jesfl45

Good morning folks, I have a Dometic 2-way fridge cooling issue, a sudden change in the cooling operation. I just spent considerable time reading posts here. I also saved an article about 18 common Dometic fridge problems and solutions, and there was nothing in it addressing this issue. As background, I just spent 7 days boondocking on the beach In the Padre Island National Seashore. While there, my propane flame went out (blew out?) numerous times. I noticed it by the rising temperature from my inside freezer/fridge thermometer. I would turn off the fridge for a short while and then turn it back on (on propane) and it would light and run just fine for hours. However, by the end of my stay on the beach because of this on/off problem, the inside refrigerator temps had increased from my typical 38d/5d to 52d/16d and would not cool any lower, even overnight with cooler temps/no sun. I attributed the fridge temp creeping higher to the periods of the propane being off before I restarted the fridge. I attributed the propane going off to the very heavy winds on the beach with the RV parked with the fridge vent on the windward side. (Note: I installed a glass baffle to replace the metal wind guard so I could see whether the flame was on/off with a glance through the exterior opening cover, so wind being the cause of the propane going off really does not seem logical to me, but . . . maybe?) Now I am at an RV park and I have tested the fridge running 24 hours on propane and 24 hours on electric. The propane flame did not go off during this test and the refrigerator cooled OK, albeit much more slowly than previous to my beach stay? Of concern is that the lowest the inside temps have gone now is 46 degrees in the fridge and 14 degrees in the freezer after 75 hours of continuous operation. Something seems to have changed? Any thoughts from anyone about (a) what caused this change, and (b) solutions to return the fridge to its previous (much better) cooling levels. Reference facts: - Dometic RM26562, replaced control board in mid-2020, - Freezer is nearly full, fridge is only 2/3 full, - No frost on the cooling fins, some frost in fridge, thermocoupler sensor on the right-most fin inside, - no signs of coolant leaks (yellow stuff) or ammonia smell, - added interior 12v fan for air circulation and exterior 12v fan blowing air out the vents, Yes, I'm in mid-80's temps in Texas, but I also was in the higherr temps for a week before I went to Padre Island and the fridge was cooling great running completely on propane. To me, it's just odd -- both the propane flame going out while on the beach in the wind, and the fact that the fridge is suddenly not cooling like it was? Or could this change just be a precursor to a complete failure for my 2004-vintage Dometic fridge? Any comments/suggestions will be helpful. Thank you in advance for any ideas you offer. jesfl45

Good morning all, I want to say thank you, once more, to all who helped with my mystery power problem fiasco. I thought you might like to know that, yesterday, I completed the rewiring of all the system elements -- both 120 volt-AC and 12-volt DC -- that I disconnected to eliminate possible issues when in search of the source of the pedestal power problem. I had forgotten how many connections I disconnected so it was more than a small chore to reconnect everything. In the process, I replaced some 19-year-old wiring and checked all connections. I also wired in my new 3-way switch with options for selecting the power source -- pedestal AC power, solar system inverter power, or generator power. Since the transfer switch is gone, this prevents me from accidentally leaving more than one AC power input source connected at a time. Much safer and more convenient, I feel. So, I'm back in full service with all three of my 120-volt power sources. Oddly, I've found that I am asking myself many questions about AC power systems and wiring the last few days. So I started creating a list of those things yet to learn. I've decided I'll approach it a bit like I did learning about solar systems and their wiring, where I found some excellent online "courses" and went to school. So, THANK YOU ! ! ! Again and again, I say it, for your gracious assistance and support. I am overflowing with gratitude. Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU ! ! ! Jim (jesfl45)

Good morning to all, It's a happy morning here. I finally completed the move of my rig and plugged into a different pedestal late yesterday at sundown. Hallelujah! POWER ! ! ! Everything that is 120 VAC connected in the RV seems to be working perfectly overnight, knock on wood! THE PEDESTAL WAS THE PROBLEM, apparently! One lesson here is “listen to thy neighbors!” If I’d just moved when the neighbor stopped by and told me others had problems with the (old site’s) pedestal, I would have saved myself two weeks of grief! Thank goodness for my solar system! The thought crossed my mind, however, that I probably would have tried to move to a different site/pedestal had it not been for my solar power working so well. FYI, there are only minor differences in my wiring connections and the connectors from the last time I hard-wired the pedestal power to the WFCO panel to test. I don’t think, but don’t know for sure, that either was the problem. They are: (1) The new pedestal -- which still looks just as old and worn -- has a 30 amp pedestal plug, so no 50/30 dog bone converter cord; and, (2) I replaced the 19-year-old 30A/15A 2-pole Cutler-Hammer main breaker with a new Siemens breaker in the WFCO power panel. Note: Last night/this morning, I am still using my 8’ temporary power cable from the SmartPlug input at the rear of the RV directly to the WFCO power distribution panel. I’ll have to replace that this morning and reconnect the original in-floor Romex-type wiring to the WFCO box. So, my assumption has to be that my “mystery power problem” was some gremlin in the old pedestal? I don’t know of any other deductive reasoning conclusion? YES! I am ecstatic that I now have 120V power. But I am feeling quite displeased by myself that finding the cause of my power problem was such a long and frustrating process . . . and that ultimately never yielded an absolutely clear answer about the cause? Is finding an electrical problem always so difficult? There’s gotta’ be an easier way? If you will be so kind to help me clear my head via a couple of follow-up questions: What did I do wrong? What else could I have done to diagnose that the pedestal was the problem? My two load tests didn’t show any significant or voltage drop? So I assumed it was not a pedestal loading problem, after your counsel. Bad assumption, I guess? I’m not opening pedestals, because that’s waaaaaay too much risk at my limited knowledge level! Even more so on a power pedestal that doesn’t even have a breaker. The city’s electrician never showed up over two weeks of supposed requests by the park manager. Had the city electrician come to test the pedestal, what might he have seen/tested that would have shown the pedestal was the problem? For my future reference, is there any other test I could have run that would have revealed the power pedestal as the problem? I’m now turning my focus to permanently re-wiring and cleaning up after my pedestal power fiasco. I’m exhausted, mentally and physically from fighting this problem over 3 weeks. I hope I never have such an issue again! I’ll let you know if all is still working perfectly after I complete the cleanup and all of the permanent wiring. Once again, I want to express my enduring gratitude for everyone on this forum who has offered advice and possible solutions. My learning has been immense, thanks to all of you. My confidence in my electrical knowledge, however, has gone down quite a bit. That’s because I have learned so many new things from those of you here. I am no longer completely veiled in electrical ignorance BECAUSE I NOW REALIZE HOW MUCH I STILL NEED TO LEARN! I’ve undertaken a lot of online research while the problem-solving has been going on! The positive side benefit of that is I have accumulated quite a digital reference file of articles and testing techniques that I can use in the future should another problem arise (as I assume it will)! There will never, ever be enough “thank you’s” for all everyone here has done assisting and supporting my efforts. Please know that your gracious assistance will never be forgotten. Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU! Jim (jesfl45)

Good afternoon gents, I was supposed to move to new RV park lot site yesterday (Tuesday), but the people there didn't vacate. They say they'll be gone before dark tonight. As that approaches, it seems unlikely today, again. So, waiting, impatiently. Heard back from the Progressive Industries tech people about the surge protector I plugged into and tested load through. The short version of their "two possibilities" for the indicator/test lights going off in the surge protector (under load) were: (1) the power through the surge protector was so low for a (nano) second that the indicator lights turned off and did not recycle when the power was back full, or (2) there are defective LED's in the unit (which they will gladly fix under warranty if that is the problem. Since the lights came back on after the load test, to me neither seems to make sense. Oh, well. Received and installed the new main 30A/15A 2-pole breaker today while waiting to move. While I have no idea whether that is a factor, I feel better safer with the new one installed after seeing all the rust on the 19 year old breaker. And, I want to say thank you again. While I've been ruminating the past couple of days, I'm realizing the full depth and breadth of the electrical information everyone so helpfully and graciously provided. While I'm a long way from feeling I know as much as I need to know, (and I will continue to be very careful), I do feel I now have a better shot at finding and solving SOME future problems that might arise. The testing everyone suggested is clearly a key, and something I need to learn more about so I can use the knowledge more effectively. By the way, here's one for y'all that's probably worth a chuckle, or maybe even a good-sized guffaw. I made a minor breaker change in my solar system today. While doing that, I had the thought that you electrically knowledgeable folks will probably marvel at the fact I completed the system without killing myself. But, truth is, I can follow a wiring diagram . . . ! There were a few glitches along the way -- like three Chinese LiFePO4 batteries I purchased just flat dying one day leaving me powerless in the middle of the Arizona desert last winter. It turned out it was the BMS in the batteries. But, at that time, I didn't really know what a BMS was or did. Now, I can build my own LiFePO4 batteries, wire the BMS, etc. (Blue cells in the front of the photo, a 200Ah battery; and another set of cells is on the way for an additional 300 Ah battery.) Yep, even I, myself, am astonished that I completed it. Given my difficulty solving my current power mystery problem, I'm feeling very, very lucky that I got the system up and running and that it is working so well. And, yep, I do laugh at myself a lot about it (the solar system) and other dumb things I do but somehow seem to muddle through . . . with the help of wonderful human beings like those of you who have been helping me here. I'll let you know when I am moved to the new site and connected to a different power pedestal. I am hopeful! Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU ! ! ! Jim (jesfl45)

Good morning, everyone, Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! I continue to be hopeful and thankful for all of your education and troubleshooting suggestions. Today is a medical day, so little more happens. Tomorrow I am resolved to moving to a different lot at this RV park, since there is no other way to connect to a different power pedestal. (FYI, Park manager, at this mostly mobile homes park, reported he found no one who had a portable generator. Several Class A's had built in's, but that doesn't help. Late yesterday afternoon, I took apart all 3 connectors I've wired to check once again, for the umpty-umpth time. All three were correctly connected, as I knew. But I trimmed and re-stripped the wire ends and tightened them down. Reconnected to pedestal. same result. (Do I really need to buy a torque screwdriver for tightening electrical screws, as some articles I've read suggests?) I also emailed Progressive Industries again about the surge protector, specifically why the green-blue testing lights went off when load was applied in one of the previous load tests. I did try powering up without the surge protector once before, but, you're right, I need to do that again. I haven't done so for as few days. So, late today. If that doesn't magically change anything, I'll report after I move to a new lot/pedestal and try AC power again. My gratitude continues to be overwhelming. Thank you, once more. Jim (jesfl45)

Good morning gentlemen, THERE IS A NEW "ODDITY" (to me) that I did not previously notice . . . until after my "full-length-of-30 amp-input wiring" test failed this morning. I could send many photos, but won't. The BOTTOM LINE is that with my "testing-only 30 amp female receptacle" hard-wired to the main 30 amp cable, there was 122.2 volts, as you see in the following pix. Again, this is a direct connection, per the previous drawing from the power pedestal to the point where I make hard-wired connections for whichever power source I was using. Light blue = 30 amp test plug; yellow = 30 amp to 15 amp adapter; plus the obvious 3-way 15 amp/120 volt plug. Power is to/in the plug, as you see. When plugging in (a) heater, and (b) heat gun . . . NEITHER HAD POWER even though the multimeter read 122.2 volts at that moment in the same 3-way plug to which the heater and heat gun were connected. How the H--- is that possible? Then I began testing backwards toward the pedestal, AGAIN. Same voltage +/- at (a) SmartPlug connection to RV; (b) Progressive surge protector, (c) 50 amp 30 amp dog bone, and (d) pedestal receptacle. BUT, here's the conundrum. I pulled out my phone to look at the previously sent pix of the pedestal LOAD TEST I did a couple of days ago. Pix downloaded again below. With no load on pedestal through only the 50/30 dog bone and surge protector, 118.4 volts. Progressive surge protector test lights on OK. Moments later: 1500 watt load (heater attached), voltage down 2.5 volts (sorry, I said 3.0 volts previously). Notice the difference? I sure did not until this morning. ODDITY: The Progressive Industries test lights are completely OFF when the 1500 watt load is added; yet there's still power through the surge protector with only the 2.5 volts decrease. I ran the same test again this morning. Same result. Surge protector test lights on with no load, test lights OFF when both 750 watts and 1500 watts load added. Any idea why? Then I started thinking through the whole 30 amp power input connections -- wiring and adapters. I realized these two are the same: (1) This morning's full-length 30 amp power-in test: test: voltage tests OK in 3-way plug, but nothing works when plugged-in? (2) This morning's (and many previous) tests of 30 amp power to the WFCO distribution show 122 volts TO the main breaker; but, no power in sub-breakers? (John T, I don't really know how to test if power is getting through the main 30 amp breaker? That's a limit to my knowledge. When I tested the breaker, I put the positive prong of the multimeter to the black wire at the screw connection to the main 30 amp breaker, and the negative multimeter probe to the green ground connection on the ground block in the box. Every test has been 120+ volts.) So, (1) and (2) examples show voltage but no power. Jumpcut to the pix of Progressive surge protector. (3) Is the "loaded power OK" multimeter reading, BUT Progressive TEST LIGHTS OUT the same as (1) and (2)? There is 120+ volts showing, but through the rest of the 30 amp power input wiring, nothing working? Perhaps a pattern? Which with my limited knowledge, leads me back to the pedestal as the cause of this problem?. Can an RV park pedestal work OK, test OK (multimeter), and still have something screwed up inside that will cause the 3 oddities above? Thoughts? Why does this happen? Last night and this morning, I've read more about pedestal power problems. The issue of reversed connections came up, but I couldn't find a good explanation? Can a pedestal have two connections reversed -- i.e. hot/ground or hot/neutral -- and still work and test OK with a multimeter? Yes, I got out my plug-in tester again and checked at the dog bone and surge protector. Both read with two lights = correct wiring. So how could it be the pedestal? OR, Do I need to contact Progressive Industries again, this time about why their test lights going out under load? Kirk: I agree there is always a possibility I have made a mistake with wiring somewhere? In the case of this 120 volt power problem, however, we're only dealing with 4 connections that I had anything to do with -- one is the screw-on wire connection you see in pix; two are the in/out of the new SmartPlug, and the fourth is the new 30 amp male plug I added to the main cable just to be sure everything is perfect. (I opened up that new plug again an hour ago to check.) The SmartPlug connectors color-coded and the plug is labeled with unmistakable BLACK (+) and WHITE (-). Those 3 connections I made are good, 100%. I'd have to be very very drunk for them not to be, and I don't drink. Elsewhere in the RV over time, I would not be surprised to find mistakes I made. I'll get back to you on that . . . Georgia, Given today's testing problem, and my newly discovered oversight on the previous pedestal load test, my focus is back on the blankety-blank pedestal as the source of the problem. I just don't know how the pedestal could be the cause of all this? Still waiting on park manager about a genset to borrow. Last week, most out of curiosity, I actually got out my 25' tape and measured to the next pedestal that worked and tested with proper power. But, then, numerous tests showed my current 50 amp pedestal OK, too. That nearest pedestal is actually over 200 feet away. (Long explanation, short version, park is hybrid mobile home park. I am temp here, already 45 days longer stay than hoped/planned. I'm on a distant corner with only directly wired mobile homes around. (RV power pedestals -- and that is a very gracious label for the dinosaur electrical hookups here with dryer connections for 30 amp power -- here, are few and far between.) Also discussed moving to a different site with the park manager. I'm now resolved to doing that on Tuesday if the pedestal is the most likely consensus mystery problem source? -- It is not any of the three wiring connections. (John T, I'm not going to buy and cut up another new 30 amp power cable to run directly through the door(?) to the WFCO panel. Tired of spending $$$'s trying to fix this. Will move instead.) -- I don't understand how it could be the main breaker or WFCO box? And it probably is not, because when the solar inverter power is hard-wired instead of the shore power, everything in the WFCO box works fine. (Back to the pedestal as the problem?) -- I also don't understand how it could be the pedestal, either, after all of the testing (again this morning). But it is a dinosaur and very old, so maybe? (Please remember, everything had been working fine for slightly over 2 months, until the overheating of the 30 amp connection to the RV. Could that overheating caused something to change inside the pedestal? Or did something inside the pedestal cause the overheating? Another mystery.) What is going on? What am I missing? Thanks to all, again. Very frustrated here. Jim (jesfl45)

Georgia & John T, Yep, running a generator seems like a good idea to me. Especially in light of the still-no-solution status for the mystery problem. Generator Test Georgia, FYI, I have an on-board 3600 kw Onan propane. In the beginning of this marathon (Feb. 12), the generator complicated this forum's discussion with comments about the genset and the transfer switch. SO, I eliminated both. Genset needs service (my fault), so I disconnected it COMPLETELY (actually cut wire to transfer switch), not really wanting to run it until after that service. Removed the transfer switch, which was literally in the trash 9 days ago, gone forever. That left a clean, simple no possible complications wiring connection from power pedestal to WFCO power panel, per my previously posted simplistic drawing. But, this afternoon, I decided that running a generator was a very good testing idea worth a shot. So, I decided to go ahead and fire up my Onan, even before the needed service (small risk, I hope). I disconnected the solar system inverter power and reconnected the genset (alone, to the single power input, per drawing and photos). But, here's the rub. The genset is wired into the system's WFCO power distribution panel. It will not fire up unless that panel is "live" with power. The panel is dead when the genset is connected. And, I'm suffering from electrical-problem-burnout after two weeks of trying to find a solution. So, I'm not about to touch any of the genset wiring because it all worked perfectly before this current problem arose. What I am thinking, however, is I will find the manager of the RV park and see if he knows anyone with a portable generator. Even testing with that will require some kind of temporary wiring, because I am not un-wiring my new SmartPlug 30 amp power cord connector after so many voltage and continuity tests of it. IF I can find a portable genset to borrow, I'll test and let you know the results. That won't happen until tomorrow, earliest. Wiring Test (Additional) John T, always keeping in mind your penchant for a bad (something) being the problem, I realized (when wiring/unwiring the genset a while ago) that there was one short wire I had never checked for continuity or any visible damage. That is the short 10/3 cable that connects into the WFCO panel to/through which I have been hard-wiring one or the other power source -- solar system generator or pedestal power. That 14", or so, short wire was once the single output cable from the transfer switch (gone) to the WFCO panel. This afternoon, I disconnected that cable from the WFCO panel and main 30 amp breaker. I pulled it out and tested continuity, and it was all 0.00. (I know voltage worked through the old wire because I previously read 120+ volts tested with multimeter prongs on the breaker input connection wire and the main system ground . . . and I've been using it to input solar inverter power for 2 weeks! BUT, that cable was obviously OLD (18+ years) and kinda' nasty looking, even though I saw no signs of overheating when looking closely. SO I replaced that wire, too. And, along the way I checked every other 120 volt wire connection in the WFCO box. You know the rest. Reconnected the power pedestal. Same deal as for 2 weeks. No 120 volt power. Disconnected power pedestal and reconnected solar system inverter, 120+ volt power throughout RV, wall outlets, appliances, etc., etc. But there's more, as they say. I pulled out the old 2-pole 30/15 MAIN breaker in this old RV. It looked as grungy as the power-in cable I replaced, with rust on rivets holding the outside casing together, etc. I already ordered last week a replacement breaker (hard to find) for that main Cutler-Hammer BD3015 (small size). It should arrive early this coming week. I have no idea whether that breaker could be "a" problem or "the" problem, but after looking at the old one (which, by the way, is working fine with 120+ volt solar inverter power right now), I feel good about making that main breaker replacement for the future. Can do no harm. LOAD Test To your "AS he tracks the voltage back at different location while under load Im sure he will find the problem where voltage drop is taking place grrrrrrrrrr lol." Toward that "tracking," I have just figured out how I can jury-rig a 30-amp female receptacle to the end of the new 30 amp cable I just wired into the WFCO panel. With that receptacle, I can plug in my 30 amp-to-15 amp adapter and run a load test from "Point A" the direct connect wire to the WFCO panel to "Point B" the RV park power pedestal. That's the entire length of everything involved with pedestal power to the RV, except the WFCO power distribution panel. It will be the exact same test as run previously from pedestal to surge protector. The previous load test (photo posted previously) showed only 3.0 volts drop when I turned on the 1500 watt heater. That test distance was only through 3 components -- (1) the surge protector backward through (2) 50 amp to 30 amp dog bone, and to (3) pedestal receptacle (see drawing). So clearly there was/is no load problem in that partial section of the power input line. Tomorrow's "full length" test of every wire, connector, component in the 30 amp power input line will either prove (BAD) there is a problem with something between the surge protector and the WFCO panel, or (GOOD) everything in the entire length of the 30 amp power-in line carries the load with no serious or bothersome voltage loss. If the entire length of all of my components and wiring -- all already tested for voltage and continuity individually -- shows no significant voltage drop, then we finally know it is NOT a problem with any of the 30 amp power input wiring. BACK TO PEDESTAL -- That leaves the mystical problem as caused by the (very old) power pedestal acting badly and doing wonky, mischievous things to make my life miserable? Still possible, but I sure as heck am not opening it up to even look, let alone test inside. OR, WFCO POWER DISTRIBUTION PANEL -- (is this even possible?) Some screwy problem with the WFCO panel, the main 30/15 breaker, or something else in the power panel? As far as I have learned from everything posted here, there really are not any other possible causes . . . it has to be RV park pedestal, wiring to the WFCO power panel, or (maybe?) the WFCO panel itself? There is nothing else in existence to blame (pending tomorrow's full-length load test). I'll let you know the results tomorrow. I'm very eager see what happens. Thank you, ALL, once again ! ! ! The value of your knowledge and gracious assistance cannot be overstated. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! Jim (jesfl45)

Good afternoon, all, The mystery problem -- no 120 VAC power from pedestal into the WFCO distribution panel connections for outlets, appliances, etc. -- still exists. Solar system 120 VAC inverter power works fine through the WFCO panel. I am very hopeful this drawing might take the discussion in this post a step forward. Mostly because of the photos and the cumbersome posting process, it has taken all day, so far, to complete. And, there are many photos I chose not to post, for now. This is my simplistic drawing of the 120 VAC power input wiring and components, NOT a wiring diagram: Drawing Details: (1) RV Park Pedestal -- 50 amp only. old, many potential problems, no breaker, clearly not “code,” but RV park is city-owned. City was supposed to repair a nearby 30 amp pedestal 2 months ago. Not happening. Nearest 4-outlet pedestal has home-type dryer (?) plugs as 30 amp outputs and the very, very dark ages 3”x 3” manually pull-out box-type breakers (the type with two fuses on the back of the pull out connection). Only 1 of four outlets works at that pedestal. Test results previously provided. Pix: 50 amp pedestal. (2) 50 Amp To 30 Amp Dog Bone Connector -- Brand new, replaced this morning at 8:10 am, never previously used, packaging in tact when opened. I feared my cleaning, bending prongs, etc. of previous dog bone might have damaged that plug. Taking no (even remote) chances. Pix: 50 amp to 30 amp dog bone connector (new) (3) Progressive Industries, Inc. 30 Amp Portable Surge Protector -- It is operating properly. As a double check, I called the company to discuss. Load test results previously provided plugged into the surge protector. One pix posted, other documentation pix available. There was only a 3.0 volt power reduction under load of a 1500 watt heater. Pix: Progressive surge protector, proper “test lights” lights on. (4) Main RV 120 VAC Power Cord -- Was 25 feet new, now probably 20 feet because I cut off 2+ feet on both ends to assure no wire damage from previous RV twist-lock plug overheating. New high-quality 30 amp plug on one end and the SmartPlug (female) Input connector on the other. Rewired 2 times on 30 amp plug end and 3 times on SmartPlug end . . . just checking myself and assuring 100% everything was perfect. Previous continuity tests of the power cable wires with new connectors at both ends = 0.00. Pix: Power cord SmartPlug connection rear of RV. (5) SmartPlug 30 Amp -- This new connector far superior to two previous RV twist lock connectors. Can even see that prongs actually fully connect in SmartPlug, unlike twist-lock plugs where female connector only touches 1/2 of male plug. Twist-lock plugs, I learned the hard way, are made to overheat. SmartPlug specs online. Pix: Inside SmartPlug connection before permanent installation in rear of RV (difficult to photograph when installed. (6) Temporary Test Cable -- Wired around Coachmen’s old 10/2+G Romex wire (orange casing) that ran through the floor, not visible, because of worry about state of that old wire. Made an 8-foot length temp cable for use from SmartPlug power-in location to WFCO panel. Why? Two reasons: (a) eliminates one other possible problem (old in-floor wiring); and (b) makes it easier to connect to the WFCO power panel when switching between power input sources -- solar system inverter power and 120V AC RV park pedestal power. Power Pedestal 120 Volts Direct Connection Pix: Temporary cable directly connected/hard-wired to WFCO distribution panel via temporary twist-on wire connectors. Power is on through pedestal to and through temp cable and to the main 30 amp breaker. Voltage reading of 120+ volts was true at rear of WFCO panel and also in front with probes to the main 30 amp breaker. Yet, no sub-breakers working. Solar System Inverter 120 Volts Direct Connection Pix: Solar system inverter power directly connected/hard-wired to WFCO power panel via (grey) 10/2+G heavy-duty outdoor Romex wire (approx 25’) from solar system in front of RV to WFCO power panel near RV rear. Continues to work properly as it has for weeks. Note: The small open linoleum space below wire connections is where the old transfer switch was installed before removal and trashing. Temporary Process (For Testing) To Connect/Disconnect Different Power Sources; 4 Easy Steps: (1) Disconnect 120 VAC power cable from pedestal; disconnect 12 volt system with master switch at batteries. (2) Unscrew connectors from three (3) wire connections: black, white, and green. (3) Connect alternate power source cable and connect 2-each of 6 wire ends by color -- black, white and green -- to each other using screw-on wire connectors. (4) Turn on 12-volt master switch at batteries; plug in 120 volt power cable to RV park power pedestal. As I have said many times, NOTHING else is connected in any way, period. For good testing (not necessarily electrical), I was taught one goes through a process of elimination. I purposely eliminated EVERYTHING (temporarily)! But, the Mystery Problem still exists. Beyond my continuing worry about the old pedestal, I also now am wondering about the WFCO panel breakers? I did the only possible (for me) test of each sub-breaker. It was not a “load test” because there’s no way to “load” circuits with no power, that I know of. The results were slightly curious to me, however. It’s a subject for different focus at another time. Thanks for any new ideas about how to solve my continuing mystery problem. It would be nice to have my pedestal power back, especially on days like today at 88 degrees outside. Jim (jesfl45)

Good morning Kirk, John T and others, Power Pedestal Focus: Kirk, the three reasons the power pedestal is still on my radar as the source of the mystery no-shore-power problem are: (1) I am not at the RV, still with family, and can’t do other testing giving me (perhaps unnecessary) time to worry; (2) the neighbor who stopped by and advised “. . . others had problems with that pedestal and finally moved to another site . . .”; and (3) the very old (city-owned/run) RV park that has many visible non-code power pedestal receptacles, like dryer/range-type receptacles at 30 amp locations (the reason I must use a 50 amp connection), no pedestal breakers (instead old 3”x3” pull-out “fuse blocks,” whatever those dinosaurs were called), also with the old-style lightbulb-screw-type 30 amp fuses in the pedestals, but no breaker or fuse whatsoever in the pedestal I must use. Ridiculous is the only word that comes to mind. Pedestal Connection: John T, yes, huge warning signs for bad pedestal wiring potential. Therefore, my novice mind wonders if it could be some oddity (not a normal electrical thing) inside the pedestal wiring that only strikes in the dark of night when not testing. There are certainly many chances for and higher odds of that at the RV park, per #3 above. Dog Bone: I do not believe it is a bad dog bone. It is my practice when about to connect to a new pedestal at an RV park to spray the plug connector to the pedestal with Deoxit before ever inserting it the first time (after pedestal testing, when tests are OK, of course.) If it is a really old pedestal receptacle like now, I typically plug in/out several times to try to assure better contact. At the RV park, I have now done that dozens of times during this mystery-solving quest. I have cleaned the used-only-2-times-in-3-year plug prongs with emery cloth. I also followed the advice in another comment here and “slightly” bent in/out twisted the 50/30 dog bone prongs different ways, with no change in result. Finally, I asked the RV park for a 50/30 dog bone to test. It was old, too, so the test was really questionable, I understand. But, NO change in result. This past Monday while away from the RV, I feared my prong-bending may have caused damage to my 50/30 dog bone, so I ordered a replacement that should be at the RV park when I return. The dog bone issue will be resolved. Receptacle State: The dog bone plug pushes in very tightly, even with all of my Deoxit in/out cleaning efforts. It is hard to plug in and hard to pull out. Normally, that would be good. On the pedestal to which I connect, as I’ve said before, there is no breaker (or any other dark ages power termination method). Wiring: If it is a loose wiring connection, it is inside the old pedestal. I stand by my total of 4 wiring connections involved pedestal to power distribution panel. RV Park Problems: Since RV park wiring problems ARE highly possible (perhaps probable), given (2) and (3) above. I don’t know how to test for that and am not about to try because any amateur effort from me would undoubtedly be a death sentence. Neither my style, nor the results desire. “Valid test” of the pedestal receptacle? What would make it NOT a valid test? Either I get a voltage reading on my (new) multimeter, or not. I read the numbers. I report the numbers off the digital screen. HOWEVER, there have been occasions amidst my many tests when I’ve had some difficulty getting a reading on a multimeter probe without trying several times and jiggling the probe a bit into the pedestal receptacle. Until this moment, that seemed normal and not a big cause for concern. Should it be? And, then, to the non-pedestal comments: Breaker LOAD Test: I’ve said this can’t be done because the sub-breakers won’t turn on even though I read 120+ volts at the 30 amp input connection behind the WFCO panel. I also read 120+ volts (via probes) at the input connection to the 30 amp main breaker in the front of the panel. BUT MAYBE I MISSED YOUR POINT? Are you saying it does not matter . . . test each breaker with load anyway . . . even if they don’t/won’t pass through power? If yes, I don’t really understand the theory (please do not explain, it will be over my head). But I will do the testing if you think there will be helpful data from those tests. However, a little further explanation is required, please. I don’t know how to do what you suggest? (a) At the WFCO panel input, it is easy enough to connect the multimeter probes inside the twist-on wire connectors at my hardwired main connection into the WFCO panel. I’ve done that and tested load(s) with the solar inverter as the power source. (b) And maybe this is obvious to a pro, yet I’m drawing a big blank about how to test at the pedestal, as you suggest, exactly? With the dog bone plugged into the 50 amp receptacle, I see no place to test. Are you suggesting I do something like pull out the dog bone plug slightly and stick multimeter probes in beside (or alligator clip to) the 1/8” or so of exposed plug prongs for such a test? To me that both dangerous and very scary. Another Relevant (?) Part Replacement: One curiosity that has been haunting me, and knowledge-seeking question I now pose is this. I have guessed/wondered previously about whether a breaker, especially my main 30 amp WFCO panel breaker, could be bad or otherwise not fully functioning. If I “load test” the main 30 amp breaker and it shows a problem (dramatically decreased voltage), is that likely the problem all along? To that end, in addition to the new dog bone I ordered, I also decided to order a new main breaker for my WFCO power distribution panel. The 19-year-old one is a Cutler-Hammer HACR Type 2-pole 30amp/15amp breaker, BD3015/A3015 ($50, also ridiculous). The replacement main breaker is on the way, arrival next week. WHY? Because I have always understood and accepted that in testing (not just electrical) is best served by eliminating all possible problematic elements. While off the subject of the power pedestal, I have amateur suspicion the main breaker might be a problem? A test with a replacement will tell. If the old breaker is still good, the new one is returnable. Your load test of breakers, John T, probably will achieve the same end as replacing the breaker as a test. But, I did not and still do not exactly understand how to do that breaker load test at the pedestal. Wrong Assumption: John T, I accept that you are a master “doubting-Thomas,” and in electrical testing that is an obvious virtue and important skill. I also accept that I will never be able to “prove” tests, etc. to the point of your acceptance until you can actually be on site and hands-on-test yourself, directly. That ain’t gonna’ happen. BUT, FYI, you are 100% wrong about one of your assumptions: “So does the Inverter and shore power system feed the same exact place, the main panels input ??? I tend to think NOT, so here's yet one more unknown mystery or something thats bad .” It is by design a perfectly straight-through flow of electricity from the power pedestal ending with a hard-wired connection from a 10/3 cable (power) to a 10/3 cable connection into the WFCO panel. Early-on, I wondered if the 18-year-old 10/2+g orange Romex through the floor where I couldn’t see it was suspect. So, I wired completely around it for testing. I cut a 7’-8’ foot length of an old power cable and connected it from the SmartPlug directly to the WFCO panel. First, admittedly, that was through the transfer switch. Now, for two weeks since the transfer switch has been in the trash, that is DIRECTLY via twist-on wire connectors to the WFCO panel. This test cable is gaffer-taped to across my RV floor during all my testing. When using shore power, that wire is hard-wired (twist-on wire connectors) to the WFCO panel. When using inverter power, the 10/3 (orange) Romex I ran from the solar system inverter is hard-wired directly to the WFCO panel. Only one power source can be/is connected at a time. Period. Please eliminate this hard-wired connection as problematic in your thinking. John T, what I’m looking for are other obscure, rare, or "not likely, but . . . " possible issues that might be causing this mystery problem, not the things I have tested ad infinitum, whether you accept those as fact or not. I understand that you don’t. I understand why, and as I said, that’s not all bad. But, I do think it is counterproductive at this point to go in circles and say the same things repeatedly, facts-accepted-by-you-or-not. What else is there? If there are absolutely no possible problem causes other than the wiring, connections, etc. previously visited and re- re- revisited herein (even if theoretical), please tell me that. I’m nearing the end of my capacity to chase my tail. So, I eagerly await your direction on exactly how to test load at the power pedestal connection with the 50 amp dog bone plugged in? I also am hopeful you will suggest any other specific tests -- not completed multiple times previously -- in some priority order that I can soon undertake. I should be back at the RV tomorrow and able to do additional testing. Once again, thank you sooooo much. I have been receiving an incredibly valuable electrical education through your questioning and comments. I will value that forever ! ! ! Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU, to all, again and again. I am indebted forever. Jim (jesfl45)

Good morning, John T and all others connected here, I won’t be back to my RV until Thursday. I cannot complete further tests until Friday, 25Feb22, at the earliest. However, while showing my family RV photos yesterday, I accidentally found numerous pix of previous tests of the power pedestal 50 amp receptacle. Therefore, may I ask that for this moment the "mystery problem-solving" focus be only on the pedestal power and not other connections or other parts of my 120 volt system. Here is the data I found from the phone photos. Pedestal 50 amp receptacle test readings: -- common to Hot1 (left) = 121.6v -- common to Hot2 (right) = 122.7v -- ground to Hot1 (left) = 121.2v -- ground to Hot2 (right) = 123.3v -- ground to common = 0.126v -- Hot1 (left) to Hot2 (right) = 244v (no decimals shown on multimeter photo) These test readings are undeviating from many other tests I made of the pedestal, even some using old and borrowed multimeters. Consistently, nothing is out of the ordinary or worrisome, as far as my knowledge and my online research for “correct” 50 amp voltage readings go. So, may I ask: IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE -- EVEN VERY OBSCURE OR RARE -- THAT MIGHT CAUSE THE PEDESTAL TO BE THE POWER PROBLEM even when all test readings are within range (as above)? If yes, how do I test for whatever that electrical oddity might be? If there is absolutely no possible obscure electrical issue that might possibly cause a problem, I will not ask again. But, unless I missed it or didn't understand the point, there is as yet no mention or response to this question/issue? Yes, I have well-learned that the ability of the pedestal to carry a heavy power load is one possible problem. I am not discounting that concept. To the contrary, I've tested that and the photo of the test is above in this thread. I could test 10 more times and get unchanging results, I believe. For quick reference, I tested PEDESTAL POWER LOAD CAPABILITY with 750 watt and 1500 watt direct loads. The result was only 3.0 volts power reduction at 1500 watt load. (Note: This test was from the power pedestal through a 50amp-to 30amp dog bone and then a fully functioning Progressive Industries surge protector . . . because that is the only way I could figure out how to do it. That is a total distance electrically from the pedestal connection to the load (an electric heater) and the multimeter test connections of 2.5 feet.) I look forward to any thoughts about any possible rare or odd power pedestal problem possibilities. Thank you very, very much to everyone for your continuing suggestions and assistance. Jim (jesfl45) _____________________ P.S. The following is different information and not directly the core “power pedestal-only focus” requested above. Please do not respond to the facts below as that will only confuse the focus. However, I feel the information below is relevant for perspective when considering the possible pedestal power issues. (1) Friday, I will test the the loading capability of the power at the point of entry connection to the WFCO power distribution panel. I now understand how I can do that by making a different adapter cable. I will relay those results as soon as available. This essentially tests the load capability of the incoming power connections from the surge protector (where previously load test was made), through the new SmartPlug connection to the RV, and then to the rear/main 30 amp connection to the power panel. I expect, again, a minimal 1500 watt load loss of about 3.0 watts. (2) I cannot test alternately as suggested -- by turning on the main breaker and then one-by-one turning on secondary breakers and measuring line load change/decline at every connection -- because none of the secondary breakers have any power. As I have indicated previously, I can multimeter-read 120+ volts in 2 places WFCO panel-related: (a) behind the panel at the main 30 amp power connection, and (b) in the front of the panel measuring with the positive probe on the incoming wire connection at the 30 amp breaker with the breaker turned both off and on. The multimeter reading is 120+ volts at both back and front locations. With the main 30 amp breaker on, however, there is NO POWER to any of the sub-breakers, when turned on/off one-by-one. This is consistent and tested many, many times even going back to the point when the power was still connected through the old transfer switch. Same result. No power in sub-breakers. (Transfer switch now completely removed from 120 VAC system and trashed, a memory only.) I have previously asked why/how this is possible. PLEASE DO NOT ADDRESS THIS POINT/QUESTION IN THIS POST. It is a different subject for a response in a different post. It will only confuse the power pedestal focus. Thank you, thank you to all, once again. Jim (jesfl45)

Gentlemen, Again, many thanks for your efforts. I just skimmed all of the latest posts, but I am not otherwise available today (with family). I cannot do other tests until Wednesday when back at my RV. Two quick thoughts: -- It is getting increasingly difficult to connect every reference made to the same exact point, because of the length and the drifts/dodges (right, left, backwards) of all the comments. -- I have completed dozens and dozens of the tests you suggested. While, I wrote words explaining the results of many, I recognize I have not properly listed all of the exact tests and the results data (because of the time required). I will list all of the testing data before going further. Will it be useful for me to start a completely new thread with: (a) a brief statement of the problem (without the now irrelevant early in-this-post information that seems to now confuse the subject), and (b) the point-by-point/connection-by-connection testing data listed at the top? If yes, I will do so first thing Wednesday when back at my RV. I sincerely appreciate your time and wise thoughts. Jim (jesfl45)

I have some time this morning before family obligations, for the day. I thought I would post with the hope of another idea to solve my mystery problem. Once again, up front, I want to say how much I truly appreciate everyone’s ideas and suggestions. They have been immensely helpful in narrowing the possibilities of my very frustrating electrical problem. Also, I know I haven’t answered each individual query. That's discourteous. My apology. There’s just been toooooo much. Toward that end, I’m trying the summary below to catch up somewhat. (Note: I have, and would send, photos of everything mentioned herein and elsewhere if not for the unfortunate and discouraging-to-good-communication multi-stage photo-posting process required for this forum. John T., I appreciate your direction to the conversion link website. I tested. At my throttled 5mb/s cell internet speed, it takes 30-50 seconds for just one of my hi-res cell phone pix to load and convert. Overall, a minimum of 2 minutes each, often more, to complete a posting of each image. Sending all of the photo documentation I have of the points below = about 20 images to convert and post = 40 minutes to one hour of time. That’s just not happening. One or two critical images, maybe. Too many questions asked to provide photo “proof” for all answers.) For anyone joining this post recently, the (still-a-mystery) problem is: (a) Overheated twist-lock 30 amp power cord receptacle at rear of RV. Note: Everything was working fine prior to overheating likely caused by my absent-mindedly leaving hot water heater on when air conditioning kicked on while also running TV, computer, lights, etc. How many amps is that? Oops. (b) Replaced with high quality 30 amp SmartPlug. (c) Power pedestal power would no longer work, even though voltage into main 30 amp breaker on WFCO power distribution panel was 122.5 volts. Tested many times hard-wired directly to power panel main breaker. (d) However, solar system 3000 watt inverter power works perfectly when similarly hard-wired to main 30 amp breaker (after disconnecting pedestal power). Loaded by running 1500 watt microwave, no problem on solar system power. Now, a few qualifying information bits as reminders: -- The (once-discussed) transfer switch is physically in the trash out of the RV. It is not a factor in anything. -- I am 100% confident all wiring connections are connect (and I have photos, except for the huge barrier noted above). -- Absolutely nothing but one power source at a time is hard-wired to the power panel for my testing -- either the power pedestal power or my solar system inverter power. -- the generator has been completely disconnected (awaiting service) since I removed the transfer switch. It is not a factor whatsoever. -- I have tested every connection many times. Both voltage and continuity tests are perfect on every part of the power pedestal connections -- dog bone, power cord, 30 amp receptacle at RV rear, original in-floor wiring from power receptacle to power panel (plus a directly connected, temporary 10/3 “test cable” which is just easier to hard-wire on/off when I change power sources for testing.) -- Progressive Industries portable surge protector after the pedestal works fine. Proper blue/green lights on. I have tested the pedestal power connection with and without it. No difference. Contacted the company last week. They assure me it is perfect. But, one thing I HAVE NOT TESTED is each separate section of the power pedestal connection system WITH LOAD. Since I have tested voltage and continuity on each section (all perfect), I expect no issue. However, I have figured out how to do a section-by-section load test and I will do so when I am back at my RV. That will satisfy my curiosity and any other questions. So, from the last of the posts on this forum backward: -- No SquareD Surgebreaker in my power distribution panel. Never seen one before. -- I cannot “get plugged into a good pedestal” easily, without a major move of the RV. Once, I was ready to do that. BUT, now, it makes no sense to me to go through the hassle of moving the RV for the same exact result . . . since the load test on the pedestal power showed no voltage drop? If the power pedestal tests good under load, why would a different pedestal make any difference at all? To be clear, there is no good power pedestal reachable with my 50’ of 30 amp power cord extensions plus about 20’ remaining of my main power cord (after I cut off several feet at both ends of the main cord to assure sure there was no overheated wire remaining before installing new plug/ receptacle). That’s a total of about 70’ of power cord available. (Buying 3-4 more 25’ extensions to reach the closest “good” power pedestal is not in the cards. -- I do understand that because I am using a dog bone I am testing only one leg of the power pedestal under load. Previously, I multi-meter tested the 50 amp power pedestal receptacle and it tested perfectly on both left/right legs and the main leg. But, why does it matter, since whichever single 30 amp leg works perfectly with no voltage loss when loaded with a direct 1500 watt load through the 50/30 dog bone? Trying to learn something new here. -- I do not believe the voltage drops at the main distribution panel under load. BUT, I realize it is not tested. Upon considering that, I suppose it is possible? SO, I have figured a way to test with a 1500 watt load immediately BEFORE the hard-wired connection to the main breaker. I will do so. However, I do not know how to test with a load AFTER the main 30 amp breaker when hard-wired because there is no power when any of the secondary circuit breakers are turned on? Suggestions? REMINDER (Re: WFCO Power Distribution Panel) (1) Secondary breakers do not receive power from power pedestal source when main 30 amp breaker is on, even though 123-123 volts is shown on line going into the 30 amp main breaker at the hard-wired connection in back of the breaker and at the connection terminals on the front of the power panel at the breaker directly. (2) BUT, all secondary breakers and circuits work perfectly when hard-wired to my solar system inverter, always showing 123-124 volts on my wall outlet voltage meter. High-load microwave (1500w) microwave works fine. If the main 30 amp power distribution panel breaker was bad, why would it work fine with the solar system inverter power? Ergo, these questions seem relevant: -- Is there somehow a strange difference in the power from the (very old) power pedestal vs. the (clean?) power from my solar system inverter that causes inverter power to work and pedestal power to fail? -- Can a breaker switch somehow be nearing failure so it would allow one power source (solar inverter) to work perfectly while another source (pedestal) would not? -- Is there some other connection in the WFCO panel that could be causing this problem? If so, how do I check? -- Is there any other rare electrical anomaly that could cause this works-one-way-but-not-the-other problem? Later this week, when I’m back at the RV full time, I’ll replace the 50/30 dog bone and all the power cords from the pedestal to the power distribution panel. Although, I believe that will prove to be a complete waste of my time and money. OK, I’ve run out of steam and time for this morning. I must continue my work further backward on questions and comments at another time. Again, thank you to all. I am still hopeful someone will think of or know some odd or tricky little thing that is the cause of my no pedestal power mystery? Jim (jesfl45)

IT AIN'T THAT! (The pedestal loading issue.) Pix below of a quick load test just after the surge protector. Load does nothing abnormal. I am deflated. Family is in town, who I only get to see every two years. So, I'll be mostly unavailable until mid-week next. Keep in mind that everything is completely disconnected when I test. I have been wiring the main power source wire directly to the WFCO main breaker connected wire-to-wire with heavy duty twist nuts. If AC is connected, solar inverter is completely disconnected, and vice versa. I'm having my Onan 3600 kw genset serviced next week and I will fire it up and test the genset power through the main breaker panel. Through all this, it has been completely disconnected . . .as is pedestal power right now as I use my solar inverter power. As soon as I can, I'll make the list of all the voltage and continuity readings I've taken at every connection through the wiring. But, they were all perfect, so I don't get. Thank you again for everyone's comments and suggestions. I need to stand back and enjoy some family time . . . and clear my (frustrated) mind from all of the mystery electrical power problems. Jim (jesfl45) P.S. Guess I can't send but one pix at a time in this limited system. I reduced the three to 17% of original size and saved at low resolution. No time to go back through that Photoshop process again. Sorry. FYI, normally the pedestal shows 122-123V when I check, but 87 degrees right now and many people in the RV park are running their AC. The no load reading was 118.9 volts.

Good morning every one of you wonderful forum participants here . . . . . . again, I must say how grateful I am! I was unavailable yesterday because of a family matter, and that again will be the case until later today or tomorrow (Thursday) morning. I cannot get back to the details of all your recent forum comments until later. However, quickly, I do want to provide some additional information. Importantly (I believe), I have tested and tested and tested, ad infinitum. I have photos and reading for every voltage and continuity test I have completed. I CAN compile those 20+ photos and digital multimeter readings shown in the photos. But, honestly, at this moment, that seems like a waste of my time. In summary: (1) I have tested voltage at every single connection from the power pedestal to the breaker connection in my RV's WFCO power panel. Every single wire and or receptacle a steady 122v to 123v. I know the main 30 amp breaker is working properly, because it is on at this moment as I use my solar inverter power (through the power panel). I read 123.7 volts at the power panel and 124 volts (no decimals available) on my little plug-into-an-outlet voltage meter. All is well on voltage from my solar inverter. Similarly, in my voltage tests of the 120 volt power (not connected at all with my solar inverter power system), I read 122.? to 123.? volts. with minior deviations. (2) I also ran continuity checks end-to-end on every cable and wire from the RV park power pedestal to my interior WFCO power distribution panel. (And, a few other non-120v wires, too, while I was thinking about it.) every single cable/wire tested 0.00 (+/- 0.01-0.02). As an afterthought, however, I awakened in the middle of the night last night wondering whether or not I should have tested continuity from the 50A-30A dogbone through the end of the temporary cable I am using that is directly connected to the power distribution panel. (I can drag the pedestal plug end inside the RV to the power panel.) That test result would be through all connections. Theoretically, I assume that continuity reading will also be the 0.00 (+/-) as with the cables, but . . . ? (I have tested voltage on that part of my connection, and it is 122-123 volts.) If a continuity test of the entire connection length tests bad, that COULD (?) be the problem? My guess, however, is that continuity will be perfect with that reading, too. Now a quick question. I subscribe to diagnosis that "the load is the problem" at this moment. As suggested in comments, I want to test the power pedestal WITH A LOAD. However, at my level of knowledge, I don't know how to do that test? Someone may already have answered my "load" question. If so, I missed it in my quick skim a short while ago. Shore power will not come on inside the RV when I turn on the main 30 amp breaker in my power distribution panel. Ergo, I can't turn on or plug anything to "load" the power supply and run that test? I would have to directly connect something to load the power pedestal voltage as the test. So: (a) I don't really know how to do that, and/or, (b) my cautionary instinct screams "stop, that may be dangerous!" My only novice idea is to use the 50-amp to 30 amp dogbone; then plug that into a 30 amp to 15amp dogbone or adapter; and then plug something like my (inexpensive, easy to replace) heat gun into the 15 amp AC plug? I am assuming my (new) clamp-type multimeter will/should be able to measure the flow through both the 50a-30a and 30a-15a dogbones? It's the only way I can figure how to "load" the power with a plug in the single 50 amp power pedestal connection. Am I correct? Will that work? Will it reveal whether the power pedestal wiring just can't/won't take a load? If yes, I will do that as soon as I return when daylight work time is available. I must now leave for the morning. I'll hope to get back to my power mystery tomorrow morning. Again, thank you to everyone for all of your helpful thoughts. Jim (jesfl45)

Vern, Thank you for the ideas. I get that the problem might be something that just hasn't "completely" failed yet. And, my focus for that remains the (very old) 50 amp power pedestal to which I have been connected. That's because, I just just checked continuity on all of my power supply cables and all is well there with both the dogbone (50 amp-30 amp) and my pedestal to RV power cord. But, just to be safe I took the new SmartPlug female half off my power cable, cut another foot off the power cable, and rewired the plug. Someone mentioned the heat from the previous failure might have caused an issue, AND I wanted to quadruple check my own wiring for the new plug. I'm confident it is not the power cables. To your specific question, my shore power connects to my WFCO power panel through about a 8'-9' length of 10/3 wire covered with a protective plastic housing (original Coachmen construction) from the rear of the RV (at my new SmartPlug) through the floor to the power panel. So, a pretty short run and a very direct connection. I have checked continuity of that wire and it is fine. When I started my solar installation with LiFePO4 batteries 2 years ago, I replaced the then existing WFCO converter/charger that was built into the power panel with a new Progressive lithium-only converter/charger. I mention that again, because I also added a breaker to my power panel specifically for the lithium converter/charger. In nearly two years, I have never used that new $250 lithium converter/charger, so it was a waste of my money unless I rationalize that it is "insurance" in case of a solar system failure. I only turn it on occasionally to test when I exercise my genset, which I also seldom use. The solar charge controller and the 3000 watt inverter in that system is in the front of my RV. It is a completely isolated system. Shore power does not connect to the solar system at all. Solar inverter power runs to the power panel through a 30 amp switch, which I am replacing with a better solution (previous comment). I've already removed my 16-year-old (?) automatic transfer switch. It will be in Thursday's trash. As far as I'm concerned, it's pretty useless and just another mechanical device that can fail. At very least, it is in the way in my limited cabinet space for which there are much better uses. I surely wish I could plug into another nearby power pedestal with an extension cord. But, the only other pedestal within 50 feet has only one working 50 amp connection which is in use by another RV'er. Now, get this: the 30 amp connection on that pedestal has a "home dryer-type" female plug in it, not even a 30 amp RV connector. The next closest pedestal is 150 feet, or so, away. That dryer plug should have been a very big red flag for me when I got here a couple of months ago, but this spot was the only place I could find on short notice back then. I guess I could make myself a little dryer-plug to RV 30 amp plug dogbone? Naw, not worth the trouble. Thanks again. Any other thoughts are certainly welcome. Jim (jesfl45)

Good morning, again. (Much earlier today than planned.) And, Vern, thanks you. I just saw your additional comments. I've completed the first round of testing from the 50 amp pedestal connection to my power panel. The readings at every connection point are 123.5 volts (+/-) with a very slight variance . . . and that includes the main 30 amp breaker at my power panel. I did get a slight variation with readings of 122.5v to 122.9v at the power panel, too. However, there is no 120 volt power to anything in the RV when any or all of the remainder of the 15/20 amp circuits are turned on. So, power in. No power out. I now suspect, as suggested above, the problem is the load thing . . . that "with a load" there is inadequate power because of a problem in/at the power pedestal. Why is that my focus and hypothesis, you ask? While testing the pedestal this morning, a permanent resident neighbor at this RV park stopped by and said "you should just move, others have had to move because they had problems with that power outlet, too." He went on to say he was very surprised that they even put me in the RV space because of the past problems. Of course, I agreed with him. And, offered a big thank you. And then thought to myself, 'wow, that's pretty darned telling . . . '. ) So, I'm betting that if I moved to another lot here at the RV park the shore power problem would go away. But, since I'm only going to be here another 2 weeks, I'd rather not go through the hassle of moving since I'm well set up in this lot. Even so, I'd still like to diagnose the problem more precisely as a learning experience. I'd also like to be 100% positive about the answer to "why" my solar inverter 123v output runs all my RV AC power outlets and appliances . . . when the shore power 120v AC will not? At this moment, my assumption is that happens because my solar inverter handles a load -- including my 1500 watt microwave and the 1500 watt heat gun I used yesterday, etc., etc. . . . all with no hiccups. But the 120v shore power will not handle any load because of the pedestal problem? And, I'd like to understand why the shore power here worked fine for 2-1/2 months before I overheated the shore power plug with my AC, hot water, etc., etc. all turned on at the same time? And, of course, why doesn't/won't it work now with the same exact wring setup, but a higher quality shore power connection? BUT, let's start with STEP 1 before tackling other questions. So, how do I add a "load" to check -- as was suggested above -- when none of the appliances or outlets in my RV are "live" even though there is 123v of power at the main/incoming 30 amp breaker? Alternately, is there another way to prove/demonstrate the problem with the 50 amp pedestal outlet? Suggestions? Thank you one and all, once again. Jim (jesfl45) P.S. An afterthought from a previous question above. No, 120v shore power does not run through my solar system or the solar inverter in any way. The solar system is completely isolated. Shore power is direct to my power panel. The generator is also isolated, because after I set up the first part of my solar system, my then single LiFePO4 (200 Ah) battery had trouble "cranking" my genset if it was not fully charged and/or getting additional solar panel current. So I kept my 2 previous AGM batteries and wired those to the genset for starting only (or non LiFePO4 power) in an emergency. Two years ago when I started installing solar, I removed the 18-year-old WFCO converter/charger in the WFCO power panel and replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics, Inc. lithium converter/charger. I have only charged my lithium batteries through that converter 4 times when running the genset as occasional tests (after I turn off the separate system isolation breaker I installed right at the solar system, of course).

Kirk, John T, Darryl&Rita, et.al., Again and again, thank you all so much. John T, Darryl&Rita: Yesterday afternoon -- after 6 hours of morning electrical frustration -- as I was skimming the messages in this forum, I didn't even see your additional names on responses. I apologize for not noticing. At that point in my day, I was at my mental max. This morning, I'm again trying to absorb, but I'm kinda' in the zone of "waaaaay too much information." I’m about to start reading through all of your comments again and testing everything, as you suggest. You are wise to understand that my electrical knowledge is limited, generally just enough to get by, most times. Uncommon issues are my nemesis/downfall. During the past two years of my RV travels I have found myself constantly asking myself the question: "Why do I need to know (or do) that; and/or why do I care?" I am always trying to simplify and eliminate, which fits my elderly brain much better. To wit: (Automatic) Transfer switch: IT IS GONE!!! It is completely out of the picture. Please forget about it. I don't want one. I don't need one. In my testing yesterday (Sunday) morning, I wired around it. Then I realized my first solution of wiring both the genset and the solar inverter through an A-B switch (marine battery-type) into the transfer switch was a classic "Rube Goldberg" mess. Solution: This morning I ordered: I lived on a boat for a couple of years and had a similar switch, I remembered. It was perfect then and it will be a much better solution for my RV since I seldom will use anything other than my solar system’s inverter, probably 90% of the time. The genset and shore power are emergency-only elements of my system. I am beginning again the re-testing of everything . . . I dunno’, probably the 5th or 6th time around. By the way, I previously found the NRVTA “Todd Tech Tip” video about testing the pedestal connections early last week during my current electrical odyssey. But, I’m gonna’ watch it again now just to check myself and be sure I didn’t misunderstand something . . . before I start the testing again. Also, until Saturday, I was using my deceased father’s basic 30+-year-old (?) analog multimeter (needle scale type). I now have my new higher-quality clamp-type multimeter. Much better. I’ll let you know all of the data I collect later, most likely tonight. Thanks to all, once again. Jim (jesfl45)

Kirk: First, I owe you an apology because I failed -- in my exhausted state last night -- to say thank you for your gracious welcome to this forum. I’m fairly new to Escapees, now nearing 2 years. I’ve met numerous Escapees members around the country who have been extraordinarily helpful. And, I said last night, you’ve gone above and beyond with your time already with your response to my mystery power problem. Second, I didn’t mean for you to spend all of that time spelling out the possibilities. It was my intent do do much more testing per your first message and get back to you after that. What can I ever do to repay you for your extraordinary assistance? It is so very much appreciated. Third, I just read for the first time today’s long analysis/diagnosis message from you. Again, I am overwhelmed with your effort and thoughtfulness. I need to read it another time or two and absorb point-by-point. I will do that again tomorrow morning when I am fresh again. Shortly, I’ll relax and turn my attention to the Superbowl. Here’s the funny thing (or not so funny, from my perspective). I spent more than 6 hours today first testing everything as you suggested in you first message. I made may notes for you as I was going alone. I write a lot to help me think things through thoroughly and to document what I’m doing. I’m not going to go through all of my notes tonight and send them to you. But, here’s the summary: -- all of the testing and tracking had me open the power panel and test all the way through the transfer switch and all of the wiring to the main 30 amp breaker input connection. In every instance, I read 120+ volts at the input to that beaker -- from both the shore power connection and from my solar inverter connection. -- Mysteriously, however, the solar inverter powers the entire RV system just fine. The shore power connection does not power the RV’s electrical system, even though I can read the 120 volts at the 30 amp breaker connection in the power panel. I do not understand that at all. -- With my limited electrical knowledge, the only variable I could figure was the grounding from/in the old power pedestal. But, I do not have enough knowledge to figure how or why that would be the case? The solar system is directly grounded to the RV chassis and completely separate from the 120 volt electrical system until the connection at the A-B switch and then to-and-through the power panel. Interestingly, the built-in 3600 kw Cummins/Onan genset (one reason why I bought this older RV) is also grounded directly to the RV chassis. (Note: no, neither the solar system nor the built-in genset connect through the shore power plug. I re-wired those separately into the transfer switch with an A-B battery-type switch like I used to use on boats in my sailing days. I had an extra one and that was an easy solution. Since I haven’t used the genset since I completed my solar system a couple of months ago, that A-B switch is permanently locked to the “B,” or solar system input.) -- So my conclusion today is that the problem IS likely something in the shore power system, possibly something to do with the grounding (since grounding is the only variable I see)? It is a very, very old pedestal at this very old RV park where I am staying, which is owned and run by the city. I don’t really know how to check the pedestal further (until I read your message from today again and again) in the morning. And, I’m sure not going to unscrew and open the city’s old pedestal box and take a look at the wiring inside. It is a 50 amp ONLY pedestal with NO BREAKER. I do have a surge protector plugged into the 50 amp power source through my 50-30 amp dogbone, and then to my shore power cord. -- As I came to the conclusion the pedestal and grounding therein could very well be the problem (before I read your detailed information), I also realized that IF there is a grounding or other problem in the old pedestal’s wiring, that also likely would have contributed to the overheating and burn-up of the old shore power twist-lock plug. -- My plan, as I sat down this afternoon to write back to you, was to ask about the appropriate tests to find the likely pedestal power problem. However, I am sure you’ve covered that in your previous message, so I’ll reread and absorb your points tomorrow morning and do whatever additional pedestal power testing after daylight tomorrow. Please, please, don’t spend any more of your time until I get through the next steps in my testing. I’ll let you know tomorrow whatever I find. For now, I’m again running just fine from my 700 Ah of LiFePO4 batteries . . .and I’m looking forward to enjoying the game. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I’ll never be able to say that enough. Jim Stiner (jesfl45)

Kirk, Wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I don't have your electrical experience, but I think I've covered almost everything you've mentioned. However, I'm going to go through your helpful message again in the morning when I'm fresh and check everything point-by-point. The most confounding thing to me is that I've got power from my solar system inverter through both sides of the transfer switch. I test-wired both sides with the main solar inverter power cable to check whether the transfer switch was the problem. Inverter power, no problem. Using it right now. Power pedestal power, nothing. Yes, I guess something could have been damaged in the transfer switch from the previous overheating. I assume if something was damaged in the 2006-vintage transfer switch (a fairly simple mechanism, it seems to me) either both -- shore power or inverter power -- or neither would work? So, I'll take your points one-by-one and work through everything again tomorrow. It's a great roadmap for me. I suspect there is something -- probably simple -- I'm missing. And, I'll be able to employ a new, better multimeter I bought late this afternoon. My old multimeter was very basic and very worn. Thank you so very much for your time and helpful thoughts. jesfl45

I have a mystery power problem. And, I really hope someone can offer an idea for a solution. I am at my knowledge's end. My old, now-dead 30-amp "shore power" twist-on plug (on my power cord) overheated (again). I discovered it probably was partly because the connectors on the RV side (female) receptacle actually only make contact with 1/2 (or less) of the plug prongs. Learned my lesson. Ordered and installed a high-quality (expensive, comparatively) power connection (SmartPlug). Good engineering design. High quality. Perfect plug-to-receptacle connections. Yet, for a mysterious reason, after the installation, I am not getting power to my transfer switch and power panel. It was working fine before the old power cord plug overheated. (My mistake was running the AC and the water heater on electricity simultaneously. I know better. I just forgot the water heater was on.) What's especially strange to me is this: (1) My multimeter checks show proper power out of the RV park's shore power pedestal, through my surge protector, to and through the new SmartPlug, and even to the RV connection end of the incoming wire. (I have pix of all the tests and connections, and I am confident they are all correct.) (2) Yet, there is no power through the transfer switch to the 120-volt power panel. I have wired and re-wired several times to check myself. (3) Therefore, thinking it might be a problem with the original through-the-floor 30-amp power line to the transfer switch in my 18-year-old RV (mice, or something), I bypassed the old in-floor wiring with a temporary connection from the power pedestal/SmartPlug directly to the transfer switch. When testing, the power is at the connection point in the transfer switch but not through to the 120-volt power panel. (4) Here's why it is such a mystery to me. As a further test, I disconnected my temporary main power line. Then I connected the main power cable from my 3000W inverter in my solar system to the exact same main power line connection in the transfer switch. Everything works perfectly on inverter power. Right now I am running this computer, TV, lights, charger, outlets, etc. through the transfer switch and power panel with NO PROBLEM whatsoever. Several times, I have disconnected the inverter power line and connected/tested the power pedestal temporary wire. No go. Sorry for the length of this explanation. Thought it might be helpful. I'm no electrical pro, but I do know my way around my system and my multimeter. This is likely some simple or basic problem that just eludes my knowledge level. I certainly will appreciate any diagnosis and suggestions for solving the mystery. (Note: The good news is I've been running off my recently upgraded solar system for a week while dealing with this problem. The solar system is working beyond my expectations in Florida where there is plenty of sunshine right now.) I would like to get the shore power working again, however. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer. It will be very much appreciated. jesfl45