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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
Found 7 results
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Hi, so this is a head-scratcher of a first post: I just landed at my destination after five days of nonstop travel (as in, no time to even cook or clean, had to be here by a certain date - not my preferred way to travel, but duty calls). My fridge has been set to the middle setting this entire time, running on gas. I have warm tilapia, room-temperature eggs, and a tepid jar of pickles (among other things) stinking up my motorhome. To give you some context, this fridge has been a very low-key problem child since shortly after I acquired the RV last summer. The thermocouple probe in the fridge compartment went bad and it started freezing EVERYTHING/running constantly - so I just disconnected it, set the fridge temperature/cooling cycle frequency manually with the slider, and coped with the blinky light that means "aaaaahhhh, I can't find the signal from the thermocouple!" up until about... I think two weeks ago? Around that time I noticed that it had stopped blinking, but the fridge was still cooling to the correct temperature for the setting, same as ever. Apparently something new happened during the last few days while I was wolfing down takeout on the road, and now it's just straight up broken. Some preliminary testing reveals the following: - If I set the fridge to 110v, I don't hear anything other than the "door is open" sensor click when I open/shut the door. This is, as far as I know, normal...? BUT I just connected to shore power, so I don't know if the fridge will cool down overnight if I leave it on electric. - If I set the fridge to gas, keep the door closed, and put it on its coldest possible setting, I do not hear the gas burner light (it's got electric ignition and I know what that sounds like when it lights). At all. Even though it should be on since the fridge is warm..... - But if I open the fridge door with it set to gas/coldest......... the gas burner lights right up and stays on UNTIL I SHUT THE DOOR. Then it poofs right out and I am left sad and thoroughly confused. What on earth would cause this?!?!?! Is there some other "smart" sensor in there that's gone bad? Do I need to pull it and tip it upside down? Do I need to make some sort of blood sacrifice to get it to work again? Or just pony up the cash to replace a decade-old RV fridge? Thank you for reading this wall of text, and if you have any idea as to what's going on or how to fix this, please comment and I'll try to follow along. -
Hi folks, I learned a "bit" about this skill from a machinist I worked with. I've messed up a few drill bits in my career (15 years as a Wood Model/Pattern Maker). I don't use this skill much, and recently I decided I couldn't see the grinder and bit as well as I would like so I went shopping for a drill bit sharpener online. After seeing the prices, I have decided to buy a bright light and a magnifier. And maybe a new set of bits. The price of a sharpener would justify it. I found this video and picked up a few tips I didn't know. I can add my own tips; Eyeball the angle. It's hard to tell if your grind is lopsided by eye but hold it up to the light and look anyway. The Web break should be roughly 45º to the cutting edges. Bit Wear. Check how your bit is wearing. If it's vibrating or if the relief is rubbing grind more off the shiny side. Shiny Spots. That's the side that's touching the work. Hand Sharpen Drill Bits - Youtube - 8+ minutes
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Hello everyone, I've got an Atwood 8525-II that has a loud rattling sound that comes and goes. Usually on start up then mellows out and comes back again. I can feel a bunch of play in the blower wheel when i fish my finger behind it and push on it. Is it the motor or the blower fan? Thanks!
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Hello friends, I try to get on my roof fairly regularly to check out how things are & clean & apply roof protectant. However, after this summer I saw something I had never seen on my roof before. I'm guessing that my roof is of the "rubber" variety. It's about 16 years old & is white. It seems to be scaling & flaking off in some places revealing a blueish - black material underneath. I don't believe it's leaking. I'm attaching a photo of this. What do I need to do to repair, prevent & protect my roof? Thanks in advance, Loxley
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Had this repaired and wanted to let others know should they be facing a similar repair. Accessory Drive - $475 (core charge - $150 - Returned) Fuel Pump - $388 (core charge - $90 - Returned) A few other small items (o-ring, gasket, new belt, etc) Actual Labor 7.2 hours Total with tax and other charges $1840 Symptom was oil leak from the Accessory Drive (pulley next to the AC compressor and below the Alternator) Volvo D12 Date 07/2015 Location: Volvo shop in Albert Lea, MN
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Darn it all.. I'm curious what folks do for windshield repairs. I've seen some of those DIY repair kits, and I know there are professional folks who will do it for you. Do the pro's really do that much of a better job? Are any of the multitude of brands of DIY kits better than another? What is a ballpark amount you have paid to have a professional do it? I've replaced windshields, but never dealt with just a little chip before. I guess I'm also curious if it's true that repairing it will prevent it from eventually expanding or is it just cosmetic. I guess it would be called a "starburst" chip about the size of the tip of my index finger. It's on the passenger side and doesn't obstruct any view. If I go the DIY route.. any tips or tricks? TIA
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We are looking for contact info of RV/trailer window manufacturers so we can buy replacement windows for our travel trailer. If you have suggestions, please reply. Thank you.
