747Flyer

I have one. Thanks.

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I appreciate your post!

I'm confused ( happens a lot, LOL) by your response. You stated that the bags should hold basically forever, but then say that your suspension will hold for 3 or 4 days. Is the latter fairly normal? That's about what mine does. If parked longer without being started, it squats. Should I throw money at it, or again is this about normal for these trucks? Thanks.

I have a 1998 Volvo 610. It is the first and only HDT I have owned. Is there some type of valve that is supposed to prevent the suspension air bags from deflating when the truck's air system leaks down over time? I have been putting a jack stand under the rear frame when I plan to park the truck for a few days, as I simply don't like the way it looks sitting there when it squats after the air system has leaked down. Assuming there is not a leak in the bags themselves, should they remain inflated (check valve??) even when the air system has leaked to zero? My truck has a Trailer Saver hitch installed and the gauge for it indicates that it retains air pressure even when the truck's air system has leaked down - this is what set me to wondering if the suspension air bags should do the same.

Sounds like all is well then. If it ain't broke, don't fix it... Thanks for your post.

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I have a Volvo service bulletin that says that the rod on my truck should be threaded 23mm ( about 29/32") into the clevis and that this adjustment should not be changed....

Thanks for your replies. I failed to explain that I actually had 2 separate clutch issues. I changed the clutch master and slave cylinders and bled the system due to a failure of the slave cylinder. I was sitting at a local traffic light with the clutch pedal to the floor when the clutch engaged and the truck started to go. Fortunately I didn't hit the car in front of me but it was close. The truck did this several more times on my way home. Changing the parts has cured that issue. I also changed the clutch brake about two months ago and it works fine too. The second issue ( or at least I thought it was a problem) is that I feel like the clutch engages too close to the floor when easing up on the pedal. It has been that way since I bought the truck in March. Maybe it's just me. A million miler ex trucker and truck and heavy equipment mechanic was at my place today working on a rental track hoe. I had him start the truck and move it several times and he said that the clutch engagement was fine - just how he liked it to be. So....Maybe I just need to learn to like it....Dunno

1998 Volvo 610 with a Cummins N14 Celect and Eaton Fuller Super 10. Issue is that when getting under way from stopped, the clutch engages and the truck begins moving with the clutch pedal still very close to the floor. Replaced clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. This is the older style vertically mounted slave cylinder. It has a pointer and metal tag mounted near the slave cylinder. The pointer is well within the area marked "normal operating range" on the tag. (The tag also has a section marked " clutch adjustment required.") Adjusted clutch to have 1/2" gap between clutch brake and throw out bearing. Moving the adjustment bolt on the pressure plate with the clutch pedal depressed) both ways a few turns either side of that setting had no effect on the problem. Truck shifts fine and no clutch slippage noted. I have driven vehicles with manual transmissions my entire life, and I hate the feel of this - it doesn't feel right nor seem safe... but is it normal for this truck??

I'm surprised you can even get a new ECM for a 2001. I thought they had to be repaired/ rebuilt. I have a '98 610. I hope things work out well for you.

What is the diagnosis? What parts are required?

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My Volvo 610 has a 10 speed. Every muscle car I ever owned had a manual. To me, shifting is a big part of the fun. It never gets old. I love " putting it through the box." I'm 66 years old. Wife says I'm a dinosaur. I'm in no way disparaging automatics or those that drive them. Resale is probably higher. Just curious though.... are there many like me left??😧

I DID have some problems with my cluster. The fuel gauge had read full since I got the truck and it would not move during a gauge test. The ABS light would not illuminate at key on even though the bulb tested. Ditto with the caution light. Finally, a few weeks ago, the background lights began to flicker and the speedo and tach went ape for a little while. I removed the cluster and took it to Southern Electronics in Richmond, Va. They fixed all of the above issues in 2 days for $371. Has worked perfectly since. You might give them a call. They are experienced with Volvo clusters. Not " Mr. Personality", but seem to do good work. I didn't have any LCD issues, but perhaps they can fix that part as well. I didn't ask them about clearing the diagnostic messages when they had it . Duh...

I like the quote beneath the picture of your rig. A similar thought is " I want to die with memories...not dreams."

Nigel, thanks for posting. I do have the owners manual for my truck. Although it is fairly detailed on the use of the graphic display, it says nothing about deleting the inactive messages. I did look at the owners manual that you provided the link for. It is for a 2001, and is more detailed than the 1998 manual. Sadly, the graphic display on the 2001 is similar to the 1998, but the stalk controls are labeled differently and function slightly differently as well. I appreciate your help. I think it will require a service computer as well as a password input.

Jay, thanks very much for doing this. Unfortunately I've come to the conclusion that a service computer is required on the '98.

I do appreciate the efforts to help. Unfortunately no one yet has been able to tell me SPECIFICALLY how to accomplish this ON A 1998 MODEL. Newer trucks may be slightly different with the labeling of the stalk buttons and/or the prompts given on the display. Newer trucks have a totally different display. I'm aware that I could simply ignore the inactive messages. There are 4 of them, and I want them gone. I'm aware that if this is possible without a diagnostic tool, it will probably be done through the wiper stalk controls. When looking at a diagnostic message, I have tried every combination of stalk control buttons I can think of. ( before asking for help here) None results in clearing of the message or a prompt to do so. On the Volvo Masters forum, a gentleman said it was easy by using the enter button. I don't have an enter button. Beginning to think a 1998 will require a dealer visit/diagnostic tool to delete these messages. Thanks again for your efforts to help!

Thanks for the info Sparky. You're on target. I'm trying to find out if the only options are buy an expensive tool or take the truck to a dealership. The owners manual gives good info about reading the messages, but zero info on deleting them.

I own a 1998 Volvo 610 with an N14 Cummins. How do I clear (remove) inactive diagnostic messages from the graphic display? Thanks.