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Found 2 results

  1. I have a flashing electrical warning panel light that seems to indicate i have a low voltage situation. When these lights flash, every system in the RV house flashing in unison (even the water tank level lights when I push that button to see my tank levels). These lights do not flash when I'm using the RV's generator, but they do flash when I'm using the shore power. What trouble shooting tips should I employ?
  2. This is on my 1992 Damon diesel pusher motorhome. Taillights, front parking lights and all clearance lights stopped working. I pulled the 20-amp fuse from the slot marked "taillights" and it tests good. Voltage test of the empty fuse slot shows exactly the same 12v on both sides of the fuse slot. This does not seem like something that should happen. Unplugged the multiple connector from the combination headlight/parking/instrument-dimmer switch. For those of you young folks who have never driven an older American car, this switch presents to the user as a k-n-o-b. When the k-n-o-b is in, nothing should be on. When the k-n-o-b is halfway out, the parking lights (amber front lights, red rear taillights and all the side lights and front and rear clearance lights) should be on and turning the k-n-o-b sets the brightness of the instruments on the dashboard. When the k-n-o-b is fully out, all of the aforementioned should continue to work and the headlights should work. When I unplugged the multiple connector from the combination headlight/parking/instrument-dimmer switch, the fuse slot appeared normal, with voltage on one side (the same as other circuits I checked on the same fuse block) and no voltage on the other side (the same as other circuits I checked on the same fuse block). I bought a new switch (it's a Ford part) and tested again. Same results except that there was a slight loss in voltage between the two sides of the fuse slot. This test is repeatable. I got out my ohm meter and analyzed both the new and old switches. They match well. Here is what I found out about each connection: A. The only one that is hot 12v on the harness. Has an orange wire. D1. Has a grey wire. No switch position connects it to any other. D1. Has a black wire. No switch position connects it to any other. P. Moot because it has no wire or connector on the harness side. Switch is configured to make this one hot only in the Park position. In ancient times, cars were wired so the front parking lights went off when the headlights were on. This would do that. H. Has red wire with orange stripe. Switch is configured to make it hot only in the Headlight position. B. Has red wire. Switch is configured to have this hot at all times. It seems to have a direct connection to A. regardless of switch position. Not sure what the purpose of that is. R. This is configured to be connected to A. in both the Park and the Headlight positions. It is also visually connected to the instrument-dimmer rheostat. The harness connector has a brown wire. This brown wire has been cut off short and connected with a wire nut to two yellow wires which disappear separately up into the dashboard and one blue wire which disappears into a large roll of overlong wires the size of a tennis ball, bound together with a cable tie. What could possibly go wrong? I. This is the other side of the rheostat. Accordingly, it tests with A in the Park and the Headlight positions. It tests with A. through k-n-o-b rotation from open to 3 ohms and gradually drops to zero ohms. Obviously, the next step is to disconnect the three non-stock wires from that bundle and test the fuse slot, then test it with each wire hooked up solo, I just know I am going to have to open up the tennis ball. I can hardly wait. Of course I had to type k-n-o-b because some forum software rejects a plain knob.
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