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Everything posted by lhowemt

  1. Regarding funding the studs and the above comment to identify to locate them in the morning before the Dew Burns off -has anyone tried using a flir infrared camera to locate studs?
  2. Holy heck. I cannot imagine not winterizing. And with my luck I'd have the tank side of the closed valve freeze and leak. I don't trust anything over the winter without glycol in my area. I have seen cooling coils get blown out and still pop leaks come spring. No thanks for me. We blow out the rv and then glycol, at least then we need minimal glycol.
  3. Yes, I am in your camp. Having worked with an acoustical engineer on hvac noise complaints, science supports that change in noise is typically more noticeable than a continuous noise. Let "er run!
  4. Thanks everyone for the tips! I have never seen the inside of a bladder pressure tank, I guess I didn't think that it drove ALL of the water out. I don't think I will risk it, closing it off without glycol, living in MT we get below 20 below for extended periods. However that may be good enough to just glycol the tank, and not mess with removal. 3 or 4 fill and flushes should do the job in the spring. We don't drink it anyways, so a tiny bit of residual is not a huge concern. And I'll be bleaching it after flush and before use. I like the loop ideas for noise, thanks. And I am glad to hear pex has some diy connection options. Mscans we are the same! I got a degree in Chem E, worked as a process engineer, then moved over to get my license in Mechanical. A person has to be creative to stay in MT..... but hvac is not the most exciting engineering. As a gal I find it better to just tell people up front that I have some knowledge and skilzz... On the pump start/run time, the darn pump is going to run about the same time either way. 3 of 20s bursts is the same as a sustained 1 minute run.... living on a well, I HATE excessive pump cycling. And yes it shortens the life of the pump. Turn it on and let it run. Our camping area is still snowed in so one more weekend of truck camping for rafting. I suppose I better start putting this stuff together so I am ready to do the job in about a month when it gets time to drain and dewinterize. Happy camping all!!!
  5. Of course this is for a RV, is this not a RV forum? Yea the acc tank is to reduce pump cycling, especially for nighttime (noise) as the pump is under the bed. Installation orientation doesn't matter on bladder tanks, except for the freezing (draining) issue. I believe that is why they say upright installation. I want the 2 gal one because it is the biggest I can fit and 1 gallon or so of water expansion will be a HUGE improvement. What about the pex connection, diy methods?
  6. Hey all- I am going to replace our water pump and want to install an accumulator tank. Tank: I am tied into this type of tank: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Gallon-Vertical-Pressure-Tank/1038561 And have some fitting/winterizing questions. I was thinking that I want to T that in to my water line, and go valve, union, valve, tank. This would allow me to remove the tank for the winter, while not spilling water all over the place. The valve on the system side would allow me to glycol in the fall (and spring bleach/flush) without the tank in. Question - what do others do, regarding these tanks and glycol? I was thinking it would be a freeze hazard, as it will be installed on its side so nearly impossible to drain well. Removing it I can fully drain it and safely put it in the basement. Question - any recommendations on piping, valving, unions to make these connections to pex? I have never worked with PEX, easy DIY options for connecting to this new T? Water pump- Ours is nearly 20 years old, so as it is weakening I am just going to replace it. Recommendations of make/model? How about easy to purge inlet filters (we get a lot of debris in our well water/piping system at the house). Existing pump is a Shurflo 2088-403-144, 2.8 gpm. Also, any recommendations on a product to use for an outlet loop on the pump for noise? Thanks so much!!! Laura (II am an engineer, very skilled at DIY stuff, just FYI)
  7. Check out Yaak falls by Troy MT, also Kootenai falls by Libby. After you go through Glacier, if you come out the east side drive south via Choteau and Augusta. Gorgeous smaller road along the Rocky Mountain front. Highways 89 to 287.
  8. This MH was born in California, so that makes sense. I prefer not worrying about a malfunctioning device (not uncommon) locking out our heat and cooking. If NFPA doesn't think it adds safety, then neither do I
  9. Another question - I believe that when I do this replacement from the old CCI, that I need to have the solenoid valve removed, correct? I understand that the old unit/solenoid needed power to be open, so if I just remove the CCI I will not have propane (no signal/power from CCI). It sounds like newer MH's don't have this shutoff, so I should be fine doing so. Yes? I suppose jumpering it would be another solution, but I would rather avoid cobbling things together.
  10. Bought a replacement MTI propane detector/alarm for our motorhome. MH is 1998 with original detector/alarm so I figured this was wise to do. I ordered this off Amazon, and am wondering about the date on the back. Is it the mfg date, or expiration date? I am a bit leery from reading reviews on Amazon (of course after the fact) that talked about receiving a unit that was already 5 years old (end of official lifespan. This didn't come in any "factory" packaging and didn't have a upc. MTI is closed. Since it was cheaper than MTI lists it at, I am wondering if someone on Amazon is selling old expired units. Ideas??????
  11. Spacemaker150 coffee maker for sale. Works great, all mounting brackets included. It was in the used MH we purchased and we don't make drip coffee so out it came. It works well, makes hot coffee and keeps it hot (160 deg F). $100 plus shipping (from MT) http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/laurahowemt/2015-02-28%2015.06.11_zpsrurmyblb.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/laurahowemt/2015-02-28%2015.06.24_zpsxblamsxd.jpg
  12. Where is an appropriate place to list this coffee maker for sale? On this forum? Others? Thanks!
  13. I forget that rv fridges are absorption. Even though it may be common it is still a source for damage to occur if operated off level for an extended period. http://www.fmca.com/polks-top-7/2633-polks-top-7-tips-for-maximizing-your-rv-refrigerators-efficiency.html Laura- not making stuff up. Just stating one reason why some Don't recommend it.
  14. I believe the main reason for not running the refrigerator when travelling is the refrigerant needs to be still and (somewhat) level to work properly. It can damage the system if the compressor runs without refrigerant having properly returned to pump.
  15. what is the best way to fasten curtain rods to the exterior wall? I know that wallboard is thin, and I think it is tough to get screws to stay. Is there a special/certain kind of screw that will hold something light like curtain rods/curtains?
  16. Our names, our 2 cell phone numbers, and "microchipped". We went away from putting their name on them, as it could make theft easier. No
  17. Well that was so easy it was almost disappointing. I couldn't read the model with a mirror, so I stuck my phone back up there and took a few pictures. Model 150. Removal instructions: Lift up on the back while pulling forward. It was so silly! Removed the brackets, and ran a pot of water through it. It made it hot and held it hot. It looks like I have a unit to sell. Anyone interested before I post it?
  18. I will try this, along with a mirror if need be. It is in a corner so hopefully it will be kind of easy. Thanks!
  19. DING DING DING DING DING! We have a winner! Awesome, thank you so much. Your post turned on a very dim memory of the guy pointing out an obscure light switch. I had totally forgotten about it until now. And now the light works. Whew! The downside is two of the plastic covers cracked when I was getting into the non-working and another working one. Sheesh, but I guess 18 year old plastic is going to do that. I think I can find some of those online.... Thanks again!!!! Laura
  20. It is one of those cheapo ceiling mount unit with integral toggle. I unmounted it, and tested the wiring coming out of the ceiling, a probe on each wire with the couch battery switch off during continuity testing. On the working light, I did get a voltage reading and also continuity (with the beep per manual instructions). The bulbs I tested first, swapping out in other fixtures and putting working ones in this malfunctioning fixture. Fixture is similar to this but older: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/led-euro-lights-double-euro-style-light/74285
  21. And all the fuses look fine, but I suppose I should put fresh ones in for good measure. It seems unlikely that with only 8 or so fuses that one would serve that light solely, so I am skeptical the problem is a fuse.
  22. No, it is really old, probably original to 1998. Basically a square box with a sliding switch for on/off. I like the mirror idea, I will try it!
  23. If only the model number was listed where I could find it, I would
  24. Hi Again- We have one light (of course the main coach one) that is not working. It is the original 2 @12v lamp fixture, on a 1998 Jamboree. It worked when we bought it last fall,, but went out on our first camping trip. I checked the wiring (I am no electrical expert) and I seem to have no voltage and no continuity. I did the same tests on another light that works for comparison. Every other light works. Oh my, how to figure out where the wiring has connectors or a harness, yikes! I guess I am looking for some general advice. Since it is raining out and still winter I am not going to crawl under the beast to see what I can find. I am hoping they don't have connectors in a hidden location and that there will be a way for me to trace back to find where the connection has been lost. I sure am glad I tested this instead of assuming it is the old crappy light fixture! Laura
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