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amarie1

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Everything posted by amarie1

  1. For potential buyers I can see it's frustrating that PopSells (while walk-throughs are fine) won't let them do a test drive or have an inspection until they make an acceptable purchase offer and transmit a down payment to escrow. It seems backwards. But as a seller, I so understand this. I am not a dealer with a staff. It was tremendously time-consuming to schedule and conduct walkthroughs and test drives with potential buyers when I first tried to sell it on my own. Especially because my RV was stored in a location 40 minutes away. At least 4 or 5 people fiddled around with it, asked many questions, and drove it (with me in the passenger seat) and then I never heard from them again. That's on top of the dozens of email inquiries, phone conversations, and being stood up a few times. When I was a buyer last year looking for my first RV, and found the exact model I wanted in a nearby town and the price was right and the description, mileage, and images all looked good, then learned from their PopSales broker that I'd actually have to make a purchase offer before I could do a test drive (or even see it, since it was 3 hour drive away), I was aghast. But the broker told me -- and it made sense -- "if the RV is perfect, just as described, test drive goes great and inspection is great, what would you pay for it? That's easy to come up with a figure then, right? So do that, because then if the RV is not perfect, you just cancel the offer and you lose nothing." Which is what happened in that particular case. Paying them 10% is a lot of money I agree (as I mentioned, they usually just add 10% to your desired selling price). But it saves all the above hassle, and their back office handles all the payments, escrows, legal stuff, titles etc. I don't even need to be there for the walkthroughs or inspections, the broker is there. I ended up buying my first used RV, and now, my second used one (after selling the first), via a private sale, just me and the seller/s. In both cases I had to pay cash in order for them to pay off their loan, which means bank visits and a lot of trust. A LOT of trust, as I waited for their lien holders to send them the title, and as I drove around in "their" RV in a different state. We each just had a notarized bill of sale in case any glitches. I am happy that the trust paid off and no one had to pay anyone 10%. But it's a gamble, and a hassle. AM
  2. Ah of course Kirk, my apologies. I did visit the RVInsider link before posting and mistakenly assumed most or all of them were similar. Thank you for being so helpful in providing the links. Regarding PopRVs negative reviews it looks like many/most of them stem from poor performance from the local broker. Like getting a bad real estate agent. Something the company needs to address for sure.
  3. I've worked with PoPRvs twice, once as a buyer and once as a seller. They are on the up and up. In both cases the broker was a normal, non salesy- person. If you're interested in buying an RV you can certainly talk with them about it, look at it virtually (they take 100s of pix and a walkthrough video and post on many sites, including RVTrader.com), schedule a live walk-through, ask all the questions you want from them and the seller. No money need exchange hands. But if you want them to change the listings to "Pending" and not sell to anyone else while you're considering, then yes they want you to make an offer (which is 100% cancellable after an inspection and test drive) and put down a 10% deposit or $2500, whichever is greater. That goes into an escrow account. Then you have a couple/three weeks to ask more questions, get an inspection, a test drive, and so on. If you change your mind for any reason you get all your deposit back and the purchase offer is rescinded. (This happened to me when the RV I was interested in basically flunked inspection. My deposit was back in my bank account in 3 days.) I just sold my RV with them, and as a seller they were fine too. You pay 10% of the selling price to them. Basically they ask "what do you want to walk away with" and add 10% to that and list it. I didn't read any of Kirk's links ... I assume they say they're horrible. LOL. [Edit: Incorrect, I only read one of them. Others were mostly positive. It is a "neutral list". Thanks Kirk] FWIW they started (and still) sell boats, and the company is called PoPYachts. They got into RVs about 10 years ago think.
  4. Beautiful 30' rig with walk-around queen (upgraded mattress), ready to go, make an offer! Great shape, low miles, just take off and enjoy. We hold the clean title so easy transfer. Contact with questions or for more pix. Maintenance records provided on request, all manuals organized and provided. More pix on RV Trader "Bessie" has served us well -- round trips from Chicago to the west coast to visit family, mountain ranges, local trips to state parks, no probs. The 30' size drives like a big van and gets into all the state and nat'l parks as well as easy in-out to parking lots and residential streets. And it's perfectly livable with one or both slides retracted (see pix) for those "Camp Walmart" nights. 33,600 miles, 2017 model so all bugs worked out Ford E-450 super duty gas engine, 10 cylinders 6-speed automatic torque shift with Tow/Haul mode 8,000 pound towing capacity (we towed a VW Rabbit and didn't feel it) 29.95 feet long, 8.25 feet wide, 11 feet high, 6.8 feet ceiling 55 gallon gas tank Black tank: 26 gallons, Grey tank: 32 gallons, *with tank heaters* Two power retractable slides with slide toppers (awnings) 14' automatic awning passenger side Full-size spare tire Custom-sized white cover and straps for storage Clean, no smoking Back up camera Upgraded to 2 deep-cycle AGM coach batteries ($450 value) Upgraded over-the-bed vent to a remote-controlled Fantastik Fan ($1,000 value) Added an outside shower Added a bidet to bathroom toilet (less tp needed) Added a Safe-T-Plus RV steering stabilizer ($750 value) New exhaust system (muffler, "Tornado" catalytic converter) Outside entertainment center including 32" TV Outside kitchen Porcelain toilet (with that bidet), full shower with skylight, updated shower sprayer Tires in good shape All appliances and electronics are in good working order, she's ready to rock!
  5. Thanks all. I went ahead and got this from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DW38ZGQ I will need to get a TMobile prepaid SIM card. Not sure how that'll work but I'll learn and report back. AM
  6. Suggestions for an outdoor, battery-operated camera I can stick on my RV? It's parked in an outside storage lot and I'd like to be able to check on it. No electric hookups. And of course I'd use it while traveling too; that is, while at a campsite. At home I have Nest cams which are great ... would love to find something similar.
  7. Any Chevy-powered motorhome owners out there? I'm buying a 2018 Class C, 25', passed the certified inspection. It has a Chevy 4500 6.0 Liter engine instead of the Ford e450 I'm selling (30' class C). Curious about pluses/minuses for Chevy engines in RVs in regards to reliability, power, gas mileage, engine noise, ease of maintenance and repairs. I know Ford engines have much more market share among class Cs than Chevy's so I'm wondering. Also: does it have a Tow/Haul mode? I relied on that w/my 30' when dealing with steep inclines/declines. Thanks!
  8. Enjoy The Journey guy just interviewed a couple using Starlink in their 5th wheel. Very very interesting :
  9. Thanks all! Interesting. I'll be putting Bessie (my 29FE) on the market in a week or two. I've never sold something so expensive. I talked to a guy at PoPRVs who brokers sales and he said they charge $2500 or 10%, whichever is greater. That's a lot of money! Hrm. AM
  10. Anyone ever use Lemonsquad.com inspection service to get an RV inspected before purchase? Opinions? I'm getting quoted $750 plus travel (Cincinnati) by independents ... I know you get what you pay for, but still. Just looking for alternatives.
  11. yeah I'm looking at that. Interesting. But I would like a slide if at all possible. Hrm.
  12. I have a 2017 Thor 29FE I bought last year (my first rv) that runs great but is too large for just me; 1/2 of the floorplan is devoted to a queen walkaround bed and a huge wardrobe which I don't really need. I'm looking for Class C's that have this floorplan: Twin beds in the back (normally used to make one king bed but I'd use one as a couch) and up front, a couch with table or a u-shaped dinette. I hate the booth setup. Anyone know of a model that fits that bill? shorter than the 30' of my Thor? thanks!
  13. I've done two major trips with my first RV, a 30-foot Thor 29FE. It runs great but it has taught me a bit more about what I really want/need. My major issue with the floorplan is that there's so much wasted space in back with the walk-around Queen bed and wardrobe and closets. (It's just me and a doggo.) Ideally I'd have a sunny facing-twin bed floorplan that I could use as a living room too, or a one with a corner bed with windows that I could throw a bolster on and lounge there as desired. So now I'm looking for a "new" Class C ... 2015-2020 year models. (price range $50-$75K) For the corner bed and a rear bathroom floorplan, I want a big U- or J-shaped dinette. I'd prefer one with a slide by the living area. Length 24-28. Any model suggestions? I've noted down these: Forest River Sunseeker 2350 SLE or 2150 SLE https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/class-c-motorhomes/sunseeker-le/2350SLE/4413 Winnebago Itasca Spirit (though I don't think their current models have a corner bed) For the rear twin-bed floorplan, I've only found a Class A that fits that bill, and I'm not sure if I'd like all that sun glaring down at me while I'm driving πŸ˜‰ Thor Vegas 24.1 https://www.thormotorcoach.com/vegas/floor-plans/241/ Thanks for any help! AM
  14. This video done by someone who arrive with his family that morning shows what it was like "on the ground" ...
  15. Well I'm happy. Thank you for all the suggestions. I wasn't able to get a res near Teton or Yellowstone or even Hot Springs, though I'm sure I could've found some BLM for boondocking. My mind is just not there yet ... what with my trouble with the batteries (diff thread) and no solar. So now I'm taking i-80 east to Cheyenne, then heading north to Angustora State Recreation area (just south of Hot Springs SD) and then east to Lewis and Clark Recreation area (other side of the state) for a few days. That's my longest drive, 6.5 hours, but I can rest up once I'm there. I just need one more overnight place in mid-Iowa on highway 20, then on to last stop in Rockford, and from there to Chicago.
  16. Ah ... great advice. I'll investigate. Thank you Twotoes!
  17. They are new batteries ... two of them, AGM 31DT, installed serially in April by my RV tech. Apparently they drained almost totally (voltmeter read 2.9) because, I'm guessing, when I parked it in the storage lot here, I left the water pump on. (I saw the light turn on when I started up the generator a while later when visiting it.) If that was the case then the pump was turned on for anywhere from 5 days to 15 days.
  18. Thanks! I may do that. I did spend a couple days at Yellowstone (not in an RV) about 4 years ago and would love to see it again. We stayed near the north/northwest sections.
  19. Thanks all! Great suggestions. I’ll look closely at a map and your suggestions. I did consider going up the west coast to Seattle then 90 East but that was when I thought I had 4 weeks to do the trip, now that it’s 2 weeks looking for something a little more direct. Kirk I like your idea of heading up to Yellowstone NP and then east. Are you suggesting I just drive through the park (since I doubt there are any campgrounds avail) … can you do that?
  20. After the 4th, I'm heading home from Oakland CA to Chicago but want to go a more northerly route than I-80 all the way (how I went home last trip out here). I have 2 weeks for the trip, no reservations anywhere. Here's my first stab at a route. South Dakota to Chicago is fine, it's northern CA to South Dakota I'd like some suggestions for. 30 foot Class C, me and my dog. I prefer state parks and scenic/cheap RV campgrounds, occasional KOAs. I guess a boondocking night or two is not out of the question. Not a fan of scary mountain switchbacks. Any help?
  21. update: I took the RV to a local state park campground for one night, and the batteries charged up (learned that part of the multimeter!). I got back, parked it in the empty lot I'm using, put it in Store and enabled the kill switch to cut off the power. A couple days later I went back and put it in Use and disabled the kill switch, and the batteries were still at 12.9, interior lights came on. So that's good. Tell me this: If the Use/Store switch is set to Use, and the Kill switch is disabled, how long should the batteries last (stay a full or almost-full charge) assuming nothing is turned on except for the "phantom draws" from the carbon monoxide detector and such?
  22. thank you, great visual! That helps. In my field (software) we'd say "the kill switch is enabled/disabled" πŸ˜‰ AM
  23. yes it's the double negative thing happening. πŸ˜‰
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