Randyretired

My truck did that a few times then in Utah it wouldn't start. Turn the key on and it seemed ready but then just click. The problem was internal battery cable corrosion. The positive cable was bad. Changed both cables and all has been good. Both cables looked good and I cleaned and tightened the cables but that didn't do it. When we jumped around the positive cable the starter cranked but slowly as the jumper cable was to small. Replaced the cable and all was good. Changed the negative cable just in case. Wish I had found the problem before I was traveling. It can be difficult to find good help when stranded in an unfamiliar area.

I think you could use this type of charging to finish charging the second RV's batteries. Maybe use a robust charger with the generator to do the bulk charging and finish with the 120 volt extension cord method. Running a generator to top off batteries is very inefficient and time consuming. We have done this but the solar was was not large enough to do it every day without sacrificing usage in the 1st RV.

We have had National General insurance for 14 years. Our HDT is older, 2001 and even though we have full coverage I'm sure they wouldn't pay much. Our bill is a little over $600 a year. I inquired about increasing the value of the HDT but the bill would increase drastically so I just accept their cheap coverage. They also insure our car, PU and 5er. The last ticket I had was more than 30 years ago. We have not had a claim with them.

My removable panels are held on with 1/4" 20 bolts. The nuts are welded on underneath. These are just part of the bed and do not have anything tied to them. One of the panels is fairly big and somewhat heavy so I drilled 2 holes and welded nuts so I can bolt on a handle to pick it up with. I have removed these panels to work on a some things and I am sure glad they are there. These are quiet.

The Outback we have has a fan and some complaints can be found on the internet. I put ours in the front storage compartment and the only time I hear it is when I am retrieving things from that cabinet. It is a not an issue for us but our system is only 1260 watts. We have been boondocking most of the summer in the mountains of Colorado. Rarely do we need air conditioning so our generator usage is minimal. Maybe a few minutes up to an hour a week.

I was in a similar situation when I upgraded my solar a few months ago. I found an Outback controller for $300 less than Victron. I went with the Outback and I am happy with it. Many recommended the Victron and it has some nice features but not worth the extra $$ for me.

I hate to say HF tools are good tools as some of their stuff is cheap, but a hammer is a hammer. Most of their hand tools are actually pretty good. I even put my Craftsman ratchets away in favor of HF ratchets and sockets. I have a lot of their tools and most are just fine for a DIY guy like me. HF is also starting to carry some better quality tools at a higher price.

These were the OEM tires on the Alpenlite 5er. Despite my Goodyear problems, I have had much better luck with LT tires. To add to the story the local dealer that repaired the damage said they had a high number of these 5ers with identical damage, caused by Goodyear tires. I usually use XPS Ribs now (an LT Tire) and have never had a failure but the price has me looking.

Some years back our 5er blew all 4 Goodyear Wrangler tires on one trip. The tires caused significant damage to the 5er. These tires were 2 years old. I check the tire pressure every morning before heading out and we weighed the trailer immediately. The 4, E rated LT tires were supporting about 9700 pounds. Well below the capacity. We took the tires to Discount Tire and they told us there were problems with these Good Year tires and our experience was not out of the ordinary. The tires were sent back to Good Year and they paid for new tires and the trailer damage. I appreciate that they took care of us but Good Year put us in danger. I don't buy Good Year tires!

It has been a few years since we traveled to Alaska and the suggestions given here worked well for us. However, the best information we received came from other campers. Each time we came to a new place we would talk with fellow campers and share experiences. It completely changed our itinerary. As others talked about their experiences it wasn't difficult to find things we wanted to do. I think we were also able to help others with what we had done. We struck up a conversation with the people next to us one evening and they said their trip was kinda boring. We began talking about things we had done and suggestions from others. The next morning they packed and headed out. They originally planned to stay the week but the things we talked about changed their minds. Alaska is an exciting experience for most everyone and getting people talking about what they had seen and done was easy. Listening to others and having a flexible schedule made our trip!

We like to get away from the hustle and bustle. We prefer dispersed camping in the National Forest or our summer property. Currently we are at our summer property which is 140 acres surrounded by large ranches and BLM. If you don't like solitude this isn't for you.

Glad I was able to say something that led YOU to figure it out. Great analytical work runaway parents. Happy travels.

When the batteries get low many Volvos systematically remove power from some things. Usually these restore when the batteries are charged. If the batteries are charged there might be a problem with that circuit not allowing it to restore power.

For the roof eternabond tape and for the fiberglass either little bondo or gel coat. When I put a new ladder on our Teton I went to a fiberglass repair shop and had them mix a little jar of gel coat to match the color. Filled the old holes then sanded it down even and buffed it out. Bondo and a some touch up paint might also work.

California has some history enforcing length laws and recently significantly raised violation fines. If one were to be cited I'm pretty sure $100 wouldn't begin to cover it. Over length and over weight fines can be very expensive. Arizona on the other hand must not prioritize over length as I see many long setups. There are more than one of us posting here that are over length or over width at times so I guess it is not a priority in a lot of states. If one were to be involved in an accident priorities might change.

If the soil is soft and if drainage is a problem it would be wise to build a base before you pour. As Kirk said if gravel roads in your area fail then road base may not be enough but if you think it might work, road base makes a good base. If it isn't enough then pour concrete over it. In our area we can buy road base with 3/4" rock, 1 1/2" rock or 3" rock. I have used the 3" to firm up soft areas but it usually needs some smaller road base over it as it is rough. I think it would be wise to talk with some contractors in your area to see what they suggest. Someone who knows what is available and has experience in your area. Pouring concrete onto soft poorly drained soil can lead to a number of problems.

I am not on Facebook or any other internet sites but when I read that you need a wheelbase of 265" I know that isn't right. We have a wheelbase of about 200". While CAD and other programs are nice, simple math is all that is required. It is a simple fulcrum.

I extended the frame on my HDT 5' and the hitch is at the end. We carry a Subaru Forester on the truck. Our Teton has a relatively heavy tongue and I have carried more tongue weight than that. We have been using this setup for about 14 years on this Volvo and it has been great. It drives very nice and is stable. I have not regretted it at all. The ratio of the GAWR between the front axle and the rear axles is a smidge over 3 to 1. That is what the truck is designed for and I stay within that ratio. I never exceed 32,000 pounds for the trailer and usually less than that. I certainly think you could carry a 2 door Jeep and stay safely within these weight ranges.

We have built pads for our 5er and I am going to build another this summer. For our soil I prefer road base under the entire 5th wheel and out in front of the door. One dump truck load should do it but it may need to be pushed around a little. I also like to put down 6 or more 10 to 12" square pavers in front of the steps or an out door carpet. Sometimes both. Concrete is nice but usually not needed. You may be able to spread the gravel enough for the truck to but if the soil is soft one dump truck load may not be enough. Road base will pack down. You may get stuck on 6" of gravel and each time you drive on it it will move.

Most states don't require a CDL. Our home state doesn't have a noncommercial heavy vehicle drivers license and all that is required is a drivers license, not a CDL. I carry the regulations stating that. Insurance has not been a problem and is reasonable. We have National General. I think owning a HDT is a little more complicated than a MH. We have owned one for about 14 years and we get along OK.

Watts are how to measure total power requirements. Volts x amps = watts. The figures you quote show the 110 volt system as the most efficient.

The weights as posted seem to be well within your trucks capacity. However, are these actual weights and how much do you expect to load into the 5er? Many manufacturers posted weights do not include options or may be for a base unit. Actual weights can vary. I also prefer to use the GVWR as many times that is closer to what the 5er may weigh when loaded. Many suggest leaving 20% and I much prefer that. A fully loaded truck can be a little more difficult to drive and it challenges the drive train.

This is good to know. Others have said good things about the Sailun tires. I have been running XPS Ribs with excellent results but the expense for tires that age out with only minimal wear is maybe not worth it. The Sailun's are less than 1/2 the price. How heavy is your RV?

The following is from Battery University. During the constant-current charge, the battery charges to about 70 percent in 5–8 hours; the remaining 30 percent is filled with the slower topping charge that lasts another 7–10 hours. The topping charge is essential for the well-being of the battery and can be compared to a little rest after a good meal. If continually deprived, the battery will eventually lose the ability to accept a full charge and the performance will decrease due to sulfation

Better yet to hold screws.