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Found 22 results

  1. Hi all, We just upgraded from a travel trailer to a HR Invicta motor home today. Not ready to pick up for a week as the washer-dryer combo still needs to be installed. Questions on Multi seal the dealership was suggesting for tires. The sales guy was suggesting it was great at preventing flats, but I am leery about any liquid inside the tires as it seems it would throw them off balance. Also promoting EcoRVPro ExteriorShiled coating and MicrobeRepel inside. At first look it seems the interior may be a "Scotchgaurd-like" application that would not be very safe as it likely off gasses. Any ideas or suggestions from anyone?
  2. So while everyone is ducking inside to hide from the heat advisories, thought I would quick post this, since I ducked inside for a bit as well. For those that venture into snow areas, what do you use for traction in snow? I am going with fairly aggressive tread pattern, but I know that doesn't solve everything. I've seen chains, ratchet cleats. Whats being used? Any horror stories of items to stay away from? Thanks everyone, finally have my 2007 Volvo!
  3. We have a new to us 2011 Kountry Aire fiver and I can't get an answer from Newmar re the wheels. Yes, I could take them off and look, but I don't currently have a location where that can be done. They're 16" dualies, but that's as far as I can get. Does anyone know the specs on these? Ford, Chevy, Dodge? I'd like to know if I can put higher pressure tires on them. TIA, Jay
  4. I hope I picked the right place for this, the local beach near my niece allows rv parking, but requires that you lower the tire pressure, I think to about 15lbs., before they let you on the beach. Is this safe for the tires, even for an overnight, in the sand? Is there anything that can be used for more traction/less beach disruption, besides letting out the air? Thanks-
  5. I didn't find a topic on this (sorry if I missed it, if so please let me know). I've heard that RV tires only last 5 years, even if they haven't reached their mileage limit. I've also heard that there are markings on the tires which will tell you their manufacture date. If 5 years is the tires' lifespan, is that from the date on the tires? Thanks-
  6. I had purchase a 2004 Tioga 26Q from a dealer. They said they put new tires on it. My question is how good are the tires and are they the correct tires. If someone could please help me because I already know what there answer will be. The tires are LT 225/75 R16 115/1120 10PR Load E range Max load single 2115 Kg (2680lbs) Max load dual 1120 Kg (2470 lbs) at 500 kps Wild Trail Commercial LIT DOT KA BK D25A . The RV is GVWR 14,050 FRONT GAWR 4,600 REAR GAWR 9,450 BASE WEIGHT 9,840 GCWR 19050 WHEELBASE 176 Any help or comments would be appreciated . Thank you
  7. Padraic

    HDT Tires

    Hi Guys, what is your opinion replaces old tires (Need all 10 tires). My Michelin XZA front tires (275/80R22.5) were new in 2005 with RV low mileage, but its high time to replace it due to age. How often you replace these tires? The 8 drive tires were a cheaper brand with size 295/75 R22.5. The front and rear tires are different, should they be the same? What brand do you prefer? I like Michelin, but going to be part-time RVing, so the truck gets even less use than before. Feel like putting Michelin would be a waste. Do you use drive tires same as the steer tires? I was not before but thinking using the same so I can use the rear tire for the front if I need it. Where do you get your tires? I got mine at Flying J Quartsite in 2005. Not sure the world of tires has changed. Can people mail order and has a local shop mount it? Appreciated your response.
  8. I want to share a really good experience with the group. My fiver is a Newmar, with dual tandem axles. It takes 235/85/16 tires just like on dually pickups. I decided to buy tires online from Discount Tires Direct. The sales person I spoke with was knowledgeable, and I stressed these tires were to be used on an RV. I wanted FRESH tires, because the age is important. Well, when the tires arrived by UPS, I checked the dates. Three of them were 2017, but 5 were from mid year 2016. I contacted them about this, and was pleasantly surprised they would step right up to the plate for me. A pickup order was issued no cost to me, and the rep (Charlie Ellsworth) went above & beyond to get me all late 2017 tires. They are all here and I couldn't be happier. Would I buy again, Youbetcha! Note- I have NO connection other than this purchase, but this customer service deserves to be mentioned!
  9. Hey everyone im new here! i apologize if this is in the wrong area mod :/ recently bought a new to me 1994 Coachmen Santara 35' gasser. first rv for me so going through the growing pains of owning a rv but i didint realize the agony of trying to find load range f or g tires for this thing. Any ideas on what tires i should get? I was looking at the Sailun S637T or the Westlake CR960A All Position tires both are g rated.
  10. Hi All, We are needing new rear tires (4) and have just started doing research. The Double Coin Tires is a new one to us. Doing internet reviews turns up a mixed bag. Has anyone ever used them and what do you think about them? Thanks, Diane Hitzel
  11. I want to share an "experience" I had recently, to alert other RVers to what can happen when you are "out on the road". In October, I was traveling through Utah and stopped at a Flying J in Scipio, UT for fuel. I pulled into their facility and stopped in front of their tire shop (G&G Service) waiting for an open spot at the pumps. A young man ran out of the tire shop and told me that I had a bad tire on the 5th wheel; he showed me which tire it was and said it was showing signs of "tread separation" as I pulled up. He said it was unsafe to drive with that tire, and offered to put on my spare. I could not see what he was talking about on the tire, but thought he probably knew more about tires that I did, so I agreed to have the spare put on. I pulled around to their service area and he jacked up my RV and pulled off the tire in question. Then, another man came over and looked at the other 3 tires and said that another tire was equally bad. and emphasized that it was not safe to run those tires any further; he made it sound pretty bad! He pointed out the tires were 5 years old (which I knew) and even though they had lots of tread left, they had "deteriorated" and were coming apart. He said he had "the best trailer tire" on sale then and could put me on a new set right away. The tires were: Gladiator QR 35TR ST-235/85 R16, 12 ply; the tire listed at $400 and he had them on sale for ONLY $350! That price seemed pretty high to me, but they looked like a strong heavy-duty tire and I was quite concerned based on what he was telling me. I had planned on getting new tires soon, but had not priced any yet, so I didn't know what was a reasonable price. So, I told him to put on a set of 4 new tires: total = $1503. After we got to our destination, I looked up some information on that tire, and found that was rated pretty good as a heavy duty trailer tire. However, I found several places that I could buy the tire for $150 - $200. I felt that I had been "railroaded" and taken advantage of by that tire shop, and had paid about double what those tires should have cost! After a few days of stewing about it, I emailed the "manager" of that company (he was listed on the invoice) and told him what happened and said that I felt I had paid way too much for those tires and asked for a partial refund. Much to my surprise, about a week later he emailed me back and said he would send me a check for $800! And in a few days I got the check! So, I feel like I came out OK on the tires and think they are pretty good tires, but was upset about the high-pressure sales tactics that the tire shop guys used. So, beware when you're out on the road and might need service.
  12. Afternoon, Thank you in advance for reading and hopefully replying to this question. Recently our F450 was hit by '13 Honda Accord at the front bumper/right tire area. Good news is - everyone walked away. Bad new is - the F450 is not drivable. Questions: 1) The oil filter was knocked loose and the oil drained out of the engine. It was a very large puddle of oil. We are not sure if the engine stalled before the key was turned off or not. If it did not stall, not certain how long the engine ran spilling out oil. How deadly is this to a diesel engine. I want to have some knowledge when the mechanic tells me about the engine. 2) A large chunk of the front tire was removed during the accident. The insurance only wants to replace the damaged tire. We have 18,000 miles on the truck. If the tread depth is no symmetrical does this effect the towing and handling properties? I know that you cannot rotate front to rear on a dually. 3) Any suggestions on how to insure that the rest of the motor and frame are undamaged? What questions I should be asking and what tests to require? I am nervous about not having the truck repaired correctly and hauling our 19,000# Voltage down the road. It is a safety issue for us and those around us. Thank you and God bless, Cindi
  13. It is time for tire replacement. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase new tires on Long Island, NY? We are looking for Michelin XRV's. Also, what should the average price for these be? I am getting quotes of $450 per tire.
  14. Yesterday was such a BEAUTIFUL day (not). We are getting ready to head up to Northern Indiana Monday. Doing my pre-trip inspection, I poked my head under the front of the Volvo to check the brake adjustment and noticed what appeared to be a brake shoe that had popped lose from a rivet - there was an obvious space between the metal part of the shoe and the lining. Now, I did not consider this to be a good thing....... Remember I am pretty much a leftie right now and can't do any heavy lifting, pulling, pushing or tugging with my right arm (broke June 13)..... so that immediately ruled out my taking off a 200# wheel, tire and brake drum to take a closer look. Sooooo.... it was off to the Volvo shop to see what they could do. Rewind a moment. Before I crawled under the truck to take my first look I laid my iPhone on the front fender so it wouldn't get damaged as I scooted in on the blacktop driveway. Nancy had gone out shopping earlier and as she was pulling in the driveway I hollered to her that I was off to the Volvo shop to check on the brakes. The iPhone (I forgot) was still sitting on the front fender. Once I got to the Volvo shop I was told yes they had the parts, but no, they were backed up in the shop and it would be Monday before they could get to me. That's when I reached for my iPhone and realized it was on the front fender of the truck. Immediate visions of a squashed phone ran through my mind. Worse yet, I had no way to call Nancy to see if maybe it had safely fallen off in the driveway (where the heck are payphones these days?). I bought the brake parts (drums & shoes) and decided to head over to the T/A just up the road hoping they could put them on - if not, I would have to solicit help from my son or grandson at home. They had no one in the service bays and could change of the brakes like right now. One hour labor - bringing parts was OK. Sounds like a deal to me! The drums were $179 each and the brake kits $43 each with a $39 core charge at Volvo. Yes, I returned the cores. I possibly could have gotten Mack parts to fit my Meritor front end for less money - but I didn't have time to go shopping. After the truck was jacked up and the front tires were off the mechanic comes over to me and asks me to come back into the shop to look at "something". He shows me the right front tire.... there is a big fist size chunk of rubber missing from the tread. I vaguely remember running over an unidentifiable hunk of metal in the road coming back from Florida in April. Why I did not notice or feel the damage to the tire is a mystery to me (guess it was at the bottom of the tire when parked). As everyone knows, you don't replace just one front steer tire, if one gets damaged you replace both of them. So, a new set of rubber goes on the front of the Volvo. The had a "tire sale" but add in the Federal Excise Tax, sales tax, mounting, balancing and valve stems and it doesn't seem like much of a sale. At least they bought back my one still good used front tire for almost enough to pay for the add-on charges. I'm still thinking about my iPhone. All the pictures, apps, phone contacts, etc. Why didn't I recently back it up to the cloud? What's a new one going to cost me? Can't call Nancy to tell her what is going on! A few hours later with a new set of front steer tires and brakes I head home - all the time scanning the highway for a crushed piece of plastic. I finally pull in the driveway and look around - Nada, nothing, no iPhone to be found. As I walk into the house I comment to Nancy that I need to go to Verizon and get a new phone. She replies, "Oh, I found it in the driveway but couldn't call you because you didn't have your phone." At least one thing turned out OK...... well, maybe all three - the damaged tire may have been OK but I wasn't going to chance it - they were 5 years old and about due for replacement anyway. The brakes also might have worked just fine for many thousands of more miles. But, for piece of mind I know a potential set of problems has been avoided. It's always something, isn't it . Now, I think I better take the time to back up the iPhone to the Cloud - if I can remember the password!
  15. 275/70R-22.5 Goodyear G670 RV Tires Load Range H 6 Like new, take offs, 2950 miles, $400. each by the pair or $375 each all six Located in Ohio 419 564-270three, franklingensvc at mail.com SKP #64605
  16. Hi folks. May I please have some opinions about whether I should replace my existing tires before going to Alaska? I'll do my own homework and the decision is mine, but help would be great. Facts on existing tires, truck and trailer: 2011 Ford F350 Lariat 4WD, DRW Existing tires: BF Goodrich Rugged Trail T/A LT 245/75R17 121/118R Manufactured August 2010 Tires have 1/4" tread depth and have been rotated, so wear is uniform Tires don't seem to have evident cracking and seem to help pressure well over long time periods Tires have 30,000 miles, about 50% towing 18,000# CarriLite 36XTRM5, balance around town not towing My camper weights 18,000#, so I'm at about 27,000# all-in (truck + trailer) as to GVWR on truck Truck spare is full sized same tire Camper spare is a smaller wheel G614 Goodyear manufactured in 2010 (what it had before I bought G114s and upsized the wheels) Trip Trip is to Alaska leaving May 2016. I'd stay over Winter (not in the RV), then leave Alaska October 2017 back to Seattle Trip is all driving, no ferry. Up shortest round: Cassier, Back: no telling. Probably drive everywhere in Alaska; gravel roads don't worry me All-in, Tampa back down to Seattle: 13,000 miles or more. Gravel and snow won't be unusual If snow, I'd throw chains or socks on Thoughts If I replace the tires now, I'd try to sell the used tires. If selling them was a hassle, then I'd either store them in my warehouse or discard them. I know absolutely zero about used tires and not much about new ones either If I roll with what I have, I'd be at 43,000 miles when I get back to Seattle I have no idea what tread will be left when I return after towing on this journey I can afford to replace them, if this is prudent, but don't want to waste money I have new Goodyear G114s on my camper Questions What should I do on the tires? What tires should I buy? (all season seems to make sense + chains or socks for snow)? Is my existing G614 Goodyear camper spare sufficient? Is having only 1 truck spare sufficient, or should I carry a second? Sorry the long post. I hope all are well.
  17. It's time for new tires on our motor home. I have Goodyears now, but salesmen are pushing Sumitomos for a hundred or so less per tire. They claim it is a big tire manufacturer, and a good tire. There is no government rating to compare. Does anyone have experience with Sumitomos? Is it a good tire? What about Toyo tires? Also, I am looking at buying at Big O Tires, because there seems to be more of them across the country than any other dealer. See any problem with them? (We are in Phoenix now.) Thanks, John Parker
  18. I have a travel trailer about 1 year old with its original tires. The tires have about 10,000 miles on them. Tread is good and no unusua wear or damage to them. One of the four tires slowly leaks air. For example if I'm parked for about a week, I will need to add about 3 to 4 pounds of air. 50# is max recommended pressure. Someone suggested I use slime to fix the slow leak. I'm not sure about that product. I'm leaning towards having the tire checked out by a qualified individual. By the way, the trailer came with no jack. Is that typical of having no jack to change a tire? If I should get a jack, any suggestions on type would be appreciated. Thanks, BoilerMike
  19. Hi All, I'm getting ready to replace my 5W tires. Present tires are LT235 85R16. It is a 2 axle, 14,100 GVW Hitchhiker. Any thoughts on best types and brands?
  20. My local Big O Tire guy, who seems pretty knowledgeable and went so far as to suggest using LT tires on my 5er, just told me that NO manufacturer is producing ST's in america. He claims they have all moved trailer tire production to China . IS that possible? He claims even Goodyear is doing it.
  21. We're picking up our new (to us) motorhome on Saturday -- a 1999 Beaver Contessa DP. First on my list of add-ons is a TPMS and I have a TST 507RV unit set to arrive on Friday. There's a youtube video showing setup. One step references the tires' running pressure. I think cold tire pressure setting is pretty easy to obtain. Is there a generally accepted ratio between cold and running pressures? Thanks, Larry
  22. Every RV owner should read this Michelin RV Tire Guide. Michelin goes into great detail about what every RV'er should know about using and maintaining their tires. This applies to all brands and manufacturers of tires, not just Michelin. I am posting this because of a topic about buying an used RV which branched off into a detailed discussion about tires.
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