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We ended up having the hitch sent to the Maine border so we could have some more things mailed as well (smart car ramps, etc) and then take them though customs ourselves.

 

NOW.. The fun of the install.. lol

 

I just got it partially unwrapped, but that thing is HUGE and BUILT SOLID!!

I ended up getting 2' of volvo frame for free when I traded in my other parts on some seats, so will be getting that cut to the dovetail shape of the existing frame for attaching.

 

 

 

 

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Jason, your thought about using an engine hoist to deal with the ET will work. When not using my truck hoist it's what we use to deal with ETs for shipping them and installing them. We utilize three points to balance the load.

First we remove (or not install) the two back 1/2 inch bolts holding the rear stop plates and replace these with 1/2 inch lifting eyes.

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We use 1 1/2" lifting strap for hoisting and that's how we position it.

DSC_0028.JPG

 

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Lift it a little and see how it "balances" side to side and forward and back, usually we have to put it back down and shift the straps a bit to make it go up relatively evenly.

Here you can see how we used it to install Rod's rebuilt unit in the back of his truck.

DSC_0016.JPG

Originally the hoist had a 3 ton hydraulic cylinder, it quit after a year or so of "abuse". I had the hoist re-welded and stiffened here and there and now it is "sporting" a 6 ton cylinder.

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Well,

 

I called a local rental place the other day, they wanted $35 a day for an engine hoist and I knew since I am working outside, I would need to space it over a few days weather dependent (Cdn winter). So I checked into new.. I could get one for $250, but thought it was only another thing to store..

 

So, I went full hillbilly and went to a lumber store and bought three 12' 4x4 posts. Used it to take the ET off the truck, and started drilling the holes into the bottom angle I needed, then today used it to raise it up and position it.

 

Now my next decision will be:

 

Use the 2.5ft of volvo frame I have from the wreckers and cut to fit the origional dovetail and extend it back, or just do the 6" high steel formed to a C to "finish" off the back.

 

My origional back had 3 lights in it, I may just put a steel plate between the angle iron with my lights in it temporary.

 

As a hindsight, I wish I had ordered the one with the hitch that had the light cutouts. But wasn't sure what my longterm plans were with the bed.

 

So... Here is my "hillbilly engine hoist".. It got the job done ;)

 

 

tripod_zpsa2625534.jpg

 

hitch_zps1523d6de.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Red Green would be proud. The only way to do him any prouder, would have been to tighten the winch line with the suspension aired up. Hit the switch, truck drops, hitch swings back, gravity carries it through it"s arc to the high point, the winch line breaks, and the hitch lands on the pallet. Ta da!

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Red Green would be proud. The only way to do him any prouder, would have been to tighten the winch line with the suspension aired up. Hit the switch, truck drops, hitch swings back, gravity carries it through it"s arc to the high point, the winch line breaks, and the hitch lands on the pallet. Ta da!

 

Now why didn't I think of that? That would have been faster! :)

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Now that is ingenuity in action....no need to buy a stinkin' lift. I used to use a good sturdy oak tree limb for hoisting things. It always worked and you didn't have to store it. You did need to get what you wanted to hoist under the tree, though. Charlie

 

Yep, I used trees a few times in the past to do work, one time, parked a car between two and ran a chain between them to hoist a motor out, another time, parked a field car between two trees and pulled the front bumper back out, "stretched the car back". ;)

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Nice work. One thing that real nice is you can slide that right in there like that. Do think a lot about a longer extension rather than just enough, a slight bit of added room in front of the ET can make access to the area much easier. It will also give more flexibility in placing those 13/16" bolt holes where you can actually drill them. . Just a thought.

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Nice work. One thing that real nice is you can slide that right in there like that. Do think a lot about a longer extension rather than just enough, a slight bit of added room in front of the ET can make access to the area much easier. It will also give more flexibility in placing those 13/16" bolt holes where you can actually drill them. . Just a thought.

Thanks. Trying to keep just enough room to get the bolts in and to get my leveler working properly. I wanted to try to stick as close to the 65' as possible. IF my measuring is correct, I am down to 65'4"..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, after doing all my measurements, I am down to 65' 2" when hitched up.

 

Now I am looking for advice/suggestions on if I should move it further back.. :rolleyes:

 

I am singled long with a 13,200 front axle. I have NO way to get the truck to the scales to check weights.

 

Here's my specs:

 

BOC to rear wheel center 127"
BOC to hitch pin 158"
WC to Hitch pin 31"
Bed space not counting the winged area to hitch pin: 142"

With the width of the smart car of 68" and the safe space for the trailer 54", I am left with 20".

 

Sometime, I would like to haul either a 4 wheeler or a golf cart along with us so trying to debate if I should do the bed length I want now or do without the extra space.

 

I wish I also knew how close to overloading my front axles. (D12) I could move my fuel tanks back to help with that I believe?

 

Being close to 65' was a concern for me, but being over weight on the front is more of a concern, and if I can make the trailer trail/turn better by being further back will be a big pro as well.

 

Looking for feedback as to if I should extend the rear frame another 28" to give me plenty of room for further bed upgrades and to take some weight off the front axle by putting the ET further back.

 

That would bring my length to 67' 8". And make the WC to hitch pin 59".

 

That would give me 54" for the 5er swing, 68" for smart and 48" for toys

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks!

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I'm still confused about the 39 inches. What I am after is the length of the rails from BOC to the absolute end (the end of slope where the bobtail light panel was). Then any extension you are planning and again I'm assuming the ET will be pushed back to be flush with the end of this extension. Then the depth you will subtract if you keep the wings (probably around 17")

You get me all that and I will draw you a nice picture.

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Hi,

 

From BOC to the end of my rails is 158.5" / 13' 2.5"

 

To finish closing in the hitch as is, I would need to add only 11". I was think about adding 39" instead.

 

I was also thinking about the best way to reinforce that if I do it is to replace the angle iron with lengths the same as the ET Hitch + 39" (roughly 731/4") that way I can use all the existing bolt holes and the extra length of the angle iron would help with the reinforcement of the rails besides the welded 39" extension 6" bent steel.

 

The ET hitch would then be slid back 28" from where it is now. That would put the very back of the frame to the wheel centers at about 70". Would that be too long?

 

Thanks

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Thanks

 

Would doing a longer 1/4 angle iron underneath the hitch be counted as a reinforcement?

 

So at the very back, there would be the 4" angle iron going from where the front of the hitch is now to the very back, then the 6" frame on the outside.

 

Going with a 12" is not a problem.

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Thanks

 

Would doing a longer 1/4 angle iron underneath the hitch be counted as a reinforcement? The hitch has 4 x 4 x 1/2 the length of the hitch, you could get, let's say, couple 6 footers and run them forward from the end of the hitch. That would certainly do the trick with 6" channel, but I really need to find the picture of the 6" channel reinforcement, it was very "elegant", you will like it when you see it.

 

So at the very back, there would be the 4" angle iron going from where the front of the hitch is now to the very back, then the 6" frame on the outside.

 

Going with a 12" is not a problem.

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Just "happened" to "own" two trucks like yours, both singled long 127" to the axle from the BOC. On one I "installed an ET" to 11 inches beyond the end of the original rails and on the other to 39 inches beyond the end of the original rails.

 

pie%2520assy%252011%2520jpeg.jpg

 

pie%2520assy%252039%2520jpeg.jpg

 

What would you like know about them? Neither one is buried in 6' of snow, as a matter of fact both are "sitting in my driveway" in 71 degree weather.

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