Jack Mayer

I second Rear View Safety. I've used a wide variety of brands over the years. RVS is as good as it gets. We use them exclusively on our truck builds. One thing to note - they use a 5-pin connector, NOT a 4-pin. There are adaptors for both Voyager cables and for the 4-pin. Their monitors and DVR systems are very good. I'll answer any questions you might have if I can.

I agree with that assessment. I'm also very familiar with the Luxe, and it compares very closely and favorably to a DRV.

You won't find many used Spacecraft's that are conventional RV's - many are oriented towards special needs. I've owned three custom New Horizon Majestics. And I'm VERY familiar with DRV's, having worked on many of them installing electrical modifications. You are really talking apples and oranges when comparing them, in my opinion. The DRV has a very nice interior and is well designed. The NH will have higher quality components inside; for example, drawer boxes will be maple and dovetailed and fully finished. Just one example. But the DRV interior is very nice. The difference is in the infrastructure. Depending on how it was speced the NH will have more advanced elements in its infrastructure, and the wiring, in particular, will vastly exceed what is in the DRV. So will the price. As with anything related to the RV industry, it is all about the tradeoffs you are willing to make. There is nothing wrong with a DRV - they are quite nice. But they will not have the same construction as a NH.

I've used baskets for years. But no longer will use them, and we will no longer supply them with our beds. We will use either over the wheel straps with tire blocks, or more likely, through the wheel tie-downs. Personally, the through the wheel ones will be the ones I use. The baskets are too hard to place properly on 453's and they are more prone to movement or coming loose. Because they are harder to put on, I've seen many - and I mean many - "dubious" tiedown efforts. The other methods are more reliable for most people. Don't get me wrong, the baskets work fine if properly handled. My opinions, only.

Davids information is as correct as far as anyone can tell. I know people that have towed 10's of thousands of miles with a 453 (three people). I've also towed mine, but not as far. Follow the procedure and you should be OK.

Not sure...I just look it up and order it when I need one.

I change my filter every year if I remember (average is likely 18 months). They sure look like a regular cheap filter to me....but maybe not. I've not tried the cheap inline filters, but I see no reason they would not work.

The only thing I can say, Chad, is "that's life with solar"....at least with a large system like you and I have. It is not about the money you save...it is about the ability to live off grid with minimal sacrifices. And know you can be independent no matter where you are.

Rick, we have two empty lots there....if you are staying for awhile we can accommodate you..... just email me.

Exactly. I buy a fair number of things direct. When I was doing solar installs I also bought some components directly. Fittings, etc. My philosophy on direct was/is that it has to be cheap enough that it is "throwaway" if it fails or is not satisfactory. Because the process of getting "satisfaction" with a problem is not "satisfactory". Really - it can be a major issue. For a home project, it is less of an issue than if you are working with a customer. You should be aware of potential problems. "How well do you do in Vegas"?? However, there are some true bargains with direct purchase. There are also some good bargains on resales/refurb equipment in the US if you look. As an example, years ago I used to acquire CPEs (networking equipment) that sold retail in the $85 range (this was well before WiFiRanger came about). On surplus purchases, I paid $1.85 per unit. Yes, you read correctly. New, in box, surplus $1.85. Whats the catch? I had to buy 1000 (one thousand) at a time. Sold them all, though. So there are deals out there if you know how to balance risk/reward.

Posting pictures directly on this forum is difficult. Use the tool HERE . click on the link above and it will take you to the tool. You might want to place the tool link in your bookmarks or your browser bookmark bar for ease of access. Mine is in my bookmark bar so it is always on my screen. The tool allows you to move a picture into their facility, and it will then create a proper link to paste into your post. This embeds the actual image into the post. It automatically sizes the picture appropriately. Follow the directions of the tool. Once the tool creates the image link, simply copy it and paste it into your post where you want the picture to appear. To test this, you can go to the "Test" section fo the forum and create a test post....just scroll down to the bottom of all of the sections and you will see the "Test" section.

Definitely, you are not pumping it enough. You could have a pump problem, but you'll never get it with 10-15 pumps if you have a prime issue. At least I never have. If you can do it in 10 pumps, then the truck would have started with a 10-15 second key-turn.

As you can see there are lots of possibilities to losing prime or having a fuel-based hard start. Another is a bad injector cup. It can be very difficult to find the problem, but look at the most likely things first....the list above is a good start. On a hard starting truck pumping the primer 100 times is not that unusual. You should be able to feel it pushing fuel when it finally "gets prime". I always assume I'm going to pump at least 100 times....sometimes I'm surprised.

I thought I had heard the A/B non-CDL test was no longer done in Livingston and was only done at designated centers. That obviously is not true. So am I imagining things, or has that been changed??

Got mine in 2001.

So I wonder how Pat&Pete saw the non-shared Camping World Prices photo??? ANd you are right - Goggle totally screwed up the photo management they used to have. ....it used to be easy to use and effective. Now it is hard to use, and a mystery.

So the way I did that was go to the google-stored photo I wanted, right click, selected "Copy image address", and then pasted that directly into the comment window. I did set sharing on the photo, but I wonder if it would do it anyway...lets try one without sharing set to public.....follows....

I guess this will not work, then. Too much trouble to both figure out, and for those that are not on Google in some unknown fashion. Did the above show up for anyone...I tried it as an embedded link....

Not sure Chad....it has "something" to do with Google, for sure. I'd guess those that can't see it do not have a google account that is active.

So it seems I must make sure that the photo is in a "public" album. Which kinda makes sense.

Hmm, I see it...wonder why. Maybe you have to set sharing correctly....see if you see this one. First the link, then the actual inserted pic. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6eKZOt1d74chscsz1

The way most modern campgrounds are wired for 50 amp pedestals is that a feeder set of wires is daisy chained from one pedestal to another. The size of this feeder wire will vary based on the load factor used in design, how far the run is from the service panel, the number of pedestals on the circuit, and the designers "philosophy". There are some NEC rules that have to be followed, but there is a lot of latitude within those rules. Typical pedestal has the feeders on a bus bar for the various legs, and then the receptacles are pulled from that bus bar. One of the 50 amp legs services the 30 amp as well as the 50 for that pedestal. The feeder can handle more than the 50 amps on that leg of service - far more, because of the size required to feed the entire circuit and minimize voltage drop. Again, it varies based on the conditions above. But there is almost always enough power available to run 30 and 50 at the same time - until everyone else starts doing the same thing. The internal wiring of most peds can handle it fine (the rating of the internal bus), but the feeder lines may not if the right conditions prevail - in which case the service panel breaker for that circuit will open.

Or, if you use Google Photos or Drive.....go to the picture, right click and select "Copy". Then paste the result here....the following photo was inserted with a 'Ctrl-V"

Thanks for the re-post

I think it would be helpful if someone posted the list of part numbers in this thread....I cannot find them at the moment...