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Stepchild

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About Stepchild

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    Virginia
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    Travel, Home Improvement

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  1. For those that use Copilot GPS on an Android Tablet could you provide a quick rundown on the specifications, i.e screen size, memory, storage, # of cores etc. I have run the old Copilot USA on a Nexus 7 but some updates have slowed that tablet to a crawl. Looking to purchase a new tablet and possible upgrade to Copilot GPS RV. Would like to stay in the Android OS. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thank you.
  2. I have owned since new a 2006 F250 6.0, standard bed (6.5') to tow a 06 Cougar 281 fifth wheel. Had a Reese Elite (called a Signature series then) slider installed with a flush mount rail system, meaning bed is flat with hitch removed. I was aware of standard versus long bed when I purchased it. Bottom line is I like the look of the standard more than the long bed. Maybe not a great way to choose a truck but the truth. No issues with this truck/trailer but that may be more about towing within limits. Cougar is 10k and has been weighed within limits several times. I don't think the bed or the 166" WB has any bad handling characteristics. The Reese is a good hitch but has it's limits. It doesn't like sliding when on non level ground and few other cases. If I had to choose again I would look at a Superglide or something with a fixed rail system. I can go into details but don't want to hijack the thread for a hitch discussion. My opinion: Run the numbers then stay within limits and have a pro do the install.
  3. Torque and HP are affected/related by RPM. For a flat torque (TQ) range the HP has to increase to make the same TQ at higher RPM. To make the truck go you need axle TQ to make force where the rubber meets the road. Transmissions can multiply TQ a great deal so not a factor at low speed. Once up to speed you must overcome drag and/or gravity (uphill). Once the TQ (think of it as force) and axle RPM (axle HP) exceeds the engine output you will slow. HP should remain the same from engine output to rear axle except for some loss. Probably preaching to the choir. Good discussion on Wikipedia on Stroke Ratio for various engines, motorcycle to large marine diesel. Diesels are under square.
  4. Also, aircraft servicing requires tires filled with dry gas to prevent moisture build up. The only dry gas source on airfields I've seen is the standard nitrogen servicing cart. Mentioned by NDH as well.
  5. LWH, This may be more than you need but I will share what I have done. I have digitized 3400 pictures (with 5k remaining), 1800+ Kodachrome slides and 30 cassettes of Sony Handycam video. Let's leave the slides and Sony out of this conversation but I can answer questions on those if you'd like. A basic flatbed is a good scanner but cannot only fit so many pictures at once. The other issue is getting the software driving the scanner to recognize individual pictures and make corrections (tint, contrast, scratch removal etc.) accordingly. My HP G4050 (under $200) could handle about 4-6 pictures per pass and had good software. The scan process was time consuming since you had to sit with the scanner for a minute or two then reload. Slow but very good output. Could scan slides as well. To go faster requires a capable scanner, read $$$. I settled on a Kodak i2420 document scanner, $700 from Newegg. Document scanners are straight through scanners to prevent jamming and allow faster scans. The Kodak I-series (i-22xx, i-24xx, i26xx and so on) is a double side scanner, loads at the top and feeds down to a tray. HP has similar models. This is the tricky part: some document scanners will handle photos and some will not. Research is critical. A basic scanner will also require a desktop that can handle the digital processing and graphics. Next is what software comes with it, meaning what will drive the scan process and make corrections. When the software and scanner are paired you may see this referred as photo batch scanning. My Kodak has the basic software to handle document to PDF and most photo scans that do not require too much correction. The software is powerful and takes time to setup and tell the scanner what you want. Once set, mine will scan 15-20 per minute with good to very good quality. Scanning several hundred per hour is easy. Badly damaged, faded, or scratched will require something like a Photoshop that will work with a particular scanner. This is more $$$. Kodak and others have professional level packages that start about $1500 and rise rapidly with options. These do a superb job but require extensive setup with the software. Photoshop allows some presets that will make all the decisions and output very good or better scans. Bottom line, basic flatbed easy to use, has good software, not too expensive but slow. Batch scanning, very fast, will require $$$ and setup time. More if pictures require big corrections. Sorry for the long post but as short as I can make it. happy scanning! Stepchild
  6. DT, See if this is the direction you want to go. This a basic spreadsheet but can be improved. I had to improvise on some things. Dry weight is without fuel, oil, people, condo items etc. so I added fuel to two tanks, driver..... 310 cm is 122 inches for the tanks. I guessed on the seat positions. Another thread is about singling long. What does a tandem axle weigh (axle, 4 tires, pumpkin, suspension)? SC WB101.xls
  7. Yes devil is in the detail. If the devil is in your aircraft he can be a mean SOB but that is another story..... I'd be happy to run with this. I just need actual truck numbers to bounce things against. A spreadsheet should help with math problems but there must be rules and definitions or garbage in will equal garbage out. Email sent.
  8. Here's a picture of the general idea. Simple but gets the job done.
  9. DT, I’ll do my best to tackle this but will need a great deal of help. First a quick intro. I’m a many year lurker of escapees and rv.net. The DW and I want to travel when we fully retire so we will need a bigger rig and truck. That lead to research on MDT’s such as F550’s. That lead to this other category called HDT. I am completely fascinated by HDT’s. You guys have done great work in both categories. I don’t know which path I will take but research is the key. On to Weight and Balance. I think you and mptjelgin have discussed the basics so the next step is to define the rules. My experience with this is as the lowest form of life, a pilot (can I still hang out with you guys?). My HDT knowledge doesn’t go much beyond what I’ve read here so this is where the help comes in. For this to work we have to have standards and definitions or one driver’s W&B will not be the same as another’s. I will make some proposals but these will need to be tweaked to fit. Proposed Definitions: Basic Weight (in aircraft AKA zero fuel weight, ZFW) is the truck with all fluids (oil, coolant, washer etc.) but no consumables, i.e. fuel or DEF, or crew. This is the starting point to which I add fuel, people, toad, 5er etc. This weight my not have applicability to HDT outside of those that do modifications to them. Nobody is going to weigh their truck empty tanks. Curb Weight (a car term I know) is Basic Weight plus driver and full fuel and DEF. In aircraft it does not include additional gear. In trucks this would mean fixed equipment such as Drom/tool box but no tools. Also no deck load, no food etc in truck. Operating Weight is Curb Weight plus pin weight, toad, truck/condo load to include passengers and all tools, compressors etc. Center of Gravity (CG) is the longitudinal location of the truck’s weight at any given time. It may not move much when driving but it should move as you burn fuel. Datum is the standard position of measurement for W&B and in Naval aircraft is always in front of the aircraft. This gets into the discussion of positive or negative values for moment arms. Positive values are for additions to W&B and negatives for removed gear. Reference Mark is various fixed point on the truck used to measure an object’s longitudinal position. I propose one RM on the front axle to make things easy. Datum Offset (DO) the distance in front of a RM. We need to fix the DO value to keep the moment arm sign convention consistent. With most front axle setback being about 5 feet DO should be higher to allow for front bumper mods and keep moments positive. Ten feet (or 100 inches if you like round numbers) should do it. Station is an object distance in inches from Datum. If the condo couch is 10 feet behind front axle then its station is DO + 120 inches. Later the moment will be people weight on couch multiplied by station to be added to the moment summation which will give CG and axle weight distribution. From this a spreadsheet would be easy. I would need an individual truck details: A weight ticket with exact conditions, fuel, tools people, all dimensions cab, condo, WB, pin in inches behind front axle. I was looking at Scraps numbers but do not understand all the terms in Truck 1: Truck 1: 11L, 6x2, 205WB, LH 100gal tank @ 3100, dry = 14257lb, front = 8690 Have I over complicated this? Or missed to point altogether? This form has been of great help to me so it’s important to give back where/when I can.
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