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johnschnee

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Everything posted by johnschnee

  1. Ronbo: Thanks, I was thinking it would likely come to that. My 14 Fleetwood Bounder had a controller in a handy location, so I was just hoping... 🙂
  2. Hey Gang! I've recently purchased my 2nd Class "A" & am having difficulty locating the "off switch" for my 2019 Fleetwood Southwind's awning wind sensor. I'd like to turn it off so I'd be able to semi-permanently set out my awning with straps, etc. My previous Class "A" (2014 Fleetwood Bounder) had the awning sensor controls conveniently located in the compartment above the entry door, but this rig doesn't seem to want me to find it! Wondering if it's maybe as simple as pulling a fuse??? I've searched all over - HELP?
  3. I had towed an AUTOMATIC transmission 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport model for 5 years with great success, the only "gripe" I ever had was we were unable to put anyone in the back seat unless they were HIGHLY flexible! Just purchased a 2015 GMC Terrain (basically, it's a Chevy Equinox) for (much) more passenger & cargo room - it's working GREAT!
  4. Guys (Gals?): I very much appreciate all the input above. I went browsing through my owner's manual (as some wise person(s) above suggested) & found out that, while when I have my jack system on "AUTO" a push of the RETRACT ALL JACKS button brings them all completely up, if I have the system on "MANUAL" the jacks will only retract while the button is pushed, so I did just that (held the retract button just enough for all the jacks to come up "just a bit"), then I releveled the rig so's now she (dear Wife!) is content - at least, for the moment! 🙂
  5. Kirk W. We are currently on concrete, so no way my jacks are sinking into the ground. I believe I'm experiencing a very slow loss of hydraulic pressure - that'll be addressed at the dealer when we get back home in April, but after talking with other Class "A" owners it seems to be a pretty common "issue" many face. As you likely are aware raising my jacks is an "all-or-nothing" proposition, so I can't simply lower the "high-side" just a tad. Now, after having raised a side earlier this stayover I can't raise it any more without risking lifting a wheel off the ground (a HUGE "no-no"), so I believe I either need to bring all 4 slides in & raise the jacks & relevel OR leave the 4 slides out & relevel that way. My concern, of course, is somehow harming/bending/offending a slide mechanism, which could be HORRIBLE! Thoughts?
  6. PJs: Sorry if I wasn't clear: I've already "releveled" a couple of times (by raising which ever side has "sunk"), but now, if I raise a side any more I'll likely have a wheel off the ground. The only option I see is to raise the jacks & start over - my worry regards doing so with the slides out. THANKS!
  7. We are on our first "extended' (all Winter) trip with our 2019 Fleetwood Southwind & we are running into pretty much the same issue we had with our first Class A, a 2014 Fleetwood Bounder: after sitting for a couple of weeks we find that our rig is no longer sitting quite level! It's usually just off by a smidge at first, but after a bit longer it's impacting the flow of the roof A/C's condensation & DW notices it when melting butter in a pan - it all runs to one side! In the old rig it usually seemed that the galley slide - side would "sink", but in this rig it's been a different side each time! The first few time I would simply SLOWLY & EASILY raise the side that hand "sunk", but after doing that twice in 2 months I'm not inclined to raise a side any further (the front wheel may come up off the ground - already bent a jack in the old coach because of that (looong story!), but I'd rather just drop it down completely (meaning: raise all 4 jacks) & then SLOWLY & EASILY lower them until I've got it back to level. What's the thinking here on lowering one's jacks & re-leveling WITH the (4) slides out? Thanks in advance!!!
  8. All, Appreciate all the great advise offered here: sweetie seems a little leery about the ideas involving apple cider vinegar, tabasco or cheap vodka, so likely I'll try the one involving baking soda! 🙂 Thanks again!
  9. We've been camping in a Class "A" for 6 years now, but this is the first time we've had to winterize our rig (always keep it stored or in use waaaaay down South) & am wondering - besides the obvious step of "running a whole bunch of city water through everything" are there any other steps I need to take to ensure that my DW doesn't taste or even think about any anti-freeze residue that might be left behind? I'm thinking maybe it would be a good idea to put some water in my fresh water holding tank & add some of those "fresh water freshener" products & then run that through? I also plan to sanitize my entire water system as soon as possible after getting my rig out of storage. Mostly I'm worried about the ice maker - any thoughts?
  10. Vern, Boy, that was the ticket! I ran the hot water heater on LP for about 1/2 hour (ran out most of the hot water so's it would run continuously) & then tried the gas furnace: BINGO - it lit right up, 1st time! THANKS!
  11. Daveh: Thanks for the handy info. - I'll review your attachments (& save them for later!) & make further efforts to get the air cleared from the gas lines. THANKFULLY this new rig has TWO heat pumps, so sweetie-pie will be cozy & warm in the meantime! THANKS!!!
  12. We are on our first trip with our 2019 Fleetwood Southwind & this is the first morning it's been cold enough to need to use the Dometic gas furnace (Model # DFW D36 141); the blower runs for about 2 minutes then shuts off with the furnace never igniting. The red light blinking 3 times, then pausing for 3 seconds tells me I've got a "Ignition Lockout Fault". I suspect this is being caused by air in the line & in my 14 Bounder I would just run the gas stove burners for few minutes & that seemed to clear the air out & the furnace would work fine. BUT, this rig has an ELECTRIC stovetop (& a RESIDENTIAL frig), so, besides powering off for 2 minutes to allow the thermostat to reset then try the gas furnace a bunch of times I can't come up with any way to clear out the air in the gas line! Any suggestions?
  13. Has anyone tried applying 303 Aerospace Protectant to their Diamond Shield paint protection system - as recommended by the manufacturer of Diamond Shield - to keep it looking good? I'm in the midst of trading in my 2014 Bounder, which was showing some pretty severe signs of mold under it's DURA SHIELD covering, for a 2019 Southwind, which comes with it's "face" covered by a Diamond Shield. I'm trying desperately not to have my new rig face the same fate & I've see a post on here where a fellow claimed he's used 303 on his Diamond Shield for 8 years & it still looks practically like new! The Diamond Shield offers to sell the 303 Aerospace Protectant spray & states: "Diamond Shield recommends the use of 303 Aerospace Protectant every time you clean areas with Diamond Shield applied. The "303" will replenish/provide UV screening, repel dust, soiling and staining. Proper maintenance will enhance the look and life of your Diamond Shield application." Anyone have any experience with this OR any suggestions (besides stay away from areas of high humidity!) for keeping my new rig's "face" from getting UGLY before her time?
  14. Kirk, Thank you for all the useful information! JS
  15. Kirk, As always, THANK YOU for your advise here! I never had heard of having your OIL or TRANSMISSION (I almost used the old slang term "TRANNY", but understand that has a quite DIFFERENT MEANING now!) FLUID checked out like that - assume your watching for WATER, GASOLINE or OTHER FORIEGN MATTER infiltration, all of which can ruin one's day? The AEROSPACE 303 - being a UV PROTECTANT - I understood can help protect those expensive tires from damage from the sun PLUS, as it "conditions" the rubber I can help ward off DRY ROT & damage from OZONE exposure? I too cover the tires when the coach is "resting". I initialed stated using the 303 to condition the rubber seals on my slides, as advised by an old RV tech at the dealership where I purchased in '14. Besides, I got a bargain on a gallon of that stuff, so I figure I may as well use it up! Again, THANKS!!!
  16. "Honey-Bunch" & I have been RVing for five years, having purchased (new) a 2014 Fleetwood Bounder 35K. We've had a GREAT time with it - not too many "problems" with it, excepting those we've created for ourselves, of course! It's called a "learning curve" & it can be pretty steep, sometimes! Anyway, we found a NEW coach (2019 Fleetwood Southwind 36P) that we'll be picking up next week & immediately take camping: first, just a 3-night "shakedown cruise" to work out any "bugs" (straight back to the dealership if we do find any!), then the following week we are off for a month-long trip through the SE USA. Here's my question: If YOU were to be starting out with a new rig - your 2nd - what would you do differently? I've come up with a few things already! 1. Keep a more thorough "maintenance log" of date & mileage of oil changes, generator services, etc. (Admitting I wasn't always so thorough with our first rig!) 2. Apply 303 Aerospace Protectant to all "non-tread" surfaces of all tires REGULARLY! (Didn't know about this product until the 3rd year with first rig.) ANY useful suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated! THANKS!!!! 🙂
  17. Yes, there is! I tried holding that button while running the screen up further (it moved up!), then held the button while I tried to bring the screen back down (It didn't budge!) Help?!?
  18. Took our 2014 Fleetwood Bounder motorhome out of storage and are finding the motorized windshield sunscreen will only go "UP" but, once it's UP it will not go back down at al! I've tried holding the "learning button" while trying to lower the sun shield but noting I've tried will get the dang thing to come back down! Again, it's getting power and will respond to an "UP" command from the rocker switch, but "DOWN" is a NO-GO! Help?!?
  19. We clean the intake filters regularly but thanks for that suggestion. We will try the Lysol. Thanks!! John
  20. In recent months my Dear Wife has been noticing a faint "musty" smell emanating from our 14 Bounder's A/C ductwork when the A/C cycles on: it seems to last for just a minute or so, then it disappears. We use our rig about 1/2 the year & it doesn't seem to matter if it's been in storage for 2 months or if we are the middle of a months-long trip & running the A/C on auto for days. Suggestions?
  21. Well, you know what they say: "Sometimes even a BLIND squirrel can find a nut!" Thanks for your help!
  22. Well, seems this "saga of the troublesome house batteries" may FINALLY be over! I pulled them out & took them to an local auto parts store to have them checked out! The verdict: ONE was "deader than a doornail" & the other was well on it's way to joining his/her pal! The tester mentioned they also noticed some "swelling" of the cases of BOTH batteries (especially the dead one) & also that there were indications that "dead Fred" had been leaking a bit! That probably explains the puddle of liquid I noticed in the battery box!?! He also said that the test of the "as yet undead" battery showed an extremely low level of "cranking amps"? Anyways, I bought TWO new 6-volt batteries they happened to have in stock, installed them (that took a bit of effort as the cases were just a might bit smaller that my old batteries, so I had to make modifications.) The on-board voltage meter read 12.58 Volts & the generator cranked right up....... here's hoping for the best! THANKS again! :-)
  23. ChuckBear: That's exactly the route I intend to take this week - remove the batteries & have the fully Justtested at my local auto parts shop! Just a bit more "background": I started noticing this issue (house batteries run down while sitting in storage with battery isolator switches "OFF") at least 6 months ago: upon further investigation I noticed that the TV's red LED lights were remaining "ON", which led me to realize I should've also been turning off the INVERTER! I've been doing so these past few months (while stored), but - on occasion - still find the batteries quite low after just a short period. Also, I've found that the LP GAS DETECTOR is direct-wired to batteries, so that drain can only be stopped by physically disconnecting the batteries - I assume there can be other "loads" I don't even know about..... Lastly, I've been checking & filling these batteries MONTHLY since I bought the MH (I paid attention to THAT bit of advice from my dealer!) :-) Kirk: I appreciate your kind advise as well, but just find it a bit worrisome it's coming from a guy who WILLING traveled in a boat that went UNDER THE WATER! Doesn't seem natural.... :-) JS (MSgt, USAF ret)
  24. Dick: Please see my previous post titled "on & off House battery problem". I've been fighting this issue for at least 6 months now & it just gets me weary to worry if I'm going to have battery power in my coach after even a few days between trips! I'm gonna pull the batteries & get them tested at the local auto parts store &, depending what they show me, anticipate I'll be installing NEW house batteries in the very near future. Kirk: Between April & October I store the MH here in Lancaster County, PA, where the summertime temps range from the 50s to the 90s, and when I'm storing it in GA in Nov/Dec the temps seem to range about the same, so I can't figure that temperature is a factor in my batteries seeming shortened lives. THANKS AGAIN! (I've been camping just about 4 years & I've learned a TREMENDOUS amount on this forum!)
  25. I've experienced what I believe is "prematurely worn-out" HOUSE BATTERIES (2 6-volt) in my 2014 Bounder, which I'm wondering may be attributed to my NOT ever having disconnected or removed the house batteries while the MH was in storage. In a typical year I've been storing my MH in Georgia during Nov & Dec WITHOUT doing anything with the house batteries, just ensuring the water level is correct (I check & fill them monthly). BTW - I have no way to put a "trickle charger" on the batteries while the MH is in storage & I'll be about 800 miles away, so stopping by to exercise the generator isn't an option. Now it appears that they'll soon need replacement batteries & I want to avoid replacing those after such a short period. I'm wondering if I shouldn't be pulling out my house batteries & bringing them home to "sleep" in my cool, dry basement then recharging them before I reinstall them in January? How long - with using my MH about 1/2 time - should I expect my house batteries to last? THANKS in advance for your kind consideration!!!
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