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ras32758

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About ras32758

  • Birthday March 27

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    Bicycle touring, Cooking, beer brewing, full time rver.

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  1. I have had problems with the dashboard cluster on our 1999 VNL 610 since we started driving it in 2015. A dealer once said that our VIN sequence was equipped with a cluster during a short period know for electrical problems. I had been reluctant to send my cluster off to a site that will tell me what it will cost to repair. Right, "you have the device and you want how much to fix it????". My wife and I are in Florida for the winter and our son had used Leo's Speedometer INC. to have one of his dashboards repaired. Being able to drop it off, talk in person etc etc I was all in. I spoke with Ed. dropped it off one morning. "I'll take a look and call you back". That afternoon I had a call "$170 all in, I'll have it fixed shortly if you give me the go ahead. Several bad connections looks like everything should work when I'm done". The following afternoon it was done and ready for pick up. Bottom line. I would send him my cluster through the mail for repair. They can be reached at leospeedometer@gmail.com. www.leospeedometer.com. 305-8882385. They do trucks, cars, boats, planes, very impressed.
  2. I purchased a Rhino Extreme sewer hose set from Camco figuring the hose would last as long or longer than the Rhino Flex system I had used for the better part of four years. The Rhino flex has the easily repairable end fittings that allow one to cut out the damaged hose and reconnect. Searching on line I finally found a Camco video explaining that the Rhino Extreme hose connections are not removable as they are glued together so one should just cut it off and replace it with a Rhino Flex connection. Prior to buying a new flex connection as I didn't save both flex connections when I threw out the old hose (I just bought the newest best Rhino system after all) I decided to do a little forensic disassembly. If I could attach photos I would show you the four sets of tabs that hold the locking ring on. Sequentially move them with a flat blade screw driver until you are able to spin the ring off what is left of the hose and separate it from the rest of the fitting. Pull the old hose out. It will come apart as there is silicone glue used to create a good seal. That appears to be the glue they used that would otherwise render it un-repairable. Using an appropriately sized flat blade screw driver or your tool of choice work the old silicone sealant out of the joint. Once you have cleaned the joint to your satisfaction thread the locking ring back onto the end of the hose. Pay attention to the orientation of the ring in relation to the fitting. 50 50 chance you will get it right. I applied a generous bead of clear silicone sealant around the circumference of the annular space of the fitting between the hub and the exterior of the fitting. Work the hose and wire reinforcing over the hub. I was probably able to push 2 to 2.5 wraps of wire over the hub. Spin the locking ring into position. Keep going past the locking tabs until you find the spot that you can't get the ring any tighter without forcing the hose off the hub. I only had to do that once. Once you feel that you can get no tighter align the locking tabs on the ring to the appropriate spots on the fitting and push the ring into place to relock it. As I was cleaning the joint it was readily apparent that the cause of my failure was the strain I placed on the hose due to the hub used in this new design. My sewer inlet is elevated above the ground. The sewer hose hung down off the end of the internal hub onto which the hose is attached about five inches till it rested on the ground. I will now support the hose or remove enough standing water to take the strain off the hose. I have but don't use a trestle. After further consideration I will get it out to evade the gardener's weed wips. The old Flex connections do not have the internal hub and there fore no edge for the hose to hang over and break. They should do away with this new fitting and go back to the old one IMHO.
  3. Alan, What was your experience with the rear shocks? I am curious how you were able to manipulate the nut and bolt at the rear upper shock mount. Roy Alan, I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic. On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used. Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy. I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it. What did you end up doing?
  4. Alan, I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic. On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used. Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy. I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it. What did you end up doing?
  5. Thank you for the comments. I will probably end up using the nice fuse based connector they provided. You may have seen them. It plugs into an empty fuse slot. Gets power off the hot leg, runs through a fuse to then be connected to the seat. Cleaner than in line fuses and metal bits jabbed into fuse slots. Roy
  6. I have a 1999 VNL 610. Just installed heated massaging seats. Prepared to run new circuit but wondering if anyone has found the wiring harness that would have powered the seats? Truck did not come with heated seats so maybe they never ran the wires though my "Circuit Hound" seems to indicate that there is a wire under the floor pad at the back of the seats near the opening for the air line. Thanks, Roy 1999 VNL 610 2005 Teton 40' Forester Grand
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