Dutch_12078

As current fulltimers, we no longer drop our Dish service when we're not traveling, but we do have a Hopper and Joey installed at our family's lakeside cottage in upstate NY as well as a Hopper installed in our motorhome. All of our equipment is purchased and we've never been under contract with Dish. One of the Hoppers costs $12 (Loyalty discount) per month and the other $5, with both on the same Outdoor account.

National General has been an Allstate company since 2020.

Allstate acquires National General in $4bn transaction September 2020 | DEALFRONT | MERGERS & ACQUISITIONS https://www.financierworldwide.com/allstate-acquires-national-general-in-4bn-transaction#.ZD3wy9LMLbg

I'm still using TST 507 sensors I bought in 2011, including one that was on a tire that blew out from a road debris hit. The blown tire took out a bunch of wires and damaged a bin, but the TPMS sensors on both duals survived just fine. In all the years I've had TST sensors, I've only had one fail, and that was shortly after putting it in service and it was promptly replaced by TST under warranty.

If there's a downside to knowing that your tire pressures are correct before heading out without the effort of manually checking each tire with a gauge and being alerted instantly any time a tire pressure or temperature falls outside of the preset ranges, then I haven't found it in the 15 years I've been using a TST TPMS.

Pictures of a sensor and the booster could help us narrow down the brand and model.

Like Don, I leave those services on as well and still see about 24 hours of battery life before needing to recharge with normal usage. I need Bluetooth on to connect the phone to my hearing aids, and WiFi calling works even when the carrier signal is weak or non-existent. As said, location serves several apps that I use regularly, and also allows my wife to easily keep track of my whereabouts with my permission.

If your NH already has TST 507 sensors and the display, then adding an additional 6 sensors for your HDT is quite easy. The color display supports up to 38 sensors.

My 10 standard TST 507 cap sensors are accurate within a pound. I don't find them any more difficult to remove for airing up than removing a standard valve cap.

The title of the article is misleading of course, since the large files are not actually "sent" to the recipient as an attachment. Gmail does make the process easier though, by creating the embedded link that is sent to the recipient. For files larger than 10 GB, we can still do it the "old" way by uploading the file to an online storage that accepts larger files and creating our own inks.

I was able to sign in to the MyDish app on my Android phone this morning for the first time since the attack occurred. I was even able to change my locals with a few taps as usual. Happy camper!

When we're in a campground that doesn't accept USPS, UPS, or Fedex guest shipments, I check to see if Amazon has a locker location nearby before ordering. That removes any concerns about which carrier will be used.

You left off where I said, "In those cases, the sites we take are ones that we know from visual inspection are easily capable of taking the few extra feet and access is not an issue."

On return visits to some parks, we do sometimes take sites that are listed as a few feet shorter than our motorhome. In those cases, the sites we take are ones that we know from visual inspection are easily capable of taking the few extra feet and access is not an issue. In one case, one of our favorite water view sites at a Georgia state park is listed at 30 feet max, yet we know our 34 foot motorhome fits with room to spare. It seems the listed length is left over from a previous listing before the park sites were completely rebuilt several years ago. We've stayed on that site a few times now, and even with our screen house set up behind the coach and our car in front of it, there's still room to spare. When we reserve online, I do have to fib about our length to get the site, but the one time I reserved by phone, they never asked the length.

It seems to me that you've basically turned an RV into a "tiny house" that's no longer suited for RV life. Residential toilet tanks for instance, don't typically lend themselves to the rigors of RV travel over time. Draining the tank and bowl before moving the rig would help, but the minimal support for the toilet tank could still be an issue. And of course your unit is no longer usable for all but the most limited boondocking where an external water supply and sewage disposal are not available. While the work you've done certainly appears to be well done, in my opinion, it's no longer an RV in the fullest sense of the term.

There was a small RV dealer not too far from our upstate NY base that closed down last fall. He only dealt with trailers, no motorized RV's. At 70, he wanted to retire and couldn't find a buyer for the business, so he deeply discounted the remaining stock and shut it down. The property is still for sale I believe. I picked up some odds and ends of spare parts during the sale, most at 50% off.

Did you miss the little + and - magnifying glasses in the lower right corner?

The latest version of NFPA 70, the NEC, is the 2023 edition. I have not yet compared 551 from the 2020 edition with the current edition to look for any changes.

Sorry Lou, I needed to re-read your post to see what I missed. Old age I guess...

As I'm sure you know, Lou, RV city water inlets typically include a check valve that prevents water from back feeding in to the source.

That's correct of course, but combining the accumulator and pump with the city water supply as has been suggested, does make the situation much better. I've found that an accumulator is also helpful when a park has good pressure but low flow. The pressure builds up in the accumulator to help balance out the low flow without running the pump.

We have a 2 gallon accumulator tank I purchased at Lowes years ago for about $50 as I recall. It works very well for both reducing the pump cycling and stabilizing the water pressure. It's not uncommon that we can go all night with the usual old age bathroom visits without the pump running at all. In our case, installation was pretty easy since there was room enough in the water pay for the tank in a location where it was convenient to the water line feed from the pump.

John is correct of course, so I'll just note that nearly all standard residential panels like the Square D in our RV are equipped for easy conversion from a bonded neutral/ground to isolated neutral and ground by simply lifting or removing a bonding strap.

Yes, that was certainly a factor in our purchase decision as well. I did note as well that upgrading to a larger panel with additional breaker slots would be a relatively easy task, but the need hasn't come up. I could also simply replace an existing single breaker with another tandem breaker of course.

Our 50 amp Landau Class A uses a standard Square D QC Load Center for the breaker box. Complete with a double pole, single handle, 50 amp main breaker. Every other breaker is on the same leg. This is the same panel that's often used as the primary panel in small buildings or as a sub-panel in larger buildings.