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    5th Wheel, RV Haulers, HAM Radio

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  1. Thanks Kirk. Had not looked there. Interesting that the 2016 and 2017 models are there but not on FMCA, but not the 2018 on either!! Maybe timing, as I'm not aware of any changes. Lots of people seem to have and still do (Subaru's last a long time) dinghy tow the earlier model years. They really seem to love them. I believe you also towed a Subaru at one stage. Still got it?
  2. Anyone use a recent (post 2015) manual Subaru Forester as a four down dinghy toad? Seems to be a lack of clear (explained) guidance from SOA (Subaru of America). "Moving forward, SOA cannot recommend dinghy towing. Our cars should be flat-bedded." No reason given. Nothing stated in their Owners Manual and they have not responded to numerous request for clarify by individual owners or FMCA. FMCA has removed Subaru Forester (Manual, Automatic was always excluded) from their annual Dinghy Guide. 2016, 2017 and 2018 (just issued but not on the link. Have to be a FMCA member). Lots of conspiracy theories (lawyers!!, trying to end the manual version due to EPA mileage pressure, ...). Have heard that some customers got a refund on a returned vehicle because of it and others just use it without any issues - but all were third hand. Anyone actually use a post 2015 Subaru Forester (Manual) as a four-down toad? Any feedback.
  3. Thanks Randy for sharing. No charging or load to LiMnO2 batteries seems illogical that would initiate a thermal issue. The 49.0 charge limit is well below the general 12S LiMnO2 batteries of 50.4V. The only "theory" I can throw out is that a single cell got significantly out of balance and significantly exceeded the cell 4.2V limit and went into thermal runaway. Would expect this in LiCoO2 batteries if there was some physical damage somewhere. Take a look at the Boeing 787 issue. [Might have to have the FAA come investigate you GC - did it fly? ]. Not aware of this being an issue in LiMnO2, but I don't deal with this every day. I do believe that you stated, and I agree, the LiFePO4 batteries are among the safest of the "Lithium-ion" batteries. I've seen them severely damaged and "abused", and not cause any thermal issues. They have trade-offs. But they all have special care and feeding needs. Other armchair theoretician ideas?
  4. From the DRV forum - same topic! https://suitesownersinternationaltravelclub.vbulletin.net/forum/soitc-general-forum/problem-repairs/64017-exterior-wall-delamination-on-2017-mobile-suite
  5. Randy, Anything you can share on your GC battery setup. Any LVD (low voltage disconnect) and more important, what charge controller was used and what HVD (high voltage disconnect) was used? Just trying to understand what might be the true root cause and any Chevy Volt battery lessons learned for those using or planning to use them. "Lithium ion" batteries are not all the same. While the lithium cobalt oxide (LiCoO2), are the ones you hear about causing laptop, cellphone and hover-board issues, they are liked by manufacturers because they offers high energy density, but as stated presents safety risks, especially when damaged. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), lithium ion manganese oxide (LiMn2O4, Li2MnO3, or LMO) [The first generation of Chevy Volt batteries referenced in the discussion] and lithium nickel manganese cobalt oxide (LiNiMnCoO2 or NMC) [Tesla Powerwall I believe?] offer lower energy density, but longer life and less likelihood of unfortunate events in real world use, (e.g., fire, explosion, ...). BUT, the care and feeding of any of them is critical. Not to be treated OR charged like a FLA or AGM. The heating and cooling systems on the actual vehicle Chevy Volt battery system is intended for environmental control of the batteries, rather than a safety system. Cars live in very cold (NE currently!!) or hot environments (Death Valley!) and operate (and charge) optimally within a certain temperature range. The Chevy Volt battery does have an actual BMS (battery management system) that manages the individual cells (all 288 cells) and does include thermocouple measurement as the battery bank (24 or 48VDC) level [two per bank I think]. Cell voltage balance across the bank is critical. Some have chosen to do this manually and check it periodically. Others may choose a BMS system. You can get a BMS system for a Chevy Volt 48VDC battery bank. It's about $50-60 and available on AliExpress (China). Have the link somewhere if anyone is interested. I have not tested it. Have seen a YouTube video, but no long term results. Maybe someone out here can relay any personal experience. Let the battery gurus appear [also other Lithium-ion battery threads on the forum], but mostly interested here in any feedback on the "outside engineering safety parameters" that may be a contributing factor [If you are willing to share - publicly or privately]. Thanks for all your really forthright sharing to date and wishing you a speedy recovery.
  6. I'm not a coffee drinker, but thought this was interesting, if you want your Espresso in the field. Also support of a veteran company.
  7. HHRV - Heavy Hauler RV. The HDT part of the forum. Those class 7/8 big trucks but the campgrounds site is geared toward any long RV setup. Not Escapees affiliated (that I know of). HHRV Campground site: http://hhrvcampgrounds.com/
  8. DC to DC 12VDC Regulated output. Need to determine your current draw or overall wattage need of your TV+ margin. Here is a sample but they have many different wattages. https://www.powerstream.com/dc12-12-8A-isolated.htm
  9. From "Mac the Fire Guy" The ladder in the video, but someone added the window brackets - not available from the OEM http://xtendandclimb.com/products/telescoping-ladders/home-series.html Another escape ladder
  10. Trey, Jim, Thanks guys. Understand the challenges in both validating information and in individual ability. Being a rookie with zero experience. I will dig out the information from the trip and send you the details. I guess I will "grade" the parks as I go, scout and get more experience. Some folks track parks in a Red/Yellow/Green category based on various criteria for them or from others feedback. Saw one park in Phoenix that I through there was no way a HDT with any length trailer long that 20' could get into. Cul-de-sac access to most sites and though you might need a heavy-lift CH-53E Super Stallion to get you back out. Probably no issue to you guys, but scared the $%^& out of me.
  11. Trey, Will have a couple from Arizona coming your way. Will add to the site. How do handle feedback on sites that might not be realistic for an HDT? Went in a couple in Arizona (by car on a scouting trip) that I would not encourage anyone with an HDT to even try to use!!!!!! Is there a vetting or "disqualification" process? Not sure if they were self-selected by the park owners or someone on the HDT forum selected them. Gerry
  12. Got to read the full thread .... SafeRide http://www.saferidemotorclub.com/products-services.aspx
  13. Customize to whatever size and thickness you want. Shipped to your location. https://www.tochta.com/
  14. No electrical problems on HDTs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - Multimeter (Clamp DC Ammeter, if not included on the multimeter or you don't want to disconnect wired. - 12VDC Continuity Tester, if you want to go "low" tech - Crimping tool
  15. There are also alternative to propane stove tops and furnaces. Could go all electric, but that would severely limit your flexibility and also push against any supply (shore power, generator, or battery/inverter) availability (power source and RV electrical distribution system), as others have stated. So, if you want to drop the propane and also not go all electrical, then you need to have another energy source fuel (some alternative for RVs). As Jack stated, that is probably diesel. But you then have to store/carry diesel somewhere. I'm assuming this setup it toward a full-time on the move system. Most of the international expedition vehicles (RVs of steroids - European: https://www.unicat.net/en/individual.php, US: http://globalxvehicles.com/) use diesel and electrical with solar as their power sources. But they move a lot and go places with limited fuel sources. Stove tops could be diesel (no flame), but more popular on the RV front are inductive stove tops. Much more efficient that propane and don't put extra heat and moisture into the RV. Downside, is that they need to be considered as part of the electrical load and they are still a bit expensive, but decreasing. You could also get a portable counter top single burner inductive cooktop to add flexibility to your current propane system or to try it out. You can also get diesel boiler/furnaces and even add an electrical element as a backup source. But to consider all these options you are probably doing a massive RV infrastructure change or a custom build. Food for thought.
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