Motorhome must haves and nice to haves

[docj]

 

A pain, why? A skilled driver will approach a hill in a safe gear but as they descend the hill they will want to control the vehicle speed with the throttle (on flatter sections) and by coasting or using the exhaust brake (on steeper sections) while keeping the transmission in a gear that keeps the RPM at a safe level and provides the needed braking when the exhaust brake valve is closed. With the preselect the transmission will downshift to or towards the preselected every time your speed drops to a point that the shift won't exceed the safe RPM limit of your engine. That can result in a LOT of gear changing and is hard on the transmission, enough of it can even get the Allison fluid and your coolant temp to start climbing to unsafe levels. It also makes it very difficult to control your speed as the braking level changes a lot as the gear changes. Without the preselect the driver is in control of the selected gear so they can approach the hill in 4th and on the throttle, back off until they are coasting or lift their foot completelt to activate the exhaust brake. Feathering the exhaust brake on and off to control the speed - with no automatic downshifting. You can descend the hill with only the single shift at the top and again at the bottom of the hill, if you need third or even second you must use the shift panel to make the change.

 

All very true, but the details of how your particular MH is geared are key to knowing whether this is bothersome enough to get one to remove or change the automatic downshift. For example, with my MH the gear ratios are such that I can safely do 65 mph in 4th, so when I encounter rolling terrain where there is the likelihood of having my foot on and off the throttle and the Jake coming on and off, I downshift to 4th and stay there until I'm back on level ground. That way the Jake doesn't force a downshift and I'm running the engine very close to its max HP point. That's a great RPM range to drive in and the tall gearing means that I can maintain highway speeds without a problem.

 

In contrast, my friends with Beaver Marquis of the same period have gearing that limits them to ~57 in 4th which makes that gear less suitable for highway speed driving. Many of them have removed the 4th gear downshift for the reasons you mentioned.

 

I've toyed with having my Jake reset to a 5th gear downshift, but the current setting makes it easier for my wife to handle when she's driving. She's not as experienced dealing with the keypad so the automatic downshift serves its intended purpose for her.

[wa_desert_rat]

A skilled driver will approach a hill in a safe gear but as they descend the hill they will want to control the vehicle speed with the throttle (on flatter sections) and by coasting or using the exhaust brake (on steeper sections) while keeping the transmission in a gear that keeps the RPM at a safe level and provides the needed braking when the exhaust brake valve is closed.

Our 1993 DP has a 4-speed Allison and does not downshift when I use the Pacbrake (an after-market version of exhaust brake) but I've found no issues with simply engaging the Pacbrake only when needed. Our DP is only 22,500 lbs (lighter than many gassers nowadays) and I seldom touch the service brakes (air brakes) on a descent. The Pacbrake, used as you described, does the job very well.

 

New RV operators - especially those new to longer or heavier rigs - need to keep a close watch on traffic well ahead. Brake lights half-a-mile up the road are often the first indication that you need to start slowing down now.

 

WDR

[Onthego]

Jeff,

 

Not a bus driver but a long haul driver? The Renegades are nice looking and expen$ive and really not that much different than a DP except for the engine placement.

 

Barb

 

Where there are DP snobs I'm a Super C/ Truck Conversion snob. LOL. As a kid I would pretend to be a truck driver not a bus driver. I prefer the safety and security of the cab. My choice.

 

Jeff

[Jimalberta]

It also makes quite a difference on which toad I am pulling. The jeep weighs 3200 lbs and is not too noticable. The truck with the RZR on it is double that and I can notice the difference. The truck however has a good braking system on it and when I hammer the brakes to slow down on a descent I can feel the truck brakes engaging.

 

I drive at least a mile ahead of myself and watch the traffic lke a hawk. These machines dont stop on a dime.

[Guest ticat900]

\I have never seen the trans oil and or the engine coolant rise in temperature because of downshifting going down a mountain pass? In fact my water temp cools about 15 degrees when in this situation. I also seriously doubt its hard on the Allison trans to auto downshift when activating the ex brake or engine brake as Allison themselves made the system and warrenty such action from new.

[wa_desert_rat]

\I have never seen the trans oil and or the engine coolant rise in temperature because of downshifting going down a mountain pass? In fact my water temp cools about 15 degrees when in this situation. I also seriously doubt its hard on the Allison trans to auto downshift when activating the ex brake or engine brake as Allison themselves made the system and warrenty such action from new.

Transmission fluid temperatures can rise if your coach is equipped with an Allison retarder (mostly Foretravels). They are amazing as you can actually bring the coach to a complete stop without using the service brakes. But they can raise the coolant temp for the tranny.

 

WDR

[Guest ticat900]

Transmission fluid temperatures can rise if your coach is equipped with an Allison retarder (mostly Foretravels). They are amazing as you can actually bring the coach to a complete stop without using the service brakes. But they can raise the coolant temp for the tranny.

 

WDR

yes but that's not the senereo in this case But I understand what your saying. All I said in general using a Exhaust brake or a Engine brake and having the auto down shift setting

It will not make your water temp rise or your trans temp when desending a hill and deploying the brake/downshift system

[skp51443]

\I have never seen the trans oil and or the engine coolant rise in temperature because of downshifting going down a mountain pass? In fact my water temp cools about 15 degrees when in this situation. I also seriously doubt its hard on the Allison trans to auto downshift when activating the ex brake or engine brake as Allison themselves made the system and warrenty such action from new.

 

You are saying that downshifting under the load presented by the exhaust brake and a hill does not cause additional heat to be generated inside the transmission?

 

You believe shifting multiple gears multiple times under load is not harder on the transmission than a single shift to the desired gear before you engage the exhaust brake?

 

Sorry, I just don't buy that.

[Guest ticat900]

 

You are saying that downshifting under the load presented by the exhaust brake and a hill does not cause additional heat to be generated inside the transmission?

 

You believe shifting multiple gears multiple times under load is not harder on the transmission than a single shift to the desired gear before you engage the exhaust brake?

 

Sorry, I just don't buy that.

Actually I was referring more to the statement made "water temperature increase" more than trans temp increase although I have never noticed any increase in trans temp while decending a hill and as far as Increasing to unsafe levels? sorry never going to happen .. as far shifting harder on trans than no shifting then yes I agree but Allison trans are built to withstand such actions so to me its a non issue and I prefer the automatic down shifting when Ex or engine brake is deployed.T o each their own on that setting

[skp51443]

Actually I was referring more to the statement made "water temperature increase" more than trans temp increase although I have never noticed any increase in trans temp while decending a hill and as far as Increasing to unsafe levels? sorry never going to happen .. as far shifting harder on trans than no shifting then yes I agree but Allison trans are built to withstand such actions so to me its a non issue and I prefer the automatic down shifting when Ex or engine brake is deployed.T o each their own on that setting

 

So I guess I was just wrong when I watched what my Allison did or maybe my trans temp and water temp readings were just wrong?

 

I see you now added the word "unsafe" which I never used, I have no time for word games so I'm gone.

 

 

To everyone else: Sorry my attempt to explain the Allison preselect got turned into a topic hijack.

[Guest ticat900]

 

So I guess I was just wrong when I watched what my Allison did or maybe my trans temp and water temp readings were just wrong?

 

I see you now added the word "unsafe" which I never used, I have no time for word games so I'm gone.

 

 

To everyone else: Sorry my attempt to explain the Allison preselect got turned into a topic hijack.

stan go read your post? you said plainly said QUOTE:"can even get the Allison fluid and your coolant temp to start climbing to unsafe levels"

Your water coolant temp will NEVER increase while gearing down while going down a hill and like I said I seriously doubt your autotrans did or will either

[skp51443]

Sorry, you are correct, I didn't scroll back far enough to catch that.

 

That can result in a LOT of gear changing and is hard on the transmission, enough of it can even get the Allison fluid and your coolant temp to start climbing to unsafe levels. I

[Guest ticat900]

Sorry, you are correct, I didn't scroll back far enough to catch that.

 

that's ok Iam fine not to worry opinions often vary on here from time to time

[BarbDan17]

As the OP, I would like to thank all of you for your continued input. There have been many things I would not have thought to consider, and many things I I have learned.

 

Safe travels, one and all.

 

Barbara and Dan

[Big Z]

A full on automatic RO system! ...Don't leave home without it!

[Jimalberta]

Why do you need distilled water when there is beer?

[Kirk W]

I enjoy reading threads of this type because they demonstrate what a diverse group we are. Coming from a family with lots of serious "campers" that believe any RV, no matter how basic is not camping has lead me to think of our taste in RV travel as being pretty luxurious but looking at what some folks consider to be vital as compared to what we want puts us more on the primitive side. I guess my views and desires continue to be pretty much in the moderate part of the RV market as in many things of life.

 

It would be very interesting to see how much of what has been suggested here is actually chosen when BarbDan actually buy an RV. If you are still reading this thread, I'd love to hear some details about that eventual chosen RV.

[Jimalberta]

I run into those " serious campers" as well and have to wonder what the point is. Even our ancestors who travelled across the countries in wagons sought as much luxury as they could find at the time. Even the Indians live fairly luxuriously in teepees and furs. So to each his own. I understand living in tents if there is a reason for it such as bikers travelling light or even hikers on a long trip or travelling light and economically in a car but doing so just so you can say you are "roughing it" makes me laugh.

 

My niece and her husband are serious rock climbers and stayed in tents for years and had the attitude of turning up their nose at us RVers. Then they had a baby. After a couple of tenting trips darned if they didnt buy a travel trailer. Lol.

[Guest ticat900]

been camping all over the north west us and Canada for years.I have used available domestic water where ever we went

I have never had a bad experience nor the wiffey nor have I ever heard of anyone

Some times for straight drinking we used bottled but for all else we use whats in the tap.Some people have mind over matter issues

if you know what I mean

[BarbDan17]

If you are still reading this thread, I'd love to hear some details about that eventual chosen RV.

The only details we have so far is that we are still looking, and loving our list.

 

Hope everyone enjoyed the holidaze.

[Andrea5]

Only thing I'd like to add is to really investigate the kind of insulation used. Poorly-insulated rigs mean condensation problems and big electric bills (assuming you ever stay monthly or seasonally at a campground). Our rig was made with expandable foam that, when dry, added strength to the walls. It's also a great soundproofing asset.

 

Also along these lines, for my money, less glass is better. Picture windows are lovely when the weather's perfect--and it's ALWAYS perfect in the magazine photo spread! Not so much if you get assigned to a site in full sun in the middle of August, or if fall weather dips into the teens or 20s.

 

Here's one tip that might work--visit an RV lot on a sunny day and walk into a couple different brands. You'll probably notice that some are like furnaces inside, while others are much more comfy. You can use that as a clue about how easy or difficult it will be to heat/cool the various models.

[Andrea5]

 

 

RE: BarbDan17's post:

"Your comment is my deepest concern of buying used. While you told the dealer every issue on the rig, I'm certain the information was not shared with the next purchaser and makes me only want to buy new. :-( "

 

A friend of mine was having major repeated problems with his Class A (can't remember if it was gas or DP). Anyway, he finally decided to dump it. Took it to a nationally-known company (hint: first word begins with "C", second word begins with "W"), along with a list of all the things that needed to be fixed before it should be sold. Salesman balled up the list and threw it in the trash, saying "We're not interested in any of that." Pity the poor soul that bought THAT rig!

[Kirk W]

If you are still reading this thread, I'd love to hear some details about that eventual chosen RV.

We have owned two motorhomes over our RVing years. They were numbers 4, & 5, out of six owned and both turned out to be more than satisfactory. The first was a 2 year old Allegro (by Tiffin) which we then owned for 8 years. The second as a new Cruise Master (by Georgie Boy when they still existed) and we owned it for 14 years.

[Shaina]

I echo the automatic leveled. Also back up camera is crucial. Invest in an RV specific gps as well.

[wa_desert_rat]

After a 2100 mile winter trip in our 22-year-old motor home I have some other observations:

 

1. Banks. I cannot say enough good things about the Banks Stinger package on this older motor home added by a previous (original) owner. The RV came stock with a 230hp Cummins 5.9 and an Allison 643 4-speed (lever shift) transmission. If the 1hp for every 100lbs is accurate, then this would have been sufficient for a 22,500lb RV. But the Banks package ups the hp to nearly 300 and significantly boosts torque. We traveled south on I-5 through Oregon and northern CA and we were easily holding 60mph except on the hills where we slowed down but still passed all the trucks.

 

2. PacBrake. Again, as far as I'm concerned, a must-have. This is an exhaust brake system that is an add-on by a previous owner. On 7% grades I seldom touched the brakes to keep under 50mph. On 6% I never had to touch the brakes. And on anything less I simply hit the switch for the PacBrake to occasionally slow us down. The brakes on this old RV are pretty decent and will probably outlast me due to not being used much.

 

3. TriMetric battery voltage monitor. Absolutely essential. Even when we were connected to shore power (30-amp for a few days and 50-amp for about 10 days) I could use the TriMetric to reduce the load on the 30-amp connection (we needed an electric heater to keep warm in temps down into the low 20s along with an electric blanket) during the day. I could simply switch off the converter/charger (45-amp) and turn it on only if needed.

 

4. Solar panels. These, along with the TriMetric, were important in keeping the 30-amp AC circuit (and the heater!) going. We have 640-watts on the rooftop.

 

Those are the four essentials I would not want to be without.

 

Our motor home, towing a 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top, averaged 10.4mpg for the trip.

 

WDR