Jack Mayer

I've towed a 2016 453 behind our motorhome for a couple of years and at least 8,000 miles. Seems to be fine to me. I follow the published procedure that Mercedes says to use. From Mercedes. Not some forum. If you want to tow, talk to Mercedes. I'm not posting anything because I'll just be told that it is all wrong, can't be done, etc. Do your research, but I assure you that you can flat tow a 453. I'm sure David will post the proper procedure. Here is a pic - I put a drop hitch on it so it is perfectly level now.

I'll be interested to get feedback on its use in a Volvo. How does it compare to the Silverleaf offering? Anyone have an opinion?

It is called an ET Farm model. You can order one from us. Or directly from Youngs

The Spyder is overwidth when loaded crosswise, but not by as much as a smart. We built the Watts stacker, so if you have questions let me know. They carry two F3's.

Ok, not only do I know about Linc and Mapper (not as much about Mapper), but I can program in Espol/NEWP. Heck I even know what DMS is 😁And I know Fortran pretty well - I was on the National Standards Committee that created two versions of it. And I'd bet you know what CANDE is too!! Blast from the past. I worked at Unisys/Burroughs Large Systems - starting in 1968 in the summer. In the summer of 1970 (I think it was) I helped assemble the first 7700. Processor 1. Started full time when I got out of college in '73.

LINK

I guess the question is: I'm a Chrome user and use Google ecosystem exclusively - Drive, Photo, all their apps, etc. WHY would I want to even try out Edge if it "looks like Chrome"? What advantage is there to it?

I would guess there is Rick, but I've never looked it over to see if it can be done.

PLEASE read what RandyA wrote and understand it all before wiring something up. You can use the voltage drop calculator HERE to calculate wire size. It is pretty obvious how to use it but I'm happy to answer questions. I rarely see wiring done correctly (although I'm sure that Chad and Randy do 😀). It is very scary, and I'm surprised there are not more issues. You can get away with that with smaller loads, but when you get into big loads you are getting into riskier territory.

That is what we do with the 453 rear missing nut. We take salvage ones from 451 models and weld them in where they were supposed to be. After that everything is like a 451.

You should easily be able to load onto a deck that is 48" off the ground. Especially if you find some higher ground for the 12' ramps. Or do the things suggested with boards. I'd be shocked if you had a bed higher than 48" with air dumped. Driving it on will work quite well, especially if you find slanted ground. It does not take much of a hill to make the loading process simpler.

John, what I usually advise people to do these days - on any but the most conservative, small systems - is to maximize the solar panels right from the start. Given the cost per watt of panels, and especially if you are DIY, you may as well cover your roof with panels and upgrade your controller(s) to handle the array size. Given the cost of the total job it in not much more, and you rarely find someone complaining they have too much power generation capacity. Of course, there are legit reasons not to do this - but for most people, it is something to be considered if you are going to the trouble of doing solar and actually intend to boondock.

If you want, you can stack panels on top of each other. Put one set of the pair on sliders and pull them out cantelivered over the side of the trailer when in a fixed place. For travel just push them back under. Make sure the bottom one comes out far enough not to be shadowed (much).

You can't have a shop working on these trucks without one of these!! We use ours often. And Carl, you are right, I'd bet David has a SnapOn one......or maybe Matco, if he would stoop that low...

Glenn, isn't it hard to weld that way? (seeing double?) or are you just twice as good? Heck, these days I have a hard time welding seeing only one puddle!!

Anything using a power brick will benefit from pure sine wave. In general, the electronics in todays devices other than things like heaters also benefit from pure sine wave. We only install PSW inverters. They do cost a little more, but are worth it, IMO.

Ive been using the Kisea Abso 2000 watt inverter charger for a few years now on various projects. For a moderately priced direct-wire inverter/charger with remote panel it is a pretty good price and the specs are decent. I've had excellent luck with them. It is what we also use in our shop. I've probably installed 20-25 of them and had zero issues with them. Don Rowe generally has a decent price.

As one who does this type of work quite a bit, I have a dedicated set of the common tools I use and they are all taped up. They stay in my electrical bag. It is a good practice. And yes, I learned the hard way, like everyone else....

What I often do Glenn, is put a piece of copper bar drilled out for your extra loads - custom drill for what you need.. This connects at the shunt and gives you a place to mount additional wires. It is a neat solution that does not take up much space, just hung off the shunt. It does depend on your needs, though. If only a few wires then stacking them works. I use 1/4"x1" stock for 400A loads.

I was referring to the battery monitor. There are some differences with the inverter technology that may not be optimal for all users. But for most they work well.

Years ago I definitely preferred the Bogart Trimetric over the Magnum BMK. They were far more accurate at the time. Now, for most people with a Magnum system I'd say just put in the BMK. The unified remote is nice. I've had them both and the technology of the BMK is sufficient for most people. Personally, I prefer the Victron at the present time, because I like the remote features, especially the bluetooth. The cost is in the same ballpark.

The extended arm can be put on, but the rest would require an extensive rebuild. For those that have older Binkely heads and other items they wish to replace there is a swap-out program where your get an entire new hitch. But you don't want to do that unless you are having issues, since it is not particularly cheap. We can do the work in our shop.

The ET also has had a number of enhancements in the last year. Including an upward dampener to reduce any oscillation that "could" occur on an unbalanced trailer (too light a pin weight and axles too far forward). Also, a longer release arm is now available, if required. There have been a number of technical improvements that make manufacturing easier and more precise.

Yes that is true. You will be able to upgrade all the way to a 9/38K, and maybe to a 10/40.

I answered this on Facebook with a VIN number