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TD1

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Everything posted by TD1

  1. In my World, Cat diesel tech 25 yrs. Voltage high means there is a open in the circuit feeding that sensor or injector. Voltage low is a short. If I was in the middle of nowhere i would start the engine, and listen for a missfire. If there is a misfire I would inspect the wiring to the injectors on the outside of the engine for any abrasion or wear. I would then go under the valve cover for further troubleshooting. I am not sure of your ability so I will stop there hope it helps
  2. I think you will end up moving it forward. I have a 2002 f450 165 wb 84in CA. Struggled with this as well. ended up ditching my original flatbed for a northstar model designed for this chassis. The gooseneck ball is 2 inches ahead of the rear axle. The flatbed is mounted with a 2 inch gap between the cab and bed. the corners are angled off but not a lot. When it sits next to my f250 long bed with a bw turn over ball hitch. measures basically the same from the ball to the end of the tailgate with it down. They know you will have to back under with the tailgate down so i am hoping the clearance will be enough. I have not purchased a toy hauler yet. I have measured a few and don't believe I will have a problem. everyone says pin weight is 20 percent of total weight, tongue weight is less as almost all the weight of the trailer is on the trailer axles. I don't think it would be unsafe or overly squirrely but I'm no expert. probably look kind of goofy
  3. Pre ECM trucks did this. Horton N.O. 205 degree (normally Open) switch installed in the water manifold. Power or ground going in and out when coolant temp reaches 205 depending on your thermostat usually 10 or 15 degrees higher than your thermostat. Turns off at 200 The wires go to your fan solenoid. You run a ground or power to the N.O. switch on the engine to your dash switch for manual overide. You must also run a signal wire from your A/C high pressure switch to turn the fan on when your A/C is on. Make sure you wire in all three many times guys would try to run it with just a switch and would end up forgetting to turn it on. Overheating the engine or blowing the A/C high pressure relief. The wiring schematic was included with the Horton fan solenoids and temperature switches. Some used switched power most used switched ground with 12 volts constant power at the fan solenoid. The water switch will have 2 screw terminals on one side you will have 1 wire on the other 3 a wire to the solenoid, a wire from the A/C switch and a wire from your dash over ride switch all will engage the air solenoid turning on the fan
  4. TD1

    Oil sampling

    i work at a Cat dealership, They all process samples in there own labs, all the fleets that use sampling would almost always catch problems early the most important thing is to do it every time you change your oil and try to stick with the same lab because its all about trending. You will see certain levels trend up before there is a failure. Also good interpretation from the lab of the various elements.
  5. Never worked on Volvo engines -Cat Cummins and little Detroit. First thing i always ask are you getting illumination of the check engine and stop engine light when key is turned on if so this would indicate the Ecm is turning on. Then Observe stacks when cranking, Do you see any smoke, this will not apply to a engine with a DPF. If you see smoke that indicates you are getting fuel, so injectors are firing, Possible air in fuel or low fuel pressure. If no smoke. A voltage detector like the ones electricians use for check outlets and such works great if held up to the valve cover harness while cranking or even better on the top of the injector while cranking will verify the ecm is firing the injectors. If the Ecm is not turning on. I would start at the batteries usually they use 2 fuses 5 amp to feed the ecm. Many of the oem,s start with one wire then splice it into 2 which kinda defeats the purpose of having 2 wires. Pull lightly on all connections and splices to verify the are connected 10 lb pull test. I have seen where ecms just fail out of nowhere but you will not see the check engine and stop engine lights. Don't forget to check you grounds as well the Ecm will use several grounds for the circuity as well as the external ground strap you can see. also realize the key circuit will power the ecm up most likely through a relay. The ecm will have unswitched power and switched power
  6. I have never seen one go anywhere but on the bottom but who knows if you look at the release fork you can see that when its depressed it rotates right over the top of the release bearing. Many of the trucks in the last 10 years have auto adjust clutches. The adjustment procedure is different then the adjustable ones. Many times the release bearing is way over greased causing a huge mess in the bellhousing. The 90 degree fitting on the hose indicates the grease set up is different than the normal as usually its just a straight in the bottom of the bearing and out the bottom cover
  7. The grease hose goes into the bottom of the throw out bearing directly in the center. I have seen them fall out before usually they just dangle there but i am assuming momentarily it was trapped between the release bearing and the face of the transmission not allowing full disengagement of the clutch which is why would not shift properly. You may have noticed the pedal felt a little weird. The ring between the release bearing and the face of the transmission is the clutch brake. When you fully depress the clutch it squeezed between the trans and release bearing stopping the motion of the input shaft of the transmission allowing it to go into gear without grinding. Adjustment of the clutch itself and the linkage is critical to correct clutch operation
  8. That can be tricky. could be as simple as a fuel cap when I worked at freightliner there was a t/s flow chart for the tanks not equalizing don't remember the specifics. I would try googling it. I would bet the problems are related. the lower of the 2 tanks may have a plugged vent in the cap so not really building pressure but holding enough pressure that fuel goes to the other side. I believe the valve where the t on the return fuel side has a check valve in it as well as some kind of shuttle valve that works with the fuel caps to send the fuel to the lowest tank when working properly you can fill one side take off driving and they will equalize after while. lines to return from t fitting have to be of similar length size and routing as not to add any resistance to flow difference. if everything looks good i would try swapping caps from side to side and see what happens
  9. another thing you can check is just go around and snug up all the fuel line connections that you can get a wrench on. Another thing to look for that ive seen is those plastic or synflex fuel line will lay up against or on something on the chassis and rub through it starts as a very small pinhole and causes hard starting or low power until it gets so bad it wont start at all. If the system is allowed to draw in air in anywhere it will siphon back. Some of the trucks with duel tanks had a valve in the return where the lines tee d and went to there respective tanks. It may have a rubber flapper and spring to prevent fuel drain back as well
  10. Do try to get it repaired as a long time diesel tech I can tell you that excessive air leaks in the chassis cause the air compressor to run or cycle more that is should and it will eventually take its toll on it, if you have access there usually easy to change. Disconnects the control and use it to overfill the bags a little the shove a precut block of wood in there for support and then swap them out refill and remove blocks. Reconnect control valve arm and your good to go
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