DaveK

Follow up. I ordered a gas detector, found a leak underneath in a fitting to the furnace. Opened the flared copper fitting, cleaned and reseated twice. Leak is slower. Next step buy new copper tubing and replace run to furnace. May be crack in the copper tubing near fitting I can’t see. I will continue to turn on gas only for stove and showers, as needed, until I get the parts to resolve issue. After the leak is resolved then determine if the fridg is using excess gas, which I am still suspecting is a lessor issue for high gas consumption. Also replaced the regulator, it started sticking off after the original post. Someone previously installed a vertical 2 stage, I replaced with a horizontal 2 stage that is required for my configuration. Thanks for each of your replies. The most helpful was the recommendation to buy a gas detector.

The tank is 68.5 lb. Thanks for frig manual.

Thanks everyone for your quick replies. I am suspecting a gas leak. Since we only occasionally smell a small wif of gas, I dismissed this as major. The frig is always flashing the red light on gas, indicating it did not light even though it has a flame and cooling. I thought maybe the frig flame might be running non stop. I turned off the gas to frig and running 110 volt, I noticed the LP level drop but seems to be less. Note: All testing has been with stove, water heater and furnace turned off. Only frig used because we have food in there. So the last test was overnight, with frig running on 110volt. In less than 12 hours the tank dropped from 3/4 to between 1/2 & 3/4. I can hear gas flowing through the regulator when the valve is open and everything off. We just finished spraying the gas line from the valve up to 4 entry points through the floor with soapy water, no bubbles. Sprayed external and internal connections, when accessible on each appliance, no bubbles. Never gas build up in the cabin and rarely smelled inside. Everything seems to be pointing to an external link primarily. I just switched the frig to gas, the flame is blue. The weather seal on the lower left corner of the frig door does not seal tight, I suspect this will cause the frig to run more than normal. I am thinking: 1) A small and elusive gas link on the underside. 2) Frig needs a new door seal. 3) Frig may also have another issue since the red light always blinks when on gas even though it is cooling. Conclusion: Spray down the lines again to find the leak and get a new door seal for frig. Going through 14 gallons of LP every 3 days is expensive! The door seals are close to $200! Does anyone know of a source I can magnetic door seal in bulk roll and make a new seal? How much does an LP gas detector cost? Thanks again, I appreciate all your help.

I am a newbie/fulltimer trouble shooting a high LP gas consumption by my Dometic RM 3800 refrigerator. I am not sure if this is the right group, please advise if there is a better place to post my questions. The frig runs a cold 5 to 10 degrees in the freezer constantly within 2 hours of start. This is true on electric or gas. The refrigerator compartment will cool to safe temp in 8 hours from start. When running on LP it seems to use 3 to 4 gallons per day and will empty our LP tank in 3 days. As a newbie this seems extremely high LP consumption! What is normal LP burn rate? I am still determining if there is a LP leak adding or exclusive to the high burn rate. Still trouble shooting. My main question, what is the rate of LP gas consumption I should expect from a Dometic RM3800. Thank you in advance.