furnace are AC's next.

We bought LG frig in March 2014 before going to this park with electrical problems(story is someone was leaving and didn't unhook) after this park SPLENDIDE washer/dryer shut down it would end up needing a new circuit board(that's was a ouch). I did tell owners they where unresponsive I heard the electrician say there was a problem we left, but to late. Are the two ac's next. I heard this could weaken motors.

I have got electricians to check the pole in Chalk Hill, had him check electrical inside he's says it looks good and probably was indecent at park. Would it take this long for all this failure to start happening to electrical components?

What can I do is there something I can look for? I actually don't trust RV techs in the area. I'M trying to cut my wife off at the pass of buying a DRV mobile suite doing this or thinking on it more. This is very frustrating with every thing plus father and mother dying in last two months.I don't want to buy another rig. I need to fix the problem.
Yet it's tempting to walking away this.


Good chance I used a wrong word here please forgive me and over look it please.

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To answer your question - yes, these things show up over time if you were running on low voltage or if you have electrical surges or the like, from damaged power equipment. You should be able to file under your insurance if you reported it initially. If you did not, then you are out of luck on that front.


It could also be a low or bad battery or a bad converter on the 12 volt side. It is not clear from your descriptions what EXACTLY the issues are. But many RV appliances will not run properly unless they have the right 12 volt power.


You really need to isolate one appliance at a time and debug it. That way you will find immediately if you have a current power problem with 12 volt or 120 volt.

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Electrical problems are no fun when you are on the road, but the good thing is there is no magic involved to isolate the problem.

The furnace fan mentioned, if you have a typical RV furnace, the motor is 12v. If your battery charging system is keeping the batteries at 13.8v ish and the furnace seems to be running slow, check the 12V at the furnace with a hand held voltmeter. If it is in the 13V range when you are on shore power, maybe a fan motor issue. If you have two furnaces, are they both running slow?


Your dyer....is it 120 or 240V? If its 240v, a FUBAR park power system would be hard pressed to damage it. If it was missing (open) half of the duplex , it wouldn't run, if the neutral was floating, it wouldn't care.


The non electrical storm related "surge" thing I think is a bit of a myth. The utility company prides itself in providing 120/240 within about 2% at the meter. A FUBAR park system with a loose or spongy neutral could give you what appears like a surge on one leg of the 120v and a brown out on the other leg. Neither situation is good for the coach loads.

RVs are subject to this situation since the ground and neutral aren't connected in the coach electrical panel like they are in a residential and commercial electrical panels.


The Progressive EMS-PT50C ...... could it be kicking the power feed to your coach off on line noise, leaving the battery bank to run low (furnace fan issue), dumping the fridge so a human has to put it in "ON" mode again.

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Thanks every one for your help with your answers.

I was hoping to understand more about the problem

I seem to have and y'all have helped a lot.

I planning on getting a rv tech to check it out for me.

Maybe he can find solution to problem and fix it.


I do have LG frig it don't run off batteries.


Thanks every one for your info.

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This is some simple things to do for your situation.

Plug your fridge into the power post with a electric cord directly. That will eliminate anything in your system until you figure it out.

Next would be to check your batteries connections and then turn off your converter and use a battery charger set at about 10 amps.

You do need a AC/DC volt and amp meter. if you do not have a meter with DC amp capability you need to purchase one for diagnosing your problems. Home Depot and Lowes have a AC/DC volt-amp meter for about 75 bucks. They are not on the professional level but will give a good idea as to what is happening. It has to have DC amp capability. Also you need to have a simple DC meter to test for DC voltage at the same time you are checking amperage . With both meters connected you can see what volts things area operating at and what amperage it is operating on at the same time..

Now with the meter we can discuss what is really happening in your system.

with this meter we can communicate with you as to what it is suppose to do and what I is doing. Then we can separate out each issue and solve your problems.



Safe Travels, Vern

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