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lhowemt

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Posts posted by lhowemt

  1. 15 hours ago, Dutch_12078 said:

    The bladder tank doesn't need to drive all of the water out, just enough so that any small amount left doesn't cause any damage as it freezes and expands. I do suggest closing the valve to keep the pink stuff out of the tank though. It can be tough to get it all rinsed out in the spring. I rarely winterize any more, but when I do, I use the blow out method with pink stuff only used in the drain traps.

    Holy heck. I cannot imagine not winterizing.  And with my luck I'd have the tank side of the closed valve freeze and leak.  I don't trust anything over the winter without glycol in my area.  I have seen cooling coils get blown out and still pop leaks come spring.  No thanks for me.  We blow out the rv and then glycol, at least then we need minimal glycol.  

  2. 14 hours ago, Kirk Wood said:

    Well..................  True scientificaly speaking, but I assure you that a 1 minute run while you are awake is far less than 3 spurts of 20 seconds each when you are trying to sleep.

    Yes, I am in your camp.  Having worked with an acoustical engineer on hvac noise complaints,  science supports that change in noise is typically more noticeable than a continuous noise.  Let "er run!

  3. Thanks everyone for the tips!  

    I have never seen the inside of a bladder pressure tank, I guess I didn't think that it drove ALL of the water out.  I don't think I will risk it, closing it off without glycol, living in MT we get below 20 below for extended periods.  However that may be good enough to just glycol the tank, and not mess with removal.  3 or 4 fill and flushes should do the job in the spring.  We don't drink it anyways, so a tiny bit of residual is not a huge concern.  And I'll  be bleaching it after flush and before use.

    I like the loop ideas for noise, thanks.  And I am glad to hear pex has some diy connection options.  

    Mscans we are the same!  I got a degree in Chem E, worked as a process engineer, then moved over to get my license in Mechanical.  A person has to be creative to stay in MT..... but hvac is not the most exciting engineering.  As a gal I find it better to just tell people up front that I have some knowledge and skilzz...

    On the pump start/run time, the darn pump is going to run about the same time either way.  3 of 20s bursts is the same as a sustained 1 minute run....  living on a well, I HATE excessive pump cycling.  And yes it shortens the life of the pump.  Turn it on and let it run.  

    Our camping area is still snowed in so one more weekend of truck camping for rafting.  I suppose I better start putting this stuff together so I am ready to do the job in about a month when it gets time to drain and dewinterize.

    Happy camping all!!!

  4. Of course this is for a RV, is this not a RV forum? :)

    Yea the acc tank is to reduce pump cycling, especially for nighttime (noise) as the pump is under the bed.  Installation orientation doesn't matter on bladder tanks, except for the freezing (draining) issue.  I believe that is why they say upright installation.  I want the 2 gal one because it is the biggest I can fit and 1 gallon or so of water expansion will be a HUGE improvement.

     

    What about the pex connection, diy methods?

  5. Hey all-  I am going to replace our water pump and want to install an accumulator tank.

    Tank: I am tied into this type of tank:  

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Gallon-Vertical-Pressure-Tank/1038561

    And have some fitting/winterizing questions.  I was thinking that I want to T that in to my water line, and go valve, union, valve, tank.  This would allow me to remove the tank for the winter, while not spilling water all over the place.  The valve on the system side would allow me to glycol in the fall (and spring bleach/flush) without the tank in.

    Question - what do others do, regarding these tanks and glycol?  I was thinking it would be a freeze hazard, as it will be installed on its side so nearly impossible to drain well.  Removing it I can fully drain it and safely put it in the basement.

    Question - any recommendations on piping, valving, unions to make these connections to pex?  I have never worked with PEX, easy DIY options for connecting to this new T?

    Water pump-  Ours is nearly 20 years old, so as it is weakening I am just going to replace it.  Recommendations of make/model?  How about easy to purge inlet filters (we get a lot of debris in our well water/piping system at the house).  Existing pump is a Shurflo 2088-403-144, 2.8 gpm.

    Also, any recommendations on a product to use for an outlet loop on the pump for noise?

     

    Thanks so much!!!

    Laura 

    (II am an engineer, very skilled at DIY stuff, just FYI)

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