pjnickles

That's assuming I can get the tank out. Thanks! 🙂

I looked around for schematics, but no luck. All were outdated and empty. Maybe I'll have luck with your link. Thanks! 🙂

Ok. Solved my electrical problem. Now on to problem number two. The same 99 Winnebago Adventurer, 35 ft... I need to remove, and either repair or replace my gray tank. The previous owner must have let a freeze occur, or the tank cracked for some reason. I need to know how many inlets/outlets the tank has, that I'll need to sever, and what holds the tank stationary in the compartment. Tank access is midway on the right side. The galley sink, after the trap, goes directly straight down into the gray tank. I would think that the lavatory and shower attach somewhere/somehow that I can't see or access, unless it's a model where those drains are routed into the black tank. The only drain pipe I can see to the gray tank is the one from the galley sink, and the other end (in the compartment where it attaches to the "Y" pipe at the main drain), I would assume it attaches to the gray tank as well, but I can't verify that. I can disconnect the gray tank outlet pipe, (assuming it's the drain), at the "Y", via the rubber nipple with the pipe clamps, and figure I'll have to cut the galley sink drain. Those are the only two connections I can see, and as I said, I have no idea how, where, or if the shower and lavatory attach. The tank extends nearly the entire width of the coach, (with no access from the driver's side), and as best as I can see, there's no other attachments holding the tank down or from moving except the galley drain and the main drain. I doubt the down pipe from the galley and the outlet drain end, plus the weight of any contents in the tank, are the sole securements/reason the tank doesn't move. If I remove the rubber nipple and cut the galley drain, will the tank just slide out? Is there something holding the tank down, or from moving around? The access from the right side is about 12" tall, (tank about 9" tall). There's no way I can get in there to detach any other pipes, or any other hold downs/securements that may be retaining the tank, and I'm not really into removing the floor. Short of a repair facility, it's inherent costs, and the loss of usage, (I'm a fulltimer), what can I do? Is there some way to remove the tank, short of the repair facility method, or renting the neighbors skinny 9 year old to climb inside the hole with a Sawsall and help cut the tank out in pieces, lol? Thanks in advance.

Problem solved. Thread closed. Thanks to all. 👍🙂

Thanks all for the advice. Thanks to another, different RV forum, I was able to locate my 120vac to 12vdc power converter. I about tore this place apart and there it was, under the drawer that's under the oven! Two blown 30A fuses. Replaced. All is well. Whew! Safe Travels. 🙂

1999 Winnebago Adventurer, 35ft Class A, Ford V-10, BanksPower, Onan 7kW, Solar Power System, Left Slideout, 3rd coach in 20 years, Fulltimer. So, my start battery died this past winter. I pulled all 3 to load test and charge them, (if need be), about 4 weeks ago. The 2 coach batteries were good. The start battery had/has a bad cell. I finally found the time to reinstall them. One good to the start, the other to the coach, and did so about a week ago. My intent is to replace the third asap, but with the problem I'm having, I'm in no hurry. Anyway, I unfortunately, stupidly, misread the crude schematic drawing I made when I removed the batteries, and cross wired the one coach battery upon reinstallation. I got a spark. I thought it was just a spark because the system was pulling current. I reapplied the connection and then heard a "pop/click" from somewhere inside the coach. The battery box is located in the entry stairwell, so the door was open and I was bent over the batteries. The pop came from inside, (as best my ears could tell), but which direction I'm not sure. Inside is all I can say. At any rate, now, without the coach battery connected, my fridge won't work. I tried plugging it in via extension cord, directly to a known working outlet in the coach...nothing. I ran it straight to the power pole...nothing...THIS, to the power pole, I DON'T UNDERSTAND!!! When I reconnect the coach battery, the fridge works no matter which AC source I use. I take it out, the fridge loses AC. What did I fry? I've checked literally, EVERY fuse and circuit breaker. 110v breaker panel...fine. All DC breakers...fine. Engine compartment fuses...fine. Under dash fuses...fine. I'm thinking converter or automatic transfer switch, though I'm not sure how either of those would have an effect. The transfer switch has nothing to do with DC power, so I don't think it's a factor. My thoughts lie with the converter in that I'm getting (guessing/unconfirmed as of ýet) zero 12vdc out, which in turn isn't powering a relay solenoid somewhere to let AC pass to the fridge, no matter the source AC, which doesn't make sense if I'm plugged in DIRECTLY to the fridge! That said, all of my AC elsewhere works...both TV's, Micro, Toaster Oven, box fan, etc...just NOT the fridge. When I put the coach battery back into the circuit, and plug the fridge in to its normal receptacle, it resumes working. MY AC amperage consumption panel shows a code E1 when the coach battery is disconnected, and the fridge beeps saying no AC. When I reconnect the coach battery, the consumption panel doesn't reset until I reset the main AC power breaker, then the fridge works fine. What I'm not understanding...is that my 12v system AND the fridge were working WITHOUT the coach batteries after I removed them for testing. Now, without them, after my misread schematic disaster, nothing with 12v works unless a battery is in the circuit, which would logically follow, until it comes to the fridge. So, if it's not a lack of a 12v output from the converter to a relay solenoid, that allows 110v to flow, I'm left with the converter itself. I'm thinking blown fuse or blown protection diode, but I can't find the converter. It's not behind the AC circuit panel, under the bed, or in/under ANY of the furniture with room for storage, or in any of the basement storage bins. Do I even have an converter? Wouldn't I need one for 12v? On the inside of my 110v circuit breaker panel, I DO have a small 2" x 6" circuit board on one side, that may or may not be an converter. I'm assuming it's not, because it contains really fine circuitry, (a couple of integrated circuit chips and a transistor), that makes me wonder if it's even capable of handling the DC amperage required by the coach, but I could be wrong. Right now, as a bridge, until I can decide what to do for repairs, or actually repair it, I have a jumpstart pack hooked to the coach battery, and have it plugged in to the AC adaptor to keep the DC flowing to something somewhere, that keeps the AC flowing to the fridge. My thoughts are to buy a real battery charger tomorrow to replace the jumpstart pack. That said, if I'm keeping the DC flowing to a relay solenoid somewhere, wouldn't that rule out a bad solenoid? That said, maybe it IS the converter? That said, where the heck is the converter? Is it that little, delicate circuit board inside my AC circuit breaker box??? I have a solar system, but have no idea if it works, (I bought the coach used), if it's even hooked up, or if it's a factor. I'm not sure what else to add, or how to describe things, or if I'm even making sense. I'm generally a DIY'er, and would appreciate any help, advice, or questions to better understand my gibberish BEFORE I put this thing in a shop somewhere that'll cost me an arm and a leg. Yes, I can afford a repair in a shop, but I'm a cheapskate, lol. If it's something simple like a fuse or a relay solenoid, I'd sooner not pay the $100/hr shop fee and the 150% markup on some $30 part, to find out it's a .69 cent blade fuse. Thanks in advance. Bare with me to return a reply. I work 12-15 hours a day, 6 days a week, and I'm bushed when I get home. I promise I'll get back to someone who's taken the time to help. Pics to follow if needed. PJ